Ben Hart

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Viewing 15 posts - 361 through 375 (of 1,371 total)
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  • September 5, 2012 at 8:28 pm #38192

    What I see on the picture is a fair bit of orange peel, and the hood looks wavy (not flat).

    What did you use to prime it, and what exactly did you do to block it flat?

    September 5, 2012 at 8:23 pm #38191

    which version of the RP so you currently have?

    September 5, 2012 at 7:32 am #38179

    sealer (wet on wet) just before base. Primer is just as good and is essentially the same thing, but needs to be sanded before top coating.

    Most collision painters prep new parts, apply etch primer to bare metal (or adhesion promoter on bare plastic) then 1-2 coats of sealer, then onto base and clear. All wet on wet.

    September 5, 2012 at 4:44 am #38171

    Always seal as well. Sometimes use high build primer if the part is damaged or what not, but that is pretty rare.

    September 3, 2012 at 3:49 am #38139

    Looks like some deliscious ribs!

    The wife and I are camping near Revelstoke for the next week, could use some good BBQ like that!

    August 30, 2012 at 2:49 am #38087

    Clear won’t adhere properly to the metal and won’t give any corrosion protection. Eventually the gas will soften the clear and eat it away.

    August 27, 2012 at 4:27 am #38066

    Flame me if you must….but for Nex, how about going to the aerosol system. You can get the base coat paint mixed at your supplier and put in an aerosol can. You can buy 1k clear or there is even 2k clear in an aerosol can (there is a button on the can you press, then shake to mix the 2 parts together). Just use the can up before it all hardens. And then get some blending solvent in an aerosol can and you are set. You can paint all the grilles you want & bumper blow ins. Its quiet, relatively inexpensive and compliant. I think you can even get 2k urethane primer in this system.

    Kinda cheesy, but I suppose if this stuff has its place, this would be it.

    August 27, 2012 at 4:16 am #38065

    [quote=”Dag” post=27228]No, not even in the Congo. We use this tree…

    [IMG]http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb126/dagges/untitled.jpg[/IMG][/quote]

    😆 I sure wish you posted here more Dag. Your pictures always make my day! 😉

    August 24, 2012 at 5:50 am #38032

    You were trying to use Chromabase, right? And is that Silver PS2?

    If that is the factory colour, chroma base actually matches PS2 really well (I think it is the standard). Very blendable indeed.

    August 23, 2012 at 6:16 am #38006

    [quote=”skz71″ post=27178]Cant remember what model number but its a older one. All plastic OMX Gun with the 2 triggers. Its old but Was nice gun at time i bought it. I normally shoot At 30 to 35 psi But figured Id try their recommendation. to see if made difference. I know time for new gun. But kind of fond of this one. And it still works good. Until money is allowable for new gun.[/quote]

    Is that the green plastic gun with beige trigger…kinda looks like a gardening tool?

    The camera isn’t always 100% accurate all the time. Depending on how they set the info up in the mixing system, the camera will often come up with a colour from something completely different. This may work, or it may cause metamerism. The best bet is to choose the best variant and blend it out. Looking for a 100% perfect match is usually a waste of time.

    Chromabase is relatively easy to use, but you can definitely alter is a good bit by controlling the metallics (such as gun pressure). If the you went to the supplier and gave them a code to mix, then they are not at fault. Generally they would just mix the standard and send it to you. Most times the problem is the user, not the product. Mix it 1:1 with the basemaker and apply medium coats with proper flash times. I think the gun you are using is and HVLP and may be better suited closer to 30 PSI…

    August 23, 2012 at 6:03 am #38004

    I’m no artist…

    but to do marbling, you can use a paint gun (no air brush needed). In fact, there are several things you can do with a paint gun.

    Air brushing is more for small areas/deatil or murals.

    August 22, 2012 at 2:05 am #37976

    If you are doing bigger jobs/completes a pressure pot would be ideal. Otherwise, for the smaller jobs a good automotive paint gun is fine (like a SATA RP). Choose the gun and match it with the product. Although I would believe the u-tech is probably best with a 1.4-1.8 tip.

    August 22, 2012 at 1:58 am #37975

    No I don’t and never have.

    Only exception would be denibbing sealer/base etc.

    I always make sure everything is prepped and checked prior to going into the booth.

    August 20, 2012 at 6:26 am #37948

    Just like Ding said. And DON’T cheap out and avoid the sealer, a good 2k urethane sealer is an absolute must!!! Most paint companies make their adhesion promoter in an aerosol can if you prefer it that way, and it isn’t too terribly expensive.

    August 18, 2012 at 7:29 am #37927

    Thats what I keep saying, clear the whole thing. That is what we usually did at the Chrysler dealer as well. 🙂

Viewing 15 posts - 361 through 375 (of 1,371 total)