paul
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my mate at custompaintstudio is an official Iwata dealer and keeps me up to speed on the offers but in fairness the Gunsa has always been a great deal ,although sold as a primer sealer gun they are in fact good allrounders maybe too good for Iwata to promote them as a clear gun which they are very capable of being
either compliant if your bothered about regs or a conventional which will break up primers and will still give high transfer rates with high build primers ,imo HVLP is waste of time with most high builds ,the airgunza HTE3 is an excelent choice and has tip sizes up to 3.5 ,currently they are on dealer promo so deals can be had along with W400 and some variants like the bellaria and i think the WBX as well
[quote=”ding” post=30003]Don’t spray it to the edge of the panel :whistle:[/quote]
may i ask why not ? after all it is no different to spraying colour to the edge of the panel
DBC 500 is a completly transparant product so no yellowing issues with it ,some control binders are yellow and will create issues over light colours ,i have found this an issue when using some pearls as tricoats over white as the binder will turm then to off white ,it has been an issue for doing bikes in the past as the factory pearl jobs are very clean so you have to watch what pearls you use to match them
when using a control binder as a wet base then yes definatly use a fully transparant one such as DBC 500
no they are not esential for blends but in my experiance they make things a lot easier plus as i mentioned they also act like a grabber coat for you clear and allow it to lay easier and more consistantly than over sanded clearcoat
i have been using clear basecoats for a few years now especialy for silver blends in fact for most blends as it allows for a much heavier scratch and i also find that with a full base foundation the clears lays nicer than on plain sanded factory clear with far less risk of runs sags and an uneven finish as in my experiance fresh clear doese not lay the same over old clear as it doese over newly aplied basecoat
my process is to sand out the whole panel inc the blocked repair with 400 to 600 on a DA ,lay the clear foundation coat over the whole panel but keeping within any clear blend areas, colour up the repair then add 50% base binder to the colour to fade out with ,any more than 50% and your risk issues with the pearls floating as with a contaminated clear coat ,i think we have all experianced metalics floating in clearcaot due to a poorly washed gun at some stage of the game
as i mainly do custom work i use a lot of so called intercoat clears or control binders as i prefer to call them ,their main use for me is as a candy dye carier, metalflake carrier and for other trick Tricoats ,for airbrush work i use them to extend my colour prior to thinning in order to reduce the pigment loading and mantian a decent binder to thinner ratio at the same time
once you have learned to embrace the use of a control binder such as DBC 500 you will wonder why you struggled on without them before
Paul
you cant actualy purchase a new digitil unit for them ,the gun has to be sent in to a Sata service centre at a min £75 inspection/service cost ,i actualy prefered the ADAM guage myself as it allowed for easier adjustment of the airflow
the digi guns are also bulkier and to be honest even IF they do read accuratly who in fact requires a guage to read to such a precise degrea anyway !
off the gun walcom HA
i have one and rarely use it ,the problem i have is they are a full face seal and awkward to put on and remove easily they also feel claustrophobic although that may just be me lol,personaly i prefer either a fly or a pull down airfed
whenever i have worked for such people i wont push things i just do as requested eventualy it usualy costs them with redos and failures ,the last pratt i worked for insisted we go direct from 80 grit to filler primer ,jobs looked great for a few weeks lol
currently i am working with great bloke who doese listen and will try alternative sugestions ,i have introduced him to new tools and converted him from wet flatting to dry ,introduced him to superior materials that although initialy more expensive have increased productivity three fold ,i enjoy my day and this shows in both my productivity and finished results
If your working for someone who doesnt apreciate your knowledge and skills then that is their loss becouse most likely he wont need to sack you you will find somewhere nicer to work
Paul
i have long been concidering doing a matte candy job ,i actualy think its a nice effect
i do mainly custom paintwork these days so double lacquering is the norm for me and i never wet flat/block i always use a DA with soft pad not an interface unless the shape of the panel requires one
personaly i dont feel a block gets paint any flatter than a DA anyway
my prefered grade of paper is P400 and i will also use down to P320 and up to P600 ,a DA efectivly doubles the grit so my prefered P400 is actualy acting like P800 wet anyway ,hence P600 can struggle a bit to flatten heavier peel especialy with an interface
flow coating is actualy a tad different to double clearing ,the recomendation is for a slower cure and added solvents to form a slick sheet over you flatted first session however i tend not to add extra solvent to HS and UHS clears as that can lead to solvent pop issues hence why i say i double clear as opossed to flow coating proper ,with good flowing clear and medium speed activators the difference in the final result is negliblee if any
i like to turn out a first class custom job and in my experiance wet blocking between clearscoats gives no better results than a DA ,its just messy and time consuming and imo a falacy
Paul
a good firm would normaly encourage aprentices to purchase thier own spray gun at the very least ,i realy dont like shared shop guns ,it generaly creates arguements and even contempt for the shop equipment ,my personal guns are not cheap models which to me is an indicator of a persons comitment to his or her trade ,just like any tradesman you can often judge them by the contents of thier tool bag ,rustly old pipe wrenches and cheap equipment tells me there are themselves cheapskates who may even lack the skills required to do the job anyway
my friend works at Aston Martin and their sprayers buy thier own guns although i dont expect they would be bringing in thier own DA sanders etc etc
for any trademan to bring his tools to the job with him is basicly a tradition even if not technicaly a requirement these days
Paul
Walcom also have thier own recondations plus those of the manufacturers which sometimes vary
i actualy prefer a compliant gun over a HVLP for waterbourne and if you look at Sata’s youtube video for waterbased the sprayer is actualy using an RP when you would have expeted them to use the WSB HVLP gun for it
i find water likes to be atomised more finely and maybe im guesing but the extra pressure and air velocity may well be ridding the product of moisture en route ,ANI do a gun called the Idea model, it actualy comes with a funky heater under the gun which works on airflow not electricty specificaly for waterbournes in order to warm the product up as its aplied to aid drying in much the same way as turbine system would by producing warm air
i also have to agrea that ultimatly flow coating produces superior results to sanding and buffing ,with few exceptions the first aplication of any clear will be dulled back by the basecoat which acts like blotting paper ,when it comes to custom finishes i treat the first aplication of clear as a sealer coat i then DA back the whole job with 400 and reclear/flow coat
i find even with the best of products there is definatly a noticable difference in gloss retention between the first session and the second
[quote=”Zero6″ post=29358][quote=”Balden” post=29353]you know i dont care too much for 5335 (it tends to run on me) 5300 i love, but what do i know, i cant even spray matt black.[/quote]
I tend to see it run easier when spraying over clear (like blend panels ) full repaints not much of problem.
Try letting first coat tack up real good or use smaller tip.[/quote]i find that an issue with with any blended panel ,nowadays i tend to sand back panels for blends as oposed to fine scotch and then lay a foundation coat ,personaly i have never felt comfortable about adhesion when using grey scotch and or matting agents ,i mostly knock back panels with 400 to 600 on the DA ,then use the foundation coat to cover the heavier scratch ,these days i have mostly replaced the use of scotch with Abralon which i also feel gives a far superior scratch
also when laying clear over old just sanded clear it isnt soley runs that are the issue but the tendancy for the clear to flow unevenly much like water beading on glass where the clear is atempting to gather up ,in my experiance the runs ocure from atempting to rectify this uneven flow by the tendancy to lay the clear more heavily ,with a foundation coat the clear will lay consistantly over the whole panel rather than just where the colour has been layed,on that note even the base can suffer this beading/seperation issue where the blend area finishes and there is effectivly less materail being layed over the old clearcaot
although the process and materails used is increased by this method its more than paid for with the resulting more even finish which requires less final finishing ,plus i feel a lot more confident regarding any potential future delam issues
