s2000 Crack Repair
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- This topic has 47 replies, 20 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 8 months ago by Pak.
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S2000 had a cracked that needed to be repaired. The bumper buckled up a little, so I took some heat to it to knock it down, then some filler to smooth it out.
I will paint it this weekend. And don’t get on me about not using the welder bondo!
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/3rd%20album/IMG_2826.jpg[/IMG]March 2, 2011 at 7:20 am #28976not mention, you should of made a v grove in the repair area. and how many times did you put mud on that thing?
March 2, 2011 at 4:17 pm #28983I thought it looked great ol Nex buddy…there just splitting hairs, sure it will hold up just fine.
March 2, 2011 at 4:31 pm #28984[quote=”lild” post=18840]not mention, you should of made a v grove in the repair area. and how many times did you put mud on that thing?[/quote]
I thought v grooving is a no no on these type repairs, the front side should be sanded to a dish shape vs. a v groove.
March 2, 2011 at 8:02 pm #28987I see a lot of people are fans of the plastic welder, we actually just picked one up and its been working great. I’d still be interested to see strength comparisons, my assumption would be epoxy to be stronger as I presume the rods are just a thermoplastic compared to the thermosetting epoxy. I don’t really know the ins and outs of that technology tho.
For epoxy repairs I believe a very gradual taper is prefered to the V-grove.I’ve seen several fella’s skip that and just hit it with 80 and slapped the epoxy to er without problems. Not exactly how I’d do it but what a ya gonna do.
some plastics just won’t weld worth a crap and some weld like butter …. once welded front and back with extra build or a backing plate welded is a super way to repair SOME plastics , and when looking for the proper rod for the job I steal a little of the edge some where or of a old bumper of the same plastic. … plastic welding some form of rebar into the back side repair works great too. (a fine metal mesh, some pieces of mig wire, staples, etc.)
Inner fender plastic welds like molding putty, can build any thing out of it :kofee
Now all we have to do is to get you to quit using rigid filers on flexible bumper covers.. You really need to get away from what looks like dura-glass and evercoat glaze putty to me.. They make a glazing putty for bumper or fusor has a glaze that is red works good and sands easy.
March 2, 2011 at 9:43 pm #28994[quote=”Nexson” post=18846]not to mention you should of been here holding my hand.[/quote]
:lol1Looks good Brian. I do my plastic repairs in a similar manner and have never have a comeback. It looks like you did a solid repair. Jimmo and Barry make a good point with the taper but it looks like you left a nice little gap for the epoxy to get into the repair and bond without distorting the shape of the bumper. good job bro. :dnc
Did the customer like it?
March 2, 2011 at 10:55 pm #28998[quote=”Stone” post=18853]some plastics just won’t weld worth a crap and some weld like butter …. once welded front and back with extra build or a backing plate welded is a super way to repair SOME plastics , and when looking for the proper rod for the job I steal a little of the edge some where or of a old bumper of the same plastic. … plastic welding some form of rebar into the back side repair works great too. (a fine metal mesh, some pieces of mig wire, staples, etc.) [/quote]
This.
I’ll hot weld where possible, but some plastics simply won’t have it, so I’ll use the Lord Fusor system.
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