Ben Hart
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Is it too late to go back and delete my posts…this thread’s just taken a turn for the worst :blink:
The paste isn’t too expensive. Depending on the brand you should be able to get a bottle for under $40 I would think. The Presta Scuff Stuff seems to be the most popular. A little goes a long way as well, and if you are doing it with the paste, the grey pads last a fair while.
Basically clean the panel first, get it wet, then wet the pad. Apply a small amount to the pad and start scuffing. You should be able to feel the abrasive in the paste. As you go, the paste will break down and just become soapy, so you can get more paste going then. Just work one area at a time (like half a panel, or a small panel) and rinse well before moving on.
Grey pads can be used dry, but when doing a large area it is generally quicker to go wet. Also depends on the pads. The grey 3M pads don’t last as long as some of the others when used dry.
I usually go dry to get the edges of the panels I have sanded with 800 on a DA, or if I prepped a panel wet with the pad and paste I will inspect it when it is dry. If there are small areas a little shiny still, I would just go over them with the grey pad dry, rather than getting it wet again.
Nice set of hammers Jay! If only they still made them…Just reminds me of some of the cool vintage tools my Grandpa still has at his place.
Most of us us 800 with and interface pad on a DA. Probably the quickest way, but also the easiest to screw up and burn through. Grey pad and scuff paste can be fairly quick too, and is almost foolproof. Just make sure to clean it (not let any residue/sludge dry on there) and check for shiny spots when dry. Sanding with 800-1000 wet works ok as well, but is probably the slowest possible way of prepping. A grey pad with paste may be the best way for you.
If I am ever prepping a blend panel and I am worried about the clear being thin (like on some Korean cars, I would go grey pad (wet or dry).
Looks good so far. Nice looking plug welds too…
Is that an old Proto body hammer? Looks like the ones my Grandpa has.
Just depends on the product you are using. You should change the fluid tip size according to the conditions…
Welcome to the site!
With base coat, you do not sand/scuff it. The only sanding/scuffing is when you initially prep the panel. From the time you lay your first coat of base, to last coat of clear, no sanding, just wet on wet application as it is called. Always get ahold of the tech sheet for the products you are using and follow the manufacturers directions.
I’ve used the PO before. Mostly with the aerosol version for small areas (like when priming)…same as PPG, Dupont Sherwin etc…
Hard to see well from the pictures, but all in all it doesn’t look too bad.
In general, it is best to paint parts in a position similar to how they would sit on the vehicle.
[quote=”bobwires” post=26600]I always bomb through it with 220 or so on a DA to scuff it up for filler. then work over the little dimples and whatnot with red scotchbrite.
I would much rather have epoxy on bare metal than filler.[/quote]
I understand the idea of it, but don’t completely agree. Most of the better body fillers have additives to allow better adhesion to bare metal as well as offering corrosion resistance. If you use a quality product and apply it properly, I don’t think it is worse than applying filler over epoxy. And then you eliminate any chance of there being any issue with adhesion between the filler and epoxy.
[quote=”ryan999″ post=26597][quote=”Ben” post=26595]No idea, never used it. We use the M600…[/quote]
What do you use for a waterborne cleaner?[/quote]
For plastic parts I am now mostly using Isopropyl and we also have the Antistatic surface cleaner. For waterbourne cleaner, the best thing (after trying many products) has been aerosol glass cleaner. The Sikkens rep agreed that glass cleaner seems to do a better job than anything they sell.
[quote=”Red Baron” post=26592][quote=”Ben” post=26577]
Just got news that Sikkens is discontinuing one of their best products, the All Plastic Adhesion Promoter. No news if they will come out with an alternative, so we will have to go back to the primer PO and Plastoflex primers for plastics.
[/quote]There’s good reasoning behind it:
1) Most painters did not use APAP properly. Meaning they did not add EOA.
2) PO has slightly better system performance and is now the only adpro needed.
3) Your jobber should have a pretty good supply of APAP.
4) Many painters were/are applying it on metal parts and getting less than desirable results due to the fast solvent in APAP.
5) This will allow YOU to control the activator speed to better suit the job and temp.
Ben,
Are you in a regulated VOC market?[/quote]
Yep, in Canada. They did mention something along the lines of VOC restrictions…although that makes little sense if it would have been approved for sale a few years ago under the latest low VOC laws.
No idea, never used it. We use the M600…
Yep, basically.
Or just sand/scuff it with 320 grit/red scotch brite pad, any time after it is dry. I would probably sand it anyway, just to be safe (even if you are still in the recoat window).
[quote=”DailyDrivenMini” post=26584]The reason I asked about thinning the clear was because it was going to too thick for me thus the run. Maybe I need to move my gun faster? Further back?
Thanks yall for all the help thus far.[/quote]
Well, looking at the hood I would say you need to readjust your gun. What clear are you using? What gun and how much air pressure? What size fluid tip in the gun?