Andy Taylor
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[quote=”Stone” post=18853]some plastics just won’t weld worth a crap and some weld like butter …. once welded front and back with extra build or a backing plate welded is a super way to repair SOME plastics , and when looking for the proper rod for the job I steal a little of the edge some where or of a old bumper of the same plastic. … plastic welding some form of rebar into the back side repair works great too. (a fine metal mesh, some pieces of mig wire, staples, etc.) [/quote]
This.
I’ll hot weld where possible, but some plastics simply won’t have it, so I’ll use the Lord Fusor system.
[quote=”admin” post=18856] It would be cost effective only if its in a place where guys are using the disc to its entire life, low-waste shop.[/quote]
I agree completely with this.It works great for dust free, either with the correct blocks for the strips, or on the special DA backing pads, but due to their cost you need to ensure you get full life out of them.
Personally I’ve stuck with the Mirka Abranet/Autonet discs and strips, as I thought they lasted even longer still, but the 3M product is very good.
Very nice Ben.
Looking at the work you’re turning out, I don’t really think your shop needs to find a painter 😉
Looking good Tommy.
I really love that 414 clear, but it’s a bit on the expensive side for me. Should give you a great finish though.
What poly have you used? Reface?
[quote=”MoCoke” post=18648] i never tried the 214, how does it buff?[/quote]
Very nicely indeed.
It’s listed as a scratch resistant product, but you wouldn’t know it when buffing, even after a bake and a couple of days of sitting around. It may be a couple of weeks before I get around to buffing this job, but I’m not concerned 😉
Thanks guys.
Looks even brighter in real life, but as Nick said it would have been easier to do a smaller vehicle, especially given the cramped size of the booth.
It’s a long story, but he’s a very good friend of mine, and bought the base a long time ago without consulting me first. If it were a regular customer I’d have made him buy some decent stuff, but as he’s a mate I decided to go ahead with what he’d got.
Never again though 😆
On a brighter note, it looks like I may be able to use the booth again on the odd occasion. They’ve let people use it in the past and have come back to a right old mess, and loads of missing materials. The booth owner was impressed that I’d brought absolutely everything with me, right down to 5 gallons of diesel to run the burners, and left no trace behind that I’d ever been there (apart from the rather orange filters! 😉 )
Boy my arms ache!! I don’t think I’ve ever spent 4 hours painting one car before :blink:
Anyway, arrived this morning to find the truck squeezed into a rather tiny booth. I hadn’t seen the place before today, and there certainly wasn’t much room to manoeuvre once everything was in there. But I cracked on and spent a couple of hours cleaning everything down and taping up. And here it is ready for paint:
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1010064Large.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1010065Large.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1010067Large.jpg[/IMG]
Two coats of DeBeer water borne ground coat were thrown on.
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1010068Large.jpg[/IMG]
Then the colour – a solvent base by Pro Spray. Never ever again will I use this stuff!!!
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1010071Large.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1010075Large.jpg[/IMG]
It looks OK, but that’s after 6 coats. Covering power is always bad with this particular colour, but that’s a hell of a lot of basecoat to throw on. I ended up using all of the paint the owner had bought, which mixed down 3:1 to give around 5½ litres ready for use, and I’m still not convinced I’ve covered it 100%.
But we had no more paint left, couldn’t get any more today, and were running out of booth time anyway, so he decided I should just go ahead and clearcoat it. Two full coats of DeBeer 8-214 were used. Normally 1½ coats are ample, but I figured the finish might drop slightly due to all that basecoat, so wanted plenty of depth to flat & polish back if necessary:
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1010076Large.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1010078Large.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1010080Large.jpg[/IMG]
It came out fairly clean, but there was no chance of a decent reflection shot due to the colour.
Cheers. Me too.
It’s probably going to be the longest time I’ve ever spent in a booth on one car due to the poor hiding power of the colour. Any rub through areas need a coat of off-white sealer, then it’ll be getting full coverage of an orange ground coat (maybe 2-3 coats in some places), then several coats of the actual colour, which is almost like a pearl loaded candy.
Why couldn’t he have picked an easy colour like black! :lol1
I’ve been doing loads of work on the truck this week, but nothing really looks any different except for the load area:
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1010063Large.jpg[/IMG]
Smothered in a nice thick blanket of epoxy primer to keep future rust at bay. I’ll probably put a bit of colour inside there, but it’s going to be lined out with ply so doesn’t need to be pretty.
I’ve also been going over every square inch of the bodywork again. Some of it was prepped well over a year ago, so I needed to make sure it was all still ok. We’ve also been tracking down all the little bits and pieces that need painting; fuel filler flap, bonnet scoop, that sort of thing. Some of them took some finding after all this time ( it was stripped September 2009) 😆
Big day tomorrow B)
[quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=18467]
sorry maybe i was not very clear :blush:
I ment we use p100 polarstar for prepping blend panels and surrounding paintwork on repair areas[/quote]
I think you were, but I wasn’t 😆We have some polarstar discs, but only in 1500 for de-nibbing. I’ll try some of the 1000 for prep instead of the 1200 Q Silver we’re currently using 🙂
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=18436]Right now I sand mine and scuff them with a gray scuff pad with waterborne degreaser and it does work very well. You’ll might want to give that a shot sometime as it does work very well. I’m thinking the P1000 Abralon may work a little better though.[/quote]
Yes I’ve used a grey scuff pad in the past, but I think you’ll find the Abralon a bit easier as the sponge backing holds the degreaser better.
Glad you like it Ryan :dnc
As I mentioned there are variations on the above methods, and if I’ve got a colour that I know is going to be a tricky blend (by looking at the type of silver in it), then I’ll scuff the edges by hand with a 1000, then while it’s still damp I’ll run over the whole area with it on the DA to give me a consistent, fine scratch pattern. That way I find little need for a wet bed to blend over.
Nick – We use the 1500 Polarstar discs for buzzing down any excess peel after painting (not on my jobs of course 😆 ), but I’ll get some 1000 and give them a try, as we’re currently using their Q Silver 1200. Thanks for the idea.
[quote=”Matrix Paint Systems” post=18401]Nice little project. Nothing like cutting in parts on the floor :blink: [/quote]
😆 Not exactly best practice is it? 😆 Unfortunately needs must as the guy doesn’t have anything resembling a panel stand!
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No pictures (since nothing appears to have changed), but I’ve been over every inch of it again over the past few nights and repaired all of the minor damage it’s picked up while being stood for over a year!
The inside of the bed is going to be lined out with ply, but It’s had a sand down ready for a couple of coats of epoxy primer on Thursday night. That should be enough protection under the wood, and it’ll also help to hold down any dust that’s collected in there.
They do tend to be supplied by the paint manufacturer when they install a mixing scheme, so often your local supplier won’t have any. Some are tin-specific too, so won’t necessarily fit where you want them to.
For water borne base you can buy very similar ‘pouring’ lids, without the mixing paddles (water base doesn’t need stirring up like solvent), but again they’ll be supplied by the manufacturer with a scheme. You’ll still have to remove the lids to stir the paint each time you use it though (assuming its solvent) which is a messy business with those kinds of lids, so as Ding says – a bit useless really.
My best suggestion is to keep an eye out for a bodyshop that’s closing down or changing scheme.