Andy Taylor
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Very nice work!
[quote=”nick1″ post=28094]Im no electrician, but grounding to a gas line might not be the best idea. Just my thoughts.[/quote]
I’m no electrician either, but my wife is in the electrical testing and safety business
As long as the other end of that steel pipe is grounded (which bill says it is) then it’s all good 🙂
Over here in the UK all of our houses HAVE to be grounded to incoming gas and water lines BY LAW. Because of this I spent days crawling around under my house running 10mm² cable to connect everything together 😆
[quote=”Ben” post=27998]According to the SATA website it is :huh:[/quote]
I know we can still get the 3000 here in the UK. It seems to be marketed as a kind of budget alternative for those that can’t quite stretch to a 4K. They’ve re-branded it slightly by anodising it in blue.
That PF 131 is probably the same as the DeBeer 8-145 primer that I used to use. They have the same parent company and many Octoral and DeBeer products are exactly the same, just in a different tin! A friend of mine bought some PF131 recently and it looks / smells / applies identical.
It will do the job just fine for you, but bear in mind that whilst it’s called “grey”, it’s actually a very light grey, more of an off white really. I used to darken it a little for silvers but I guess it would be ok just as it is.
Did you get my email mate?
I sent it Saturday evening my time, which would have been early Sunday to you I think.
Welcome mate.
There’s certainly loads to learn about this job, but at least you’re in the right place 😉
Have you done anything like this before? Or have you jumped straight into smart from outside the trade? Chipsaway by any chance, or a similar franchise?
I’ve painted that colour in DeBeer 900 series many times. Apparently it has a 90% failure rate since it’s effectively a 4 stage with their scheme so don’t feel too bad, but I’ve always managed to be successful and have even done it edge to edge a few times with no problems 😉
The recommended undercoat is GS901 (black), but I always use a black primer instead to save one step in the booth. The red pearl mid coat (1368) covers really badly and you’ll need several coats of it. I’ve used anything up to 6! Then drop coat it with the usual low pressure / 18″ or more distance method and blend out as required.
I then put on two full wet coats of the tinted clear (709), blending as required.
Give that lot PLENTY of time to dry. I tended to put it on a bake cycle for 10 minutes using the blowers as well. With so much base going on you need to be really sure it’s fully dry all the way through.
After letting it cool for a bit, throw on some clear and you’re golden 🙂
If I had to guess, it may be the dark grey undercoat that’s throwing you out. It really does need to be black.
EDIT: And you must get 100% coverage with the pearl coat (1368) The tinted clear top coat (a bit like a candy) doesn’t really do much at all as you’ve found.
And there are different kinds of thread for differing purposes. 1/4″ BSP is a straight thread, whereas 1/4″ BSPT is tapered and does a better job of sealing without tape.
As said, try using more tape. Wind it in the direction of the thread and go around at least 6 times if it’s a non-tapered thread. If it still leaks, go round another few times.
Crumbs, you really are serious!
I haven’t been able to get on the internet at home for a few days but the wife has been researching. Whilst it’s an amazing offer and opportunity, clearly it’s a massive step for me and the family to just up sticks and move over 4000 miles away from our current life. Not something we could take lightly or do in a hurry, which might not be any good for you if you’re looking for help soon.
It would be crazy of me to turn down the chance of living and working in such a place though. It’s beautiful, if a bit remote!
If you’d consider it as more of a longer term plan then there’s a million and one questions I’d have to ask before making any kind of commitment. How do you keep so busy in such a small city for one thing? What’s the pay rate / cost of living balance like over there? What hoops would I have to jump through to get a work visa? Any jobs for the wife? That kind of thing.
We could move this discussion to email if you’d prefer 🙂
I’d better not tell the wife anything. She’ll think you’re being serious and have me looking for schools and property before I know it! 😆
Thanks guys.
I’d be over your side like a shot if I could persuade the wife to emigrate 😆
With the variety of work you do Nelson it would be my dream job!
As ding says, a pint (1/2 litre in our money 😆 ) will be plenty.
Be aware that shadow blue is best over a very dark substrate. Personally I always use a black primer, or throw on a quick coat of whatever black base I have lying around first. You should easily cover it with 1/2L though, over black I’d be buying half that, but then I’m miserly with the paint!!!
Don’t use the speedy thinner if you can help it. Use the slowest thinner you can for the temperature you’re spraying in. That fast thinner will do the job (00 740 at a guess?), but the base will lay down better and blend out easier with the next slowest one (00 741 I think).
Thanks for the support guys 🙂
Jason – yes I’ve thought about the whole rep / technical training side and I’d like to give that a shot if an opportunity came along.
Hi case,
I’m just down the road in Sheffield.
Loving the dancing 😆 Adds a nice bit of humour to the video. Although if I were you I’d stick with a career in painting :p
Adding to what protek says above – whilst I’ve never used onyx I do tend to ramp the heat up a bit in between coats to help the water base flash off faster when I’m doing a several panel job. I suppose it depend how quick your booth reacts, but I’ve found ramping it up from 25°C to 35°C (~ 77f – 95f) really helps, especially on those bigger jobs where you can’t get full coverage with the blowers and have to keep moving them around. Then drop it back down when you’re ready for your next coat.