Suggestions on tape for tail lights.
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Hope everyone is doing well.
I have been doing quite a few tail lights for the Subaru wrx. They come clear and the customers have been wanting them tinted red and then smoked. The paint has been coming out very nice. There is a section on each light that is masked off to reserve a clear section for the reverse light and turn signal. From time to time once I pull the tape off and smoked over it, there is a faint line where the tape edge was. To the naked eye there doesn’t seem to be any residue left by the tape. Can anyone recommended a tape that won’t leave any marks. Since the paint is translucent it will show any areas where the paint did not adhere evenly.
Was just using some rustoleum tape and started to notice a trend.
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/last/null_zpsc8df6179.jpg[/IMG]The tape is pulled here and ready for tint. When the tint goes over the clear section there is at times a very faint line in the clear smoked section
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/last/7809A4A9-5B7B-4A9C-A197-A562FF9938C4-3193-0000015CEDEE7973.jpg[/IMG]But it is very hard to catch. Only at certain angles. Can’t be seen in this pic.
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/last/null_zps98cbe0cf.jpg[/IMG]Any suggestions would be great!
Looks good nex,try some fineline followed by some god automotive masking tape.American blue is pretty good and cheap.
Thanks jay. I am currently using the fine line around the edges works really well if you put it down for good after a couple tries otherwise I notice it likes to walk in a little around the tight edges. I will look into the tape you suggested. Not too concerned with the price point.
The new 3m purple fine line corners really well,might want to try that.If price is not a big deal just use a good automotive tape.You could also give the edge a quick scuff after its unmasked before clear with some 400-600 foam backed paper like norton .
[quote=”Nexson” post=33357]Thanks jay. I am currently using the fine line around the edges works really well if you put it down for good after a couple tries otherwise I notice it likes to walk in a little around the tight edges. I will look into the tape you suggested. Not too concerned with the price point.[/quote]
Which fine line are you using? What size (width) of fine line?
One trick that may help, just before you put your tape onto the part, run your finger over the sticky side quickly to slightly dull the adhesive. This will prevent transfer onto the part.
[quote=”Ben” post=33360][quote=”Nexson” post=33357]Thanks jay. I am currently using the fine line around the edges works really well if you put it down for good after a couple tries otherwise I notice it likes to walk in a little around the tight edges. I will look into the tape you suggested. Not too concerned with the price point.[/quote]
Which fine line are you using? What size (width) of fine line?
One trick that may help, just before you put your tape onto the part, run your finger over the sticky side quickly to slightly dull the adhesive. This will prevent transfer onto the part.[/quote]
But wouldn’t that make the corners more prone to lifting :stoned
nice work nex, they look better in red
I have been using the 3m blue 1/8 fine line, didn’t know there was a purple. It loses its grip after trying to pick it up and reapply after 2 times. I honestly never thought of rescuffing the area gently Jay. I suppose that would help break of the residue left by any tape, good tip.
I will check out what my jobber has and see if they have the american blue, if not should the ol’ 3m green tape work fine?
And yes Mo, alot better, can be tricky though if you don’t get it perfect the first time. You would have to sand it all back down to plastic.
I meant to knock down the base coat edge before clear,don’t scuff the glue :p If you change to the purple that will cure the adhessive transfer.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=33377]I meant to knock down the base coat edge before clear,don’t scuff the glue :p If you change to the purple that will cure the adhessive transfer.[/quote]Gotcha! Let me look into it and see if they make some 3/4” in the purple, I think that would be the solution as you suggested.
Make a pattern and bring it to a sign shop. Have them cut you a supply of Gerbermask. Stick the mask on and eliminate the need to fineline and mask the middle. You can only play with fineline so much before it fails to perform properly on radii. If you do flames or graphics this cannot be allowed to occur. I use purple.
You know this is actually a pretty good idea. It would make up in time what it would cost. It takes quite a while to get it perfect. Can’t seem to find the purple fine line. Can I trouble anyone for a link? Currently using the dark blue tape.
[quote=”Nexson” post=33382]You know this is actually a pretty good idea. It would make up in time what it would cost. It takes quite a while to get it perfect. Can’t seem to find the purple fine line. Can I trouble anyone for a link? Currently using the dark blue tape.[/quote]
Nex, All you have to do to make the pattern I mentioned in draw it on paper. They’ll refine it with the computer prior to cutting. Bring a light with you if you want. Most sign shops do this type of work all the time. The cost will be minimal.3M 471+06405 is 1/4 purple vinyl tape.
3m has a new tape out its green made out of rice paper and is prefect not to sticky doesn’t leave residue corners great doesnt start to roll up either on corners like the blue
think its was made has a fineline for waterborn paint but always works with solvent
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