Andy Taylor
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
This sort of thing?
[img]http://bodyshop-pros.com/images/s35lid.JPG[/img]
Thanks.
It’ll be pretty handy when finished as he’ll have enough seats to move his kids around, but can use it as a shop vehicle, throwing engines and stuff in the back.
Talking of engines, the smoky old diesel has been swapped for something with a bit more pulling power
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1000159.jpg[/IMG]
Well I love mine :rock
I’ve been told by a guy I trust that the new SATA 4000 RP just has the edge over it, but I’ve always been an Iwata fan and I’m very happy with the results I get, so I’m sticking with it.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=18299]
Fuking lefties! 😛 They used to make a conversion kit to move the fan knob but I think they quit. Your lucky over there Andy, they gave you’ll the good Iwata. We get all the hvlp ones. :x[/quote]That’s the funny thing. I’d like to try a hvlp version for base, but we can’t get them over here, either to buy or demo. I’ve been playing around putting some water base through the WS400 clear, with mixed results. It lays down the wet coats like a dream, but with this DeBeer the last coat has to be applied at low pressure to give poor atomisation leaving a 180 grit type texture. I’m struggling to get the WS400 to do that, as it’ll just keep on atomising. Turn the pressure down too far and it messes up the fan pattern. I’d definitely like to try the base version, but then I can’t really fault the W400WBX, I just want a shiny new toy :whistle:
Yep, they’re the ones.
They do produce a square version though, especially for hand use, but we stick to the round ones to save double-stocking similar products (exactly the same thing, just cut to a different shape).
Those pads are also perfect for nibbing down any defects in water base. Either dry, or with a little solvent degreaser as a lubricant 🙂
And if I ever get tired of the UK, I’ll come knocking… 😉
[quote=”ding” post=18305]Anyone notice any similarities :whistle:[/quote]
They’re getting a similar gun finish?:rofl :rofl :rofl
[quote=”PAINTPOT” post=18295]I HAVE A SATA3000 still can not get a grip with the gun ,wish i kept my devilbiss.[/quote]
I wasn’t keen either to be honest, but they are clearly great guns that give great results if they suit you.
My main gripe with SATA is the ridiculous fan adjustment. For me, once my fan is set, it stays set. Why do I need to be able to rapidly adjust it from wide to spot, when in doing so I’d have to make several other adjustments to the gun anyway. It just doesn’t make sense.
Of course it’s a bit of sour grapes coming from me if I’m honest. I’m a lefty, so as soon as I pick up any SATA gun my trigger finger instantly knocks the fan knob onto spot. That’s caused me some grief in the past :rofl
I was back behind the guns this week, after a week on prep, and managed to paint 98 this time. My boss is going to start expecting this regularly… :deadhorse
Ryan, you asked in my other thread about our usual prep methods, but I might as well put it in here.
As you’ve seen, we only do minor repairs so most filler jobs only need one application of Upol Easy One filler, followed by a finish skim of Evercoat Easy Sand. Some don’t even need that much and the Easy Sand on it’s own is enough. Repairs are blocked down through the grades to 320, with the scratch marks then being refined with a 400 disc on a DA. This is because we rarely use a 2K primer, but use rattle cans instead :blush:
It’s not as bad as you think, as we aren’t expecting any kind of build out of it, it’s basically just sealing in the filler and any bare metal. Clearly that means any filler work has to be perfect, as we haven’t got the safety net of a few good coats of thick high build to block down. Fill once, fill well 😉
The primer is then smoothed if needed with a 500 disc, and the rest of the panel (and any adjacent blend panels) are sanded with 1000 or 1200. Our old guy then scuffs the edges wet with a grey pad and scuff paste, but the rest of us use a 2000 grit foam backed pad (Mirka Abralon) and degreaser as it’s much quicker and cleaner.
The car will then be outline masked, then it’s a final wipe down with DeBeer 1-951 silicon remover before being parked in front of the booth ready for me to drive in, sheet up, and shoot.
There are obviously variations, but that covers the majority.
[quote=”Ben” post=18281]..we didn’t have any spray out cards or tack cloths…lol[/quote]
Huh? Is this some sort of code? I’ve never heard of those things :blush:
:rofl :rofl
[quote=”MoCoke” post=18226]my supplier says that most shops who’ve tried the different systems prefer the envirobase or debeer water the most. [/quote]
I can’t recommend DeBeer 900 series highly enough. It is so user friendly that I can’t imagine anyone would have difficulty laying it down perfectly after minimal practice. Designed from the ground up as a water borne product, not a converted solvent or hybrid like many of the early WB I used, and it shows.
Medium to dark colours will cover a 320 DA sanded surface easily if you need to with normal application (‘damp’ coat; one wet coat, final light ‘drop’ or ‘control’ coat), and it dries very quickly to an easily sandable finish if you have to nib out any imperfections.
Sure, hiding power isn’t the best on some colours, but they have a very comprehensive range of ground or under coats which solve that issue perfectly.
And your impressions overall of water compared to solvent?…
I remember when we had to start changing over here in the UK. Many said water would be the death of smaller shops, would make the job so much harder etc etc, but several years on (and admittedly, a few generations of product improvement later), and I doubt I would want to go back to solvent base even if I had a free choice.
Great stuff.
I’m guessing you’ve got a real good airflow in the booth, otherwise you’d be risking colour transfer between the panels. Certainly makes the most of the booth doing multiple jobs like that :rock
Hey Tosh, good to have you here,
I’m only over the hills in Sheffield, but used to commute daily to Manchester to a dealership in Ardwick.
:welc
Hi Tosh.
It’s already been said, but yes, that gun is suitable for waterborne basecoat or high solids clears.
I use my WBX daily for WB base, and as long as you keep the fluid tip perfectly clean (especially the V grooves) it does a fantastic job in my opinion. I use a 1.3 though, and find it has a more than adequate fluid output. In fact I have the needle wound in slightly so I’m not even using the full 1.3 (if you see what I mean). It puts out more than enough paint for my needs, and if you’ve seen my recent post, you’ll know I’m not exactly a slow painter!
I also used it some time back as my daily clear gun using DeBeer 8-214, which is pretty high solids, and it did a very good job with that too. Not quite as good as it’s replacement – a WS400 1.3 Clear – but I was very happy with it at the time. The Supernova just took things up another level for me.
You don’t say what products you’re spraying, but give me a shout if I can be of any more help with settings or whatever 🙂
Some great stuff there.
I’d love a bit more variety in my job as it gets a bit monotonous, but that’s maybe just a bit too much 😆