Thomas Robertson

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  • July 30, 2014 at 9:20 pm #47069

    Like you I fear the only thing to do is strip. I just tried washing with lacquer thinner and no luck. I believe before I begin to strip I will try to flatten out with 220 wet sandpaper. If I can accomplish that I am going to try and apply several coats of water based primer to act as a blocker. Worth a shop anyway.

    July 22, 2014 at 3:01 pm #47024

    You exactly correct. The adjuster agreed with me and told the customer I was not doing anything wrong and should be allowed ample time to complete the work. He told me the car will be on time as long as it is delivered within the 7 business days. The customer called sheepishly and asked when her car would be ready.

    March 20, 2013 at 3:25 am #42248

    I have a UTEC system. Thanks for the info. I will call the UTEC support line and they should be able to cross reference with the information you provided.

    March 5, 2013 at 3:04 am #41805

    Some may disagree with me but this works for me. Instead of vinyl dye (expensive and not all that good) I usually spay a urethane base with a little urethane hardner added to the base. It dries well and seems to last as long as the dye. A little adhesion promoter never hurts.

    December 7, 2012 at 7:04 pm #39727

    Products like Armorall and WD 40 are difinately are a painters nightmare. Personally, I do not allow either product in my shop. There are many effective degreasers on the market but an old painter once turned me on to an inexpensive product that I have found to do better than any. It is purchased locally in “Dollar” or “Dollar General” stores and is found in the cleaning product section. It is called “Awesome” and can be purchased for around $1.00 for a 16 oz spray bottle. Refills are also available. Might want to give it a try and wipe all areas adjacent to rubbers and trim where dressings may have been used. I also use it to clean all jams prior to paint.

    October 6, 2011 at 1:25 pm #33404

    This can be a very frustrating problem and I agree that you need to allow time to dry before re-coating. Personally I like to use a water based primer/sealer as a blocker to prevent this from happening. It is relatively inexpensive and always works

    August 21, 2011 at 4:18 am #32578

    That is a possibility. The gun is a Devilbiss Mellinium that I have used for months but this is the first job I have sprayed since getting it back from being rebuilt. I did not reconfirm the settings. I also have a new Sharpe regulator that is set at 25lbs as recommended by Devilbiss. I used a different gun to spray the sealer and had no problem so maybe this could be the issue. The only problem with that theory is that in my experience “air entrapment” issues can usually be taken care of by sanding. After sanding with 1000 grit I am still left with craters.

    July 9, 2011 at 11:39 pm #31617

    This is it exactly. It was on the can I originally was given as 0047. My UTEC system does not show a formula for this code but at least now I can get it elsewhere. thanks

    June 19, 2010 at 4:40 pm #21966

    Good point. I have always tried to be pretty understanding and have paid for the screw ups myself. Unfortunately that has led to an attitude of not caring. I am going to have to begin some type accountability for the redos and if that does not work find someone with a better work ethic

    May 22, 2010 at 7:37 pm #21465

    Dont understand. Wont that scratch the lenses. How should I go about this

    May 19, 2010 at 9:51 pm #21359

    The blisters were about the size of your thumb. I have sanded the area and reprimed with several coats of 2k. I am gonna let it dry troughly then block reprime, seal and repaint. Does this sound like the way to go?

    May 19, 2010 at 8:34 pm #21356

    I have already removed the blistered paint. The blistering was in the paint and primer only. None of the filler was affected.

    April 2, 2010 at 1:11 pm #20507

    Good luck, I have been trying to comply. I have gotten certified, and even bought a new booth from Tools USA ($7000+) only to find out from the county when applying for permit to put the booth together that I am not zoned commercial. They tell me I have to shut down for 6 month to go thru the rezoning process. Whats next?

    April 2, 2010 at 1:05 pm #20506

    Great tip on the Harbor Freight washer. Assuming it meets requirements, $99 is not a bad price to keep the inspectors off my back

    January 20, 2010 at 1:06 am #18790

    Part of the bumper assy is actually painted the same color of the vehicle but their is a lower part of the cover is painted a grey. This is usually a standard color for their bumper covers on that style of Expedition. I have bought rattle cans in the past from my jobber and asked for Ford Bumper Grey, but they no longer stock them. This particular shade of grey may change from model to model but this will be them same on every 03 Expedition that has grey trim on its bumper covers.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 28 total)