Andy Taylor
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I’ve only used one brand of poly primer (U-Pol Reface). The tech sheet says wet or dry sand, but (of course) it must be dried thoroughly before proceeding. It can be topcoated directly, but recommends a wet on wet primer (a.k.a. sealer) first, which is how I’ve always used it.
I’m still an epoxy virgin :blush: but my Valspar/DeBeer/House of Kolors tech guy has given me a gallon to try out. It’s their Octoral brand, which is aimed at commercial and high production, but he reckons adhesion and protection is just as good as the HOK one, but it doesn’t have as much build, or sand as easily.
On a side note, he strongly recommended not using a water borne base straight over epoxy (sanded or not), as adhesion might be a problem due to the like of chemical ‘bite’ from the base. He’s told me to use WOW / sealer first.
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]your not going to tell me that shop is always that spotless are you?[/quote]Not always, but it gets cleaned to at least that standard once a week. Every so often it gets a ‘proper’ clean though – the owner would have a fit if he saw those stains on the floor. We normally park cars on top to hide ’em :whistle:
He’s a real fruitcake when it comes to cleanliness. You see all the ducting behind the booth? Well we have to dust that every week, then once in a while he’ll get us to wash it all down, and polish it!!!! :wak
Even our parts serving hatch (small silver roller shutter on the back wall) has a piece of clear plastic on the wall below it, so it doesn’t get stained with people leaning against it waiting to get served. Madness, but he’s the boss :lol1
[b]Doright wrote:[/b]
[quote]
Hmm when I click on it nothing happens :huh: thats why I asked :pcorn:[/quote]
Oh sorry. It works ok for me, so I must have got something wrong with the code.[b]Doright wrote:[/b]
[quote]Andy can you post a bigger picture of that set up?
[/quote]
How much bigger do you want? It’s a thumbnail, so clicking on it will take you to the full sized version (1024×768), but I might have some even bigger ones somewhere 🙂[b]bobwires wrote:[/b]
[quote]Best way – TIG welded stainless! run lines in the wall behind the sheetrock and stub out where you need air![/quote]
Nice tidy idea.Ours runs around the ceiling, then drops down to these units which give us air, electric, and dust extraction.
[URL=http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/P1000105-1.jpg][IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/th_P1000105-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Not exactly within most peoples budget though! :blink:
I’m afraid I’m not too sure about the LS400, as we’re not going to be getting it in the UK (we’ve moved on from HVLP ;)). The WS400 version we get comes with just the one air cap for base & clear, but the fluid nozzles are different. Clearly over here we need a gun for each purpose, as mixing one gun for water borne base and solvent borne clearcoat is asking for trouble.
I’d assume that the LS400 has a similar fluid nozzle arrangement, since it is a WS400 gun with US designed air caps (due to be refined further by the guns UK developer from what I’ve been told). The base gun will spray much more like the LPH400LVX than the LVB.
To be honest the best place to ask is on the ASET USA forum. Hub has had a lot of dealings with the LS400, so should be able to tell you more about that particular model than I can.
Yeah, I’d agree with the comments above. Having a 1.4 as an alternative would be handy, but for the stuff you’re doing I would stick to the 1.3.
Yes a 1.4 may save you a bit of time as it’ll apply faster (about 18% greater material flow rate), but on items that size you’ll only be talking about saving a few seconds. You’ll lose much more than that if you get a run with the extra material 😉
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote]Nice one, it’s called a Honda CR-V over here :wak[/quote]We have CR-V’s over here also.[/quote]
Ah yes, that looks like the current model we get too, whereas the Pilot above looks like our old CR-V. Maybe it’s just the family resemblance fooling me 🙂Nice one, it’s called a Honda CR-V over here :wak
Hello there – welcome aboard :welc
Great stuff, I always like to see how other guys paint – I might get the hang of it myself if I watch enough :rofl Sounds like you really hate doing bumper covers though. It’s a good job you don’t work with me, that’s what I do more than anything!
That’s a very good idea with the makeshift bumper stand. Simple idea, but very effective. Something else I can copy 😛
[b]Nexson wrote:[/b]
[quote]I also picked up some sprayway glass cleaner, we will see how that works out![/quote]
Some glass cleaners are very similar to some water based cleaners anyway – at heart a water/alcohol mixture.We work in a similar way to that mentioned by Jimmo – a clean with a solvent based wax/silicone remover before we even start the job (DeBeer 1-951), another once the prep is finished, but before masking, then a final wipe down with a water based cleaner (1-851) before paint.
As said by Jim C, they each remove a different set of contaminants, so using both is a good idea, and I leave the WB one until last as it gets rid of finger prints etc from taping up, and it’s also anti-static.
I used to use a Lechler one, in a similar way to Joe. A quick coat over any cut throughs, blow dry, then on with the base. The product was deemed suitable to be used as a high build – 3 coats, bake dry, then dry or wet sand, but personally I’d rather use a ‘proper’ 2K primer instead, as it just seemed too much like a modernised version of lacquer primer to me.
Just another idea to throw into the mix, that I’ve only just remembered. I had a similar problem once many years ago, and simply couldn’t get rid of it. I rang a guy I used to work with for advice, and he told me to change the air hose I was using, as it was a cheap workshop type rather than a bodyshop specific one, and it did the trick!
Turns out tiny bits of rubber were breaking away inside the line and causing my contamination. Not sure if that info will be of any help to you, but it might be worth borrowing another hose to try 🙂
And again, you can see the cause of the problem right there in the centre of the fish eye.
Firstly, don’t be tempted to use a fish eye additive – short term gain, long term pain 😉
Until you get to the root of the problem, there are a couple of hack tricks you can try if you’re only getting the odd one here and there. Get a pin and try to ‘burst’ that bubble at the centre of the fish eye whilst the clear is still wet. That may be enough for the clear to flow into the hollow.
If that doesn’t work, again while the clear it still wet, dab a little blob of clear into the fish eye with a fine brush. This should flow out and be almost invisible when the clear has dried. You may end up with a little lump, but that’ll sand out much more easily than a hollow.
Neither of the above are actual cures, or indeed recommended procedures, but just short term quick fixes until you get the contamination problem licked 🙂
I always spray them wet too, just like regular SS. Never had the need to mess about with fog coats and the like, so I’m guessing the flattener wasn’t doing it’s job properly.
Did you stir the tin up real good, as the flattening agents really do settle out?
But my biggest tip would be – spray it out first. You can never be sure exactly what sort of gloss level you’re going to get, as technique, spraying environment, choice of reducer etc can all alter it, so I would always mix a little up and do a test card before going near a panel.