Ben Hart
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Spot priming should be ok so long as you know you have enough build around there that you won’t burn through elsewhere later.
I know some guys that will only re-prime the entire panel on show cars, just to be safe. Whichever way you can make it work best…
Every shop that does a “show” car will do it a little different depending on the materials and technique etc.
Some people may just spray as normal and get pretty darn good results. SOme may spray a few coats of clear, let it dry, wetsand it all, then spray a flow coat of clear.
In the best cases the paint jobs are wet sanded and polished in the end, very meticulously. All this added work is also very expensive.
Unless you are doing a real high end $100,000 show car, I wouldn’t worry about that. I would find a really good shop and check out their work. Many painters can get a fabulous job in a collision shop that will be pretty great and as as good or better than most of the paint jobs you see at your local car shows.
I would think if the areas are small enough, sealer would be ok, however…
When I was using PPG, the Rep suggested to always spray 2k primer over the poly and never just seal it. He said it would void their warranty.
Personally I would probably be inclined to spray more primer and reblock, especially if you are doing this as more of a high end job. Better safe than sorry. Afterall, the Nason primer and slick sand both sand at different rates, so any burn through is a chance of having the panel less straight than you may have wanted.
Welcome to the site
I found PPG to have a better library for motorcycles than any other paint company.
I would either phone the help line and see what they say…or phone PPG for this one.
Our booth
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/422161_10150731421280033_723495032_11714114_302611191_n.jpg[/img]We unfortunately do not have a mixing room. The mixing bank and most of the goods are at the end of 1 of my bays (as seen below). Then we have a small mixing bench outside the booth door and the gun cleaner is next to the booth controls. Not much space in the shop, but it works.
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/422161_10150731421255033_723495032_11714113_1228280294_n.jpg[/img]
[quote=”Jayson M” post=25568]Don’t use either of them and use utech 200 or 3.5,they are just as good if not better and easy on your wallet too :cheers[/quote]
Jay just couldn’t leave this thread without Akzo being involved :p
I’ve done these on tanks before.
One thing I make sure of is that the decal has no more gloss than a satin finish. Then as stated above, clear as usual.
I am sorry, but I cannot comment on the Pro-Spray. I have used Concept, though. It is a fairly easy to use S.S. and is durable. Obviously not the #1 choice for metallics, but I think for wheels you could get the results you are looking for relatively easily. If you prep them properly and use a good etch then sealer, they will last for a very long time.
Unless the Pro-Spray is better priced and someone can attest to the product, I would just go with the PPG, I am sure you will be very happy with it.
[quote=”Andy T” post=25502][quote=”nlafayette” post=25501]Talked to the painter- he said problem mostly occurs when blending into adjacent panel and wet bed needs to be sprayed close to edge of panel. it seems as though the wet bed is changing the shade.[/quote]
If I’m reading you right it might not be the basecoat that’s at fault at all. If he’s talking about the far end of a blend panel being darker than the original, then it’s more likely the build up of the wet bed and extra clear causing the darkening effect. We call it the magnification effect in the UK, not sure about over there 🙂
One way to reduce it is to make sure he only puts one coat of clear right to the edge of the panel, but that can sometimes cause it’s own problems due to having such a thin film thickness.[/quote]
That is a very common problem that can happen with any paint brand, most noticeable on silvers. Sometimes it gets you, sometimes not…
[quote=”nlafayette” post=25493]We spray DuPont Chromax Pro, solid colors match fine but metalics, mostly silver, the match is horrible at times. Even when the color chip or spray outs look fine. We use the 3m “sun gun” to match the color chips and also use Nason 465-00 clear. Anybody having the same problem or have any new tricks for me?
Thanks, Nick[/quote]
I am a little confused here. I understand that the colours don’t always match the chips. But if you do a spray out card, and cannot get the same results as the card then it sounds like user error.
I used Cromax in a shop and a little in another shop. It does have its issues, but it is workable. Are you blending your colours out properly and able to see the blend/colour difference?
[quote=”Andy T” post=25471]Oh, and after further reading of various tech sheets (as you do…) both of Debeers etch (wash) primers specifically state not to be overcoated with epoxy primer.
Looks like I’m going back to how I always did it in the past – etch, wet on wet primer/sealer, base, clear :)[/quote]
Thats what I’ve usually done with aluminum. Etch, then sealer then top coat…wet on wet.
I recall some Epoxies I’ve used also saying not to use with etch, either. 😉
Does the DeBeer tech sheet allow the Epoxy to go straight over aluminum?
Welcome to the site. Lots of good guys here, and a lot of combined experience and knowledge.
What panel, a Mini Cooper front fender or a 1/4 on an Extended E-350 Van?
Its kind of a weird question, there are way to many variables. If you are trying to calculate cost, it is usually done based on refinish time. If you are trying to figure out how much material you need, see the post above. Most people get really good at estimating how much to mix after using a certain product for a little while.