Re: Nighthawk Black (B92P) paint job
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Hello from Toronto, ON!
I have a few deep scratches on my rear bumper and I was hoping you guys can help me out.
At the moment, there are two problems that have been troubling me.
1. Colour: The colour on the new paint appears more ‘blue’ than the existing base coat because the paint has pearls. Could the reason for the bluer appearance be the result of the spraying technique when ‘laying’ the pearls?
2. Blending: After spraying the new base and clear coat, the layers created a slightly raised surface above, or sits on top of, the existing clear. Is there any way to ‘blend’ the new paint with the existing clear without having to repaint the entire bumper?
Also, both the base and clear coat was applied using an aerosol can. I was thinking about getting a spray gun, to get better results.
Could anyone suggest a training course located in Toronto, ON for learning the basics auto body painting, as well as, suggest a basic ‘tool kit’ (i.e., a spray gun for base coat, spray for clear, etc) that every painter should have?
Thanks a million.
As far as the colour goes there are several variances of that colour. Also, the coluor could be B92P-4. Could also be the person mixing it, may not have done well or may have mixed too small of a batch to be measured accurately. B92-P often can come out a little bluer, and yes this is due to the pearl, so spraying technique can contribute to this. But with using an aersol you have basically no control.
The base coat most definitely can be blended nicely over the old clear. It is a matter of prepping it properly, spraying technique and possibly using basecoat blender.
July 12, 2010 at 6:09 am #22696when mixing honda colors you have to have the right code. exp…b92p won’t work, as there are other variants. not with just the code but with the plants that they are made in. so b92 should read b92-a,h,l,c. these letters are corrasponding with the plants which do even though they are the same code, they varay the color some. so if all you got is the first three and don’t know what plant it’s made at, check the 11th digit in the vin. that’s the plant it was made at.
also when useing spray paint, don’t count on it to match, and unforunatelly for you, there’s nothing you can do to make the blend smooth.Thanks Ben and lild !
So what should I do now?
Yes! The guys at the paint shop said that P92P had a few variances and so I give them my VIN number to look up. They had a colour match system, where they take a picture of a 2×2″ panel but they took my VIN number to brew up my current can. Should I go back and ask them to make a can based on the colour matching system? Or maybe, ask them to mix a can with less pearls because like you mentioned, there’s no control from aerosol cans?
Hindsight is 20/20, but a better alternative would have been to work on ‘test’ panels from the scrap yard to build some technique and confidence. Also, how much would it cost to get started in spraying with a gun? It sounds like it would cost a pretty penny with all the paints, guns, etc.
I have been reading the articles in the Paint and Refinish section on the Refinish Network. Some really fantastic information!! An article that outlined the proper techniques for bending. And like Ben said, I need to work more on the ‘bending’ technique. And the pearls! The article about pearls mentioned that a wet coat (low pressure) would ‘hide’ the pearls more. When I sprayed over the repair area, I was going over light coats, and trying not to build a thick layer because I was hoping to blend the new paint into the existing paint. Would that be one of the reasons for the bluish effect? Is there any way around to getting the pearls to match?
Hoping to post some pictures of ‘the’ patch, as soon as possible, to get more feedback.
Thanks a million.
July 12, 2010 at 7:33 am #22699In my opinion, you should ask yourself how much painting you will be doing in the future. If its a fair amount I would look at getting a gun. If not…I would try to use a friends gun to spray your bumper.
As far as getting the color to match… I would take the car down to the store you are getting you paint from and match it up with one of their color chips. I dont like to go by VIN. Its not a garuntee that its a match. I have never had any problems with this color, most cases it looks black and alot of the times people dont even know there is some pearl in it. 😉July 12, 2010 at 3:33 pm #22702If you are not going to be doing much painting in the future the cost of the equipment will not offset your savings. If this is a new hobby it will cost some money to get equipped.
If you need a shop Jimmo is in Ontario. He is the site owner. Not sure how close to you but if you need a good shop to take it to I would contact him.
If you want to tackle yourself take some time and do some reading. It will help in the long run. That is an easy color to blend you just need to get a good variant picked for it. There are alot of videos on the sites Youtube about blending that will help you also.
This is actually the color of my Honda accord and for that reason this is the color that I have shot the most. I have had fantastic results with DBC as a butt match for my car. I had gotten both bumpers painted before without blending and it is dead on. Only in the sun and when the car is buffed can you really see the blue pearl.
Alright so here we go.
I gotta say this is a pretty awesome website for newbie’s, like me. Gives us a chance to rub shoulders with the high rollers. =)
So I have attached a picture of the disaster that I was explaining. But first, let back back track a bit. I have painted over this bumper more than once. Each time, I would take off the clear and base coat with 1500 – 2000 grit so I just catch a bit of the existing clear. The picture was what happened the first time I spray with Dupli-colour. The results are somewhat distorted because the base was wet sanded before the clear coat went on. The wet sanding actually took off a lot of the ‘blackness’ leaving it looking like a blue finish. Does anybody wetland the base coat? Or is that the first pitfall of newbie’s?
I will post a picture of the current ‘condition’ of the bumper and hopefully an experienced eye would be able to catch my blending problem.
It was quite frustrating and bothersome, at some point, because the effect went in but the results wasn’t happening. But hearing from the pros on this forum and reading the articles from Jimmo really helped lighten up my ‘project’.
But going back to the B92P paint. I think the guys at the paint shop mixed up a batch using DuPont because the name is written all over the aerosol can. I want to try the DCS (Deltron base coat) that Nexson suggested, and wondering if it is safe to assume that it doesn’t come in a can? Does paint for the spray gun always come in those gigantic cans? Or can a request be put in to have the can filled a quarter or halfway depending the job?
How much does paint with pearls typically cost? I don’t think the guys at the paint shop are charging too much for a can but for a can of B92P it cost around $45 CDN and a week to mix up. I think I am going to need at least another can because well, you guys will see, once the picture of the current state is posted.
So if I have no choice but get rid of the current paint job and at square one again, is there any other way to get it down to the existing clear without so much elbow grease?
Thanks a million.
July 13, 2010 at 7:22 am #22725If you are wanting to start completly over…you could try to wipe off the rattle can paint with some thinner. Im sure its not catalized. If you cant wipe it off I would just sand it down with some 600, rebase then clear the whole bumper.
[b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]If you are wanting to start completly over…you could try to wipe off the rattle can paint with some thinner. Im sure its not catalized. If you cant wipe it off I would just sand it down with some 600, rebase then clear the whole bumper.[/quote]I agree, that is some good advice. May also save some headaches as the base you apply late could wrinkle the un-catalyzed clear that is on there now.
Thanks guys!
Driving around with this patch ain’t so pretty but I’ll go grab some thinner to wipe it off and work on the ‘blending’.
The clear I used doesn’t need an activator or hardner, so is it safe to say that it is a uncatalyzed clear? On that note, thinner doesn’t wrinkle catalyzed clears?
Thanks a million.
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