paul
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
one variable many people forget about is the temp of the product ,if stored cold then any product will increase in viscosity making it difficult to spray even through the largest of tips ,i use an AID superhawk 2.0 conventional AKA high pressure spraygun for primers etc they are basicly a rebranded Binks 603
personaly i dont like using spray poly ,too prone to moisture issues and microblistering
these convert from Air Spray ie compliant RP to LVLP just by changing the air cap
this is a rebranded for Nordson Bersch and Fratscher Optima Trifity but at a much lower price and includes the optional built in pressure gauge as standard
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKWvKsTMQE0
the FLG 3 can be fitted with the GTI transtech 110 air cap rather than its stock HVLP cap which is next to useless for clears and direct gloss applications ,the lock ring doesn’t fit but the actual air cap does
are you getting enough airflow round these as they cure and are they being left to sit in still envionment overnight such as a closed booth as often the solvents will just sit on top of the job and create this type of issue
letting that first coat cure was a good idea but five minutes doesnt sound anywhere near enough ,if i have laid a heavy first coat i tend to let it slick off for good while
decisions decisions,do i purchase the Befrag Optima Trifity for £600 or buy the Nordson Trilogy for £199 ,same gun made by the same company but rebranded ,dont delude yourselves into believing your paying for the quality of the gun when you are in fact paying for the distribution network where everyone wants their finger in the pie
lets take Iwata for instance ,manufactured in Japan ,distributed through Italy to Anest Iwata UK distributer then on to their dealers ,each time they change hands through that network the price increases ,now lets work it backwards and you may find that the actual manufacturing costs are comparable to some chinese crap and iwata do indeed have stuff manufactured for them in mainland China
major dealerships can often command some 65% discount from full RRP ,now go figure what the distributer is paying then go figure what his supplier paid from the factory that made them ,then you will have an idea of what is realy going on in the trade 😉
most of the major gun manufacturers are price fixing ,please note many will no longer allow dealers to advertise prices and anyone discounting on Ebay is quickly delt with by way of reducing their buy in discount ,and i can assure you that is policy for at least one major manufacturer
both my minjets pass air as the seals have worn after not a fantastic lot of use ,issues with the airsplitter nobs cracking and turning on thier spindles ,,My Sata 95 has worn out its micrometre seal and passes air out of the front of the trigger plunger as well as wont shut off air properly ,friends sata minis both have similar issues and as for pot lids on minijets especialy its hard to get one to last above six months or so if used regularly ,big guns suffer similar issues and when you take into account the price of a sata lid or cup then the quality doese not in any way keep up with the price of the units
i have found my iwata guns after much use and abuse have been absolutly bullet proof
my Optima has been superb but again the pot lids on this german gun are dire ,even worse than Sata as the seal lip splits away on the lid
sagolas after years of daily service not an issue in sight ,again bullet proof
Walcom guns suffer similar micrometre issue to Sata but as they use the same componants then to be expected but spares are substantialy cheaper ,pots great but again they start to pass air after a while like my experiance with the Sata guns the mini STM is very prone to passing air as well but Walcom always throw in a complete rebuild kit with their guns so i cant complain too much about them lol i use the geo and Fx kits to rebuild my Sata micrometres which is a bonus
ive got an older AirGunza with an inline air and fluid control which now passes air and unfortunatly the repair kits make it more feasable to just buy another gun as the latest HTE is usualy found discounted heavily where rebuild kits are always full price
probelms with sata digitals and your into heavy money as sata do not sell repair kits and the gun has to be sent in to a service agent with a minimum £75 charge and that doesnt include parts
whilst i wouldnt kick a sata out of bed i would never pony up for new one as they are stupidly overpriced and expensive to service ,on retail ide say the sagols are overpriced as well as are Optimas and to prove that point you can buy a rebranded Optima for half or less than the price of a Bersch and Fratscher version with the higher spec built in PSI guage
iwata supernova ,first edition suffered pot thread issues and nobs falling off ,again an extremly overpriced gun which intialy had build quality issues now resolved with the Evolution model
iwata G6 mini ,needles out of line to nozzle ,two i have owned had needles biased top the top right of the nozzles creating excesive wear
so guys its not a sata bash as most marques will have issues 😉
[quote=”ding” post=33420]SATA[/quote]
Sata have seals and of all the guns i have used they seem to fail more frequantly than most ,along with pot lids that fail ,funnily enough Walcom guns share some componants with Sata such as the air micrometer seals which are interchangable between the two marques and guess what the Walcom micrometers fail just as regularly as do the air shut off seals again shared with Walcom guns so they tend to bleed air constantly when they fail to seat correctly
Sata possible the worst example of a seal system that fails and to add insult to injury they are amongst the most overpriced guns on the market as well ,plastic control nobs as well which crack and split or turn on their spindles along with the chrome flaking off
they do spray nice enough though but as for overall quality ,not impressed at all
the one major drawback is when metal to metal parts eventualy wear the gun may well be scrap as oposed to more sacrificial replacable seals ,if i am not mistaken that model has an inline coaxial air and fluid control and will have seals as will the needle bearing at the gun head
most modern bodywork is very thin and will flex whilst blocking filler so use an easy sanding product such as Upol Fantastik which will then allow you to use far less weight on your block along with finer grades of paper ,personaly i start with P80 ,i then guide and go to 180 after which i finish with 240 on a DA then prime ,i often use a soft interface with the 240 in order to preserve the shape or flatness of my original work ,again i guidcoat first to ensure i dont remove anything other than the heavier scratch
for primer i block with 240 dry reguide and remove the 240 scratch with 320 on a DA with either a soft pad and or an interface depending on shape etc
who are we talking to ,anonymous or single snail ??
anyway my first guess is microblistering from moisture in the airline
i do this all the time and you have no need to intercoat just use clear directly over as a final finishing coat ,as long as you dont go crazy base will mix with clears for a fuax candy or special effect ,i like to drop my pearls into the first coat of clear, this gives another dimension to them as the light gets at them better when they are suspended in the clear as oposed to laying flat as per a standard job ,most any clear binder will act as a carrier or “intercoat” clear but just remember it cant be built as high as 2K clear although the addition of activator in basecoats will give added stability for multilayer jobs
you will create back pressure on the tool by connecting it to anything that gives any resistance at all
PS the tool doesnt use some of the air it uses all of the air and exhusts out all of the air ,what it uses is the stored energy within the compressed air ,the most efficiant thing to do is swop as many of your air tools for electric tools as compressed air tools are very inefficiant in the first place 😉
a second clearing will most often result in virtualy no die back compared to the first session it can also be done without scuffing the fist session back if done within the first 24 hours as it will crosslink”sherwin williams have recomendation for this to cure solvent pop issues ” but most will scuff first ,my method is to DA the first clearing with P400 then use thinned out product through a fine tipped gun usualy a 1.2 or have my larger set up choked back ,imo the reason why a second clear session maintains a better gloss is the first has sealed everything and stopped the base and primers from acting like blotting paper
im from Birmingham UK we invented this laqcuering game ,call it what you want its all bullshit in a tin anyway 😉
the UV protection in the UK is superb ,its called clouds and they completly block out the UV for most of the year ,the rain pruduced also keeps those candied bikes in the garage and out of harms way 😛
