Ben Hart
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I would sand it down with 600-800 and re shoot the base and clear.
Make sure to apply the base in medium coats (not too wet) and allow about 5 minutes flash time between coats. Then let the base flash off at least 15 minutes before clearing (maybe even a little longer, just to be safe…most base coats can be cleared up to 24 hours after). When you apply the clear, recheck the adjustments on the gun. It is a good idea to spray some scrap parts or masking paper to check it out. You may want to reduce the clear a little bit to help it out. Ensure you get enough pressure at the gun, hold the gun at about 6″ from the panel. The 1.4 tip in your gun may be a tad big for this product, a 1.3 may be better. A slower activator may also help. Apply 2 coats of clear with adequate flash in between coats (about 5 minutes depending on conditions).
I think your clear went on too thick and was not atomized enough. You probably need thinner wetter coats. Thick coats trap solvent and can cause solvent pop (paint drying from the outside in forms a skin, if there is solvent that hasn’t evaporated, it needs to penetrate that skin, causing little holes/crevices). I believe that is what the white stuff is in your clear. Applying the clear thinner allows the solvent in each coat to evaporate quicker, as does slowing down the clear (with a slower activator/reducer) preventing it from skinning over or even being too dry when being sprayed…this also allows the clear to flow out smoother.
Spray can stuff is usually super thin in order to get it out of the spray can with so little propellant. That is likely why you never had this problem with those.
[quote=”pierceg” post=26391]Yeah I found ever since I’ve been using these pads I’ve never had an issue with paint peeling off when I’m unmasking. Not even one time.
I have a theory about adhesion and that’s that it doesn’t really matter what grit you sand with because sand scratches in general are all you need.
And nope grey pads will not even get you close to 800 dry. When I do bright silver I have to bring body work to 1000 wet for it to match the pad prepped area.I also wouldn’t mind to know your system for cleaning once you’re done. I have to wash the car with wet shop towels then dry it off and begin masking.[/quote]
:blink: 1000 wet is about the same as 800 dry.
When using the paste, I keep it wet until it can be rinsed. Then I usually take some of the car wash soap and wipe, then rinse. I blow/wipe dry with disposable shop towels and inspect the parts. Then mask. In the booth I clean with wax and grease remover and/or isopropyl then finally glass cleaner (helps with the water base coat).
We are using the Carbo Fibratex pads
Don’t fret, if this is your first time spraying automotive paint. It takes a lot of time and practice to get it perfect.
You have a lot of orange peel (the texture in the paint). It also looks like you may have solvent pop or something else going on there too.
What are the exact products that you used on there? 2:1 may be the right ratio, but if it isn’t, that could be contributing to your issues (as well as many other factors). But lets start with going over the product info and go from there…
There is nothing wrong with that. Many people prefer prepping panels with a DA (typically 500-800 with an interface pad) as it is very quick, and since it is dry, the panel can be masked and painted right away.
Scuff pads are fine, as long as you do it correctly and manage to abrade the panel enough. The only issue with using the paste is ensuring you clean the panel properly when done. Otherwise any leftover paste will dry a thin layer of residue, causing adhesion issues. Abrade it well, make sure you are even with it, and inspect when dry to ensure there aren’t any shiny spots. I believe grey pads with paste is supposed to be the approx equivalent to P800 dry.
If it works for you, and haven’t ever had adhesion issues, then no need to stop.
[quote=”Ringwraith” post=26363]How do you mean “ruin a car”?
I thought soda blasting was good?
(Total newbie here)Cheers
Sean[/quote]baking soda is very alkaline and needs to be neutralized with an acid. Creates a chemical reaction with the steel. I believe if it is not neutralized you will have massive adhesion issues and possibly corrosion problems.
What type of paint/primer are you using?
How did the job turn out? Any pics of it?
[quote=”Andy T” post=26349]You’re from the UK aren’t you reidy? In which case regulations say you have to run it at a slight negative pressure to keep the harmful fumes from escaping. Our booth even shuts down automatically if it strays into positive pressure for too long!
As Ben says though, slightly positive is a much better idea and I think that’s how most US booths run, but since the regulations here don’t allow it 0 is about the best you can do ;)[/quote]
I understand the point for voc emissions, but if your booth is decently sealed, then it really shouldn’t make a difference. That’s just plain stupid :wak
I wonder if that is why on the spraybake booths we had, it was non-adjustable?
Pressure should be just slightly positive. I would think 0.01 to 0.05 would be ok.
What does your control panel look like on yours? We had 2 spraybakes at a shop I use to work at, the pressure wasn’t adjustable on ours…
I know the stuff you are talking about, you definitely have to work quick with it. Fusor has a similar product,122/123EZ, I believe is a little slower, but may not be slow enough for a large roof like that. Fusor also has the 129 seam sealer that is a little thicker. May not flow as well, but I believe you could sand this stuff smooth if needed, once it cures
I have also used the 3M brushable seam sealer to fill them as it is slow enough and you can work it, but it is hard to get it looking 100%. I like to load it up in there, then smooth it out with a wet finger…Fusor has the 800EZ (1 part, in a caulking tube) this stuff is great for some areas and very workable. It doesn’t flow a whole lot, but it is thick and super nice to work with. You might be able to smooth this stuff out enough, and for a 1 part product it is surprisingly durable.
I gather this guy wants the drip rail perfectly straight and smooth and won’t settle for factory quality…only better 🙂
Looks like a great finish. Now will it hold out well after hosing it on 🙂
[IMG]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/521526_10150982074340033_723495032_12311059_255739849_n.jpg[/IMG]
All painted up. Today I applied the booth coating, cleaned the floor and changed the filter. All ready to go again.
According to the tech sheet, “If the basecoat color is allowed to dry more than 24 hours, it must be scuffed and new basecoat color applied.”
I was pretty impressed with the hiding abilities… considering its white and all. 1 coat was basically enough. I take back anything good I ever said about Delfleet 🙂
Cost to do the booth was around $230 or so for paint/hardener. Definitely used less than I would have with other single stage products.
I sprayed it with a crappy old Devilbiss finishline with a 1.5 tip, and it still looked nice. Seemed to have great mil build too!
Seems comparable to Imron 5000, but better
Just say no…unless your car is a 1992 Geo and you just don’t care.
As mentioned, a proper plastic repair, where there is a rip/tear through the plastic requires a 2 sided repair. The bumper should be removed. Repairing is perfectly fine and will be very strong, but will need to be done correctly.
I’d find a decent reputable shop you both agree on and have the work done there. Shady backyard stuff can be down right scary…