UV Primer
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UV Primer[/b][/u]I wanted to do a writeup on UV primer as I don’t hear many people talk about them. Its my absolute favorite type of primer to use and wanted to show some pictures and information for the people who don’t get the opportunity to see the stuff.
First of all for those who don’t know anything about it, its sprayed as if its a 1k primer that is always ready for use (no mixing required). Anything you don’t use you can pour back so theirs no waste. Its hardened from the ultra violet rays (UV-A) and displays the same properties as a 2K primer.
Here is a picture of the glasurit UV primer after its been applied. You’ll notice that its very transparent. The reason for it is to allow the UV rays to penetrate all the way through the primer and fully cure it. This was sprayed with a 1.5 tip which is on the high end for this stuff, a 1.0 is sufficient. 2 coats with a 1.5 is like 4 coats of a regular high build, I really only needed 1 here but I plan on doing a lot of blocking (its hard to find a good bodyman).
[url=http://img403.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00679em0.jpg][img]http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/3619/dsc00679em0.th.jpg[/img][/url]
After priming its allowed to flash and then it goes out into the sun. The UV rays cause a chemical reaction which hardens the primer. This doesn’t just dry it like a traditional 2k primer, it fully cures it which translates into no shrinking!
The curing time is 5-20 minutes depending on the UV intensity, then its ready to sand.
(less than 5 minutes cure with a UV lamp)[url=http://img91.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00685in3.jpg][img]http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/9544/dsc00685in3.th.jpg[/img][/url]
The sandability of this primer is second to none. It just flys off with some 320. In this case i need to give it a really good blocking because i’ve got too much on. Being transparent it can be a bit tougher to tell. This stuff builds like crazy, you always have to block the edge of it to ensure its not high.
(You should also try and use a guide coat since its transparent)[url=http://img91.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00686rb5.jpg][img]http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/9890/dsc00686rb5.th.jpg[/img][/url]
After watersanding it with some 500 I’m good to go, you can dry sand it if you prefer, either way its all good. Here it is cleaned up and ready to go.
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Its a major benefit for guys priming in not exactly state of the art prep stalls (garage’s maybe) because its isocyanate free. The only slight downside to it is because of its easy sandability its very dusty. So watersand or wear a mask.
Another nice feature about is its direct to metal also.It does cost more than your regular urethane primers, but you also need much less & you have zero wasted product.
I know BASF supplies this in the RM & Glasurit line. Dupont and PPG have it also, I’ve used the Dupont one and its excellent also, the only downside is its only available in an aerosol. UV primers provide superior holdout and adhesion, If you haven’t tried them yet you could be missing out.
pretty cool now ya need ta try that uv bondo that i use ta see at wal mart;)
looks good there jimmo. i always wanted to try the uv primer but for 1500 for a lamp I havn’t wanted to try it that bad:( do you seal all the spots you do with the uv. I could se that being a problem on small repairs. I was never a fan of spot sealing. especially on metallics
you don’t need to seal it, just think of it like normal primer….. i don’t currently have a lamp, just use the UV light from the sun.
This primer is quick. We have been using it by the quart from BASF, and spraycan from PPG & BASF.
We have two lamps that we use, or drive the vehicle outside in the sun for about 5-10 min and you are feady to go!
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