re-clearing after paint job.
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Okay, may sound a little crazy but I was wondering if after you finish your BB-CC job and you do a little, well okay a lot of wet sanding to get the paint really smooth. Can I reduce the clear and re-shoot it again. Would this make the clear go on really flat and glossy? I just cant get the clear to lay super flat. I always have to cut and buff it.
I do it anyways because I like the look of it better, but it sure would be easier if the clear was flat to begin with.
It’s not horrible looking but I see other paint jobs that come right out of the booth and there is very little OP.
I usually mix it 4-1-1 like it says to. I am going to use a different clear this time from Tri-City called ‘House OF Color’. The owner already bought it for me.
I restore cars at home and I have been trying different types of materials testing the waters. Trying to find something I like and easy to use with good results.
Thank you for your help.
id rather cut and buff then over reduce and have to deal with runs and sags. 90% of the time i dont cut and buff cuz it just takes too long and the customer never really wants to pay for it, they just expect it to be done free. so to make my life easier i spray two coats of clear and then reduce the 3rd coat a little. it sort of melts everything down smooth in my opinion.
I was going to ask about that. Glad you said something. Do you have to act fast to apply the last coat of clear in any specific amount time or just do your nominal thing? Also, when you say reduce it down, how much are we talking about? If I am mixing it to specs at 4-1-1… what would you make the last reduced mix ratio at?
Thanks for helping me out.
I wouldnt reduce it anymore than 10% Also, you may get better results with a high end clear. I would say that if you sand all the peel out nice and smooth then reclear you will get a much flatter look. To be honest though, you will save money in the long run to use a high end clear and put 3 good coats on then cut and buff rather than doing the job twice.
#1 you should be using a good clear. #2 sanding and reclearing is called flowcoating. alot and most good restoration shops will do this. no matter what clear you use the job will always come out smoother and flatter when you flowcoat. i use spi clears and i will do 4 coats, let dry, block it out with 400 and do another 3 coats using another clear of theirs that is much slower. flowcoating is in between a regular sprayed finish and a sanded and buffed job. i still always sand and buff the flowcoated job as well. the flowcoating just makes for a finish that has alot less urethane wave in it. if your doing nice top notch restoration work then you should be flowcoating and sanding and buffing the final finish everytime. if its collision work then never. you should be able to spray and be done short of taking care of some dust nibs. if your looking for good premium clears and primers at a more resonable price check out spi clears. the specialize in the restoration market. you call them to order and shipping is free to your door.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote] i use spi clears and i will do 4 coats, let dry, block it out with 400…[/quote]
Sorry to butt in Jim, but I see this mentioned a lot. Are you talking ‘regular grade’ 400, or the P400 that we mostly get in the UK (which sounds a bit coarse, even for serious levelling)?
Thanks 🙂Thats what I was wondering… 400 sounds very course. I would have thought to use 800???
Back to what you guys said about reducing the clear and re-shooting it a second time. 10%? So, If I am mixing my first three coats of clear at 4-1-1 then what would that be on the second re-clearing after sanding? 4-2-1???
Hey Jim, after looking at the SPI web site I see that there is several types of clear.
MS, HS, universal, turbo, which one are you talking about using?Thanks.
i use p400 to level out my clear. its definately not too coarse. the idea is to not just knock the orange peel off but to level the slight waves. the finer you go with the paper the less you are going to do that. i know many guys who use p320 to level their clear but i think thats just a little too coarse. as for the spi clears. the universal and ms are the ones i like. read the thread below. i gave a good explanation of spi clears.
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/discussion-forum/refinish/dynatone-anyone-have-experience-here.html
Thanks for clearing that up Jim. Makes sense now you remind me that you’re trying to level more than just the peel.
It makes me think of some of the guys that have worked for me, starting to sand their final filler/glaze coat down with p180 or 240. They might get it smooth, but it ain’t gonna be flat!
Sorry to revive an old thread….
…are you talking about using the p400 wet with a rubber backing block, or using the p400 dry (with perhaps a 6″ DA)?
Cheers,
Simedry. i use psa roll paper on a block. i use whatever block is necessary for the job. usually the hardest block i can find. i buzz over everything with 400 and a da w/soft pad when all done just to get a nice consistant finish. to get the finish really flat you gotta hardblock.
Dang, there goes Jim with his SPI talk again.
ha!! i dont know what your talkin about!! :wak i never said spi anywhere in my post. :lol1 thats 8mos ago!!
i’ve always had good luck with a high end slow drying clear. like ppg’s dcu 2002. it flows out nice, and barely leaves any orange peel.
plus i can mix it 4:1:1.5 for a better flow.
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