Andy Taylor
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I’m not much of a welder myself, but I have seen a guy using a piece of flattened down copper pipe behind stuff like that.
He worked cool and quick as mentioned, but the copper on the back helped to wick some of the heat away, and also gave the weld something to puddle into without falling through.
Good tip on the oilcan problem RatStang :rock
I think the answer you’ll get from most around here is that it would have been better to clear the whole door. That method would certainly give you a more long lasting repair, and avoid the overspray issue you have.
It may still be an option to consider, even now. Scuffing the whole panel and applying some more clear may be a lot safer than trying to sand and polish back that overspray, as you may end up with an edge all the way around the repair.
For a true local repair the pressure would need to have been kept low to keep the overspray to a minimum, then whatever did remain should be ‘melted in’ with a fade out blender.
Sorry it sounds like such bad news, but I’d rather tell you straight :blink:
Nice one Nick :rock
Have you spent endless hours planning the interior layout to the last detail?
I have, and I’ve no chance of ever getting a place of my own that big :rofl
Keep us updated with progress, especially if there are new shiny things being fitted!
I think you’ve answered your own question really – three times is more than a coincidence 😉
But yes, a large drop in temperature can make a great difference, hence why paint manufacturers make different reducers/thinners for different temp ranges.
Imagine you’re putting the clear on, and the temp suddenly drops part way through. The atomised droplets coming from your gun will now be a lot “wetter” as the solvents in them won’t have evaporated as much in their journey from gun to panel. Then once they hit the panel, the solvents will take longer to flash, leaving the film of clear wetter for longer, so it will flow much more, making it more prone to sagging and running. All you can do in such a situation is compensate by putting less on, either by moving your arm faster or pulling away a little and reducing overlaps. Neither is ideal though, and keeping a roughly even temperature throughout the job is really a priority. Spraying at a low temp without the burner is probably better than having it cut off part way through.
Which DeBeer clear are you using by the way? And which hardener & reducer?
Very nice mate!
Yeah, that’ll be the water and alcohol in the thinner.
I haven’t tried drinking it yet 😆
[quote=”turbo t” post=19963]nothing yet mate?[/quote]
Awesome.
I typed out a long detailed reply, and the forum just seemed to eat it :compsmash
I’ll try again….
Tommy – did you get my reply to your PM?
Haven’t quite worked the PM system out on here yet – it seems needlessly complicated to me :deadhorse :rofl
The only similar problem I’ve experienced is when working with one guy that all of a sudden started to get fisheyes in his job, with a small white flake in the centre. Turns out his new under arm deodorant with turning to powder and running down the inside of his sleeve into the paint 😆
Putting on a proper painting suit with elasticated cuffs cured the problem straight off.
[quote=”Canuck” post=19900] Why do you prefer water to solvent (To Andy)? [/quote]
As lild says, WB can be made to dry even quicker than solvent base, without the worries of solvent entrapment. And while it depends a little on the brand, as a general rule it’s actually easier to get a great finish out of WB, and I also feel it’s a little more forgiving if your technique isn’t quite up to scratch.And you’re right about the drying. You don’t need to blast the base with air to get it dry (although it dries even faster that way once you’ve let it flash a little 😉 ), but you simply need to move the saturated boundary layer of air that’s over the panel so that evaporation can continue. In a booth with good airflow (particularly a downdraft) you tend to find blowers aren’t a necessity as the natural air flow does the work. Again though, adding turbulence with either hand held blowers, fans, or whatever, speeds the drying process even further.
Occasionally I use a very similar spec compressor with my LHP80 and it does the job perfectly. It hardly runs at all, which is ideal as the air doesn’t get too hot, so you suffer less from water in it (Compressed Air Humidity, CAH).
Within reason, there’s no such thing as a compressor that’s too big. The gun will just draw what it needs 😉
[quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=19918]
I worked with a pretty good painter a few years ago, as a painter he painted very fast, but he also painted very close to the panel a lot closer than i do that was why his arm used to move about twice the peed of mine lol.As a result he on occasion used to get mottles.
This was due to the fact the gun was to close to the panel and he was not getting full use of the fan pattern.[/quote]
That sounds a lot like me!I have to force myself to go a little slower and further back with base, otherwise I too can get mottles.
This is about the biggest job I’ve painted in WB in a garage, and it turned out fine.
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Corolla/P1000554Large.jpg[/IMG]
Again it has to be said – air movement is the key, but not so much that it blows the dust around.
For my “after hours” work, I’ve actually started using a salon style hair dryer for the basecoat. They give lots and lots of air movement and a bit of heat. Perfect for drying water borne base. Large areas take a while, but 1-2 panel jobs can be dried nearly as quick as they can in my booth.
Tommy – Once you’ve got used to water, you won’t want to go back to solvent!
[quote=”ding” post=19854]Weld em shut if its metal ;)[/quote]
Yep, I’d weld them up too.
It can be just as quick as as any other method, and you know for sure it isn’t going to sink 😉
Thanks for the comments guys.
[quote=”dcturcotte” post=19812]That’s some nice work andy. Did you end up having total coverage? it looks great![/quote]
How can I answer that? :whistle:
To the average man in the street – yes, but there are two small areas on it where I can just see a dark shadow, so I’d have to say no, but I have to point them out to anyone else and shine the 3M Sun Gun on the area.
It really bothers me though, but at the end of the day I know they are two areas of white spot primer that I used (the recommended undercoat colour) Those areas have then had 3 coats of ground coat on them, and maybe 7-8 coats of colour before we ran out. I really can’t see how I could have done any more. Apart from getting the guy to buy some decent paint in the first place of course!! :rofl