Trunk lid (newbie!)
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Making my first foray into the world of bodywork. I`m a mechanic on most days but bodywork I tend to take it elsewhere and let someone else figure it all out.
However I decided to do a little rust prevention on the trunk lid of the wifes old Cavalier. Removed all the rust, treated the area, applied some bondo and used some rattle can primer.
This where I stopped, getting a good paint job from a rattle can is always going to be a challenge. I figured surely if I can change a head gasket I can learn to spray paint and I`m pretty good at learning something new.
I got myself a quality gravity fed gun the other day. The book that came with it was very lacking in giving some idea of the controls.
I understand the fan pattern and paint control, but the air control is confusing. The compressed air outlets in the shop at work all have their own regulators, so for example I set the regulator going to my gun at around 40psi (my gun has a max 50psi), what is the air control on the gun for, is this for quick control the air intake and saves having to reach for the regulator?
On the subject of painting itself. The area I had repaired is a small area of the trunk, the rest of the paint is in good shape. I was hoping to keep the repaired area primed then scuff the rest of the trunk (with a scotch pad?) and top of quarter panels (for blending), clean up with wax/grease remover, use tack cloth then apply the base > clear.
Can I just use a rattle can sandable primer over the repaired area, would a base coat be ok over this? I understand most rattle cans are lacquer and urethane based primers? I just didn`t want to buy a large amount of urethane primer, large tip for the gun just to shoot a tiny area. Obviously the primer would need sanding prior to shooting base.
I will in time probably buy a second gun for primer only, but that depends how much I enjoy this new adventure!!!
Well for starters I would ditch the rattle can primer. You can go somewhere like Napa and get a quart of CP440 for pretty cheap.
You have the right idea as far as keeping the primer small and scuffing the rest for a blend. I prefer to sand the blend area then scuff but it is personal choice. Just remember NO shiny spots.
As far as gun PSI get a gauge at the gun and set it for the lowest psi that will atomize well. For primer start at 15-20 and move up from there. If it is a cheapo gun go for like 20-25 for base and 25-30 for clear. Don’t be as concerned with what psi just be concerned about the finish your getting.
Would urethane primer if that`s what it is called, I assume it would need reducing?
If my local store doesn`t have the CP440 what kind of primer should I be looking for? In the rattle can range there is a bunch of different primers, but for primers for the gun I have no idea!
You just need a urethane primer.
How long can the primer remain before I shoot the base? Can I leave it a few days (time constraints as usual!). The vehicle would remain in the shop as I appreciate primer is quite porous or did I get that wrong?
My new gun has a 1.4 tip which I guess is a good average for base and clear. For primers would a 1.8 or bigger be better?
Thanks again.
check the TDS (technical data sheet) for your max flash time …. what primer are you talking about ? :welc
example > http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/pds/martin/mspds.pdf
B)
Some good information thank you. Already learned a lot in the last hour.
So do most base and clears require an activator too or just reducer? I would be painting in a shop which would be around 20C/68F.
Wow, those data sheets are an enormous help.
[b]maritimesbob wrote:[/b]
[quote]Some good information thank you. Already learned a lot in the last hour.So do most base and clears require an activator too or just reducer? I would be painting in a shop which would be around 20C/68F.
Wow, those data sheets are an enormous help.[/quote]
just googled them 😉 :pcorn:
yeah most all clears and primers need activators, but not all [i]need[/i] reducers, just check the tech sheet or ask the paint store. not all solvent paint needs activator but they need to be reduced. just remember, spraying activated(2k) materials release isocyanates so use a good respirator. like ryan said forget the rattle can or youll get outlines of the repair area after you paint and clear it all. looks like crap after you put in all that work.
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