Will welding warp this panel?
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Can I weld these holes up without warping the metal???????
Theres a lot of holes from who ever did the original work on this quarter ruffing it out with a slid hammer and a stud gun.I used a stud gun myself PLUS a lot of hammer and dolly work, It looks even better as I have been working on even more since these were taken.
My fear is if I weld up the holes the panel will warp out.
[img]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t44/Marvinator/Plymouth/redroadrunner47-Copy2.jpg[/img][img]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t44/Marvinator/Plymouth/redroadrunner46-Copy.jpg[/img]
Not if you do it right, it will actually strengthen it.
What are you welding with?If you do a cool mig weld (Lowest settings you can do and still achieve a proper weld, with only mere seconds per weld) And you stop and let it cool between holes (Or leap frog around to holes that are at a distance) you’ll be fine.
You can also use some welding putty to control where the heat goes just as extra insurance.Although welding can warp stuff to shit, it can also prevent it from happening by strengthening the surrounding metal.
For instance if something is oil canning like a son of a bitch, stitch a X into it, and it won’t move any more.One thing I would say though, is I’m seeing some pitting in your metal.
If those holes are oxidized and thin surrounding them, you’ll have a hell of a time not burning through.
You can usually aid this with stacking, but you have to be extremely careful. Sometimes you’re just better off patching or replacing.I’m not much of a welder myself, but I have seen a guy using a piece of flattened down copper pipe behind stuff like that.
He worked cool and quick as mentioned, but the copper on the back helped to wick some of the heat away, and also gave the weld something to puddle into without falling through.
Good tip on the oilcan problem RatStang :rock
Absolutely you can do it without warping the metal. I would be forewarned as the two gentlemen have advised, be concerned about the pits in the metal / corrosion and I would definitely use a “heat sink” if you can get it behind the steel. A piece copper or aluminum should bode well and since they are dissimilar metals, the will not be welded together with the steel but merely absorb heat from the weld.
Outside of that enjoy, move the welds around as far apart as possible, take your time and have fun.
I would weld it up with kitty hair :blink:
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=20342]I would weld it up with kitty hair :blink:[/quote]
:agreeLooks like a good panel to use some lead on
[quote=”painter123″ post=20346]Looks like a good panel to use some lead on[/quote]
If it were too thin/pitted to weld, that would be my next choice.
But the fiberglass filler isn’t too bad, you should be able to coat the inside of the 1/4 where the filler will ooze through.
A cool little trick to close up a hole is to weld a stud for pulling where the hole is. Keep on the trigger for a second or two extra so the pin welds onto the panel pretty good. Let it cool for a second and take a pair of side cutters and snip the stud off. Use a grinder to flatten it out and you will have no more hole. I would venture to say this method would be alot safer and less intrusive than trying to mig weld all the holes up, unless your real good with a mig, I’m not! :whistle:
Hi guys
Thanks for all the opinionsTheres is no Rust to speak of on this car dont get me wrong yes there’s a couple spots that have LIGHT surface corrosion.
But for the 99% of this car its Rust free! Its like its the 70’s again with this car!
Its been in a Garage all its life till I got it evidently.It’s had one repaint plus the quarter repairs.
In all fairness it looks like the repaint was done when they did all the body repairs too the quarters.So any way Im really not worried about any corrosion in any of my welds IF I weld.
Im more worried that the panel will start shrinking and warping the panel.Ryan
I could not in good conscious leave dissimilar metals together filling up my panel.
Good idea but I just couldnt do that.Painter123
I wish I knew how to do Lead. Some day I got to play with that stuff.Kitty hair
Well thats how I was going to do it getting behind the panel is easy enough.
Even if I do weld it I would seal the welds with Kitty hair any ways especialy the back side.Weld them up – they will warp but control the warping with quenching the area. Jump around when filling with weld and use the backing plate (I use a piece of 3/4 copper tube that I’ve flattened on one end for a heat sink/backer). If you can get to the back side, then you can hand shrink/stretch as required and get it smoothed out. I’ve also had a lot of luck with a shrinking disk over the years – slow but it works.
What is it? I mean kitty hair?
[quote=”Roman” post=21193]What is it? I mean kitty hair?[/quote]
glass fibre filler
Kitty Hair®
Best known for its bridging capabilities in rebudiling shattered fiberglass and for reinforcing torn or rusted areas of sheet metal. Formulated with long strands of chopped fiberglass. Double the strength of standard fillers. Waterproof. Rustproof. Can be used with or without fiberglass cloth or mat. Should be finished with Rage® and/or Metal Glaze®. Blue cream hardener included.this was pulled from the Evercoat website fastest way for us to explain it. kitty hair is a trademark name used by Evercoat . there are other names like USC uses Duraglass same type of stuff
kinda like Kleenex is facial tissue , but its just one company, but we all call Puffs or what ever brand we have in the house kleenex even tho its facial tissue :deadhorse
what is kitty hair ? and mentioned earlier about stitching an X when serious oil canning occurs, would you stitch the x while the metal is depressed down or while it is popped out? and would you grind the x away afterwards or wipe filler right over it?
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