Ben Hart
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I’ve used the Snap Dry LE5400. It is a very fast clear, good for smaller jobs (up to 2…maybe 3 panels if you are fast). It flashes relatively quick and is out of dust super fast. 2 hour air dry or about 20 minutes with a heat lamp, but be careful not to boil the stuff. Has a reasonable finish and is pretty easy yo use. Definitely not a high end clear, but plenty good for fleet work.
I haven’t tried the LE5100, but I have heard it is decent, it should be better for the medium-large jobs compared to the 5400. Again, not a high end product, but probably what I would choose for fleet.
I would think that 1 or both of these should do good in a fleet shop. If you happen to be doing lots of small jobs and blow ins, the 5400 would be ideal.
Are you guys using Cromax or Nason for your base?
[quote=”MetRamos” post=25343][quote=”Ben” post=25341]You are absolutely right about opinions…
I also agree with Ding. The Tekna is a great gun for base. I don’t think it is the best gun for clear, but as far as finish goes, you can most definitely get a good finish with it. If I were you I would stick with that for now. Clearing a job here or there with the Tekna is perfectly fine, but not the clear gun I would choose to use daily.
I personally like the SATA 4000 RP for clear, I like it better than the 3000. Jayson likes the earlier RP better, and it is a nice gun. But for me, the 4000 is what I am most comfortable with. I wouldn’t think of the first Gen RP as old and the 4000 as the newest and greatest…rather think of them as different variations of the same gun just modified for different preferences, just like clothing…one size of pants will fit you better than another.[/quote]
Ok thanks guys, I was just seeing the different views on the gun, I won’t be getting the 4000 anytime soon believe me haha , but later maybe I will, or maybe ill stick to my Tekna’s and be a die hard Devilbiss fan :whistle: , I’ve kind of wanted to also try Iwata. But like I said I won’t be getting a new gun anytime soon, just looking for different opinions on different guns .but I get what your saying Ben, the RP on Autobody toolmart stills goes for the same price as the 4000[/quote]
Thats good. Probably the best thing you can do in the mean time is try to get ahold of some of these guns (like the SATA and Iwata) and see if you can demo them. If you have sales reps for them, or sales reps from your local paint jobbers they may be able to lend you one to try. You could also talk to your instructor and see if he is willing to help you find some to demo.
[quote=”Glen440″ post=25335][quote=”ding”
So you were using structural adhesives for plastic repair :blink:[/quote]
I was told it was one product did everything. The shop owner is the one who told us to use it for plastic.
http://www.proformproducts.com/en/products/info/?product=201&category=24The 3m is a one product does everything. And it really does. Never had it not stick to plastic.
If they claim something, they better be able to do it.[/quote]
:blink:
We used tons of that Pro-Form when I was in the heavy truck shop. Great stuff. We used it to bond SMC and fiberglass (ie: rigid plastic) hoods together. It is supposed to get soft when heated, that is how you seperate parts (like on multi-piece hoods on Volvos and other trucks).
I can’t see that working at all of flexible plastic containing poly-olefin.
And the 3M panel bond, 8115, were you using that on plastics as well?
You are absolutely right about opinions…
I also agree with Ding. The Tekna is a great gun for base. I don’t think it is the best gun for clear, but as far as finish goes, you can most definitely get a good finish with it. If I were you I would stick with that for now. Clearing a job here or there with the Tekna is perfectly fine, but not the clear gun I would choose to use daily.
I personally like the SATA 4000 RP for clear, I like it better than the 3000. Jayson likes the earlier RP better, and it is a nice gun. But for me, the 4000 is what I am most comfortable with. I wouldn’t think of the first Gen RP as old and the 4000 as the newest and greatest…rather think of them as different variations of the same gun just modified for different preferences, just like clothing…one size of pants will fit you better than another.
Looks f-ing great Nex. Can’t complain about that at all.
Getting tired of bumpers yet?
Like Smooth said, we need a little more info.
In any case, everyone has their own preference for putty and its intended use. Calling it good is definitely subjective.
[quote=”thenextlevel” post=25244]My lighting is good, but not the best. I did hire a painter that can paint extremely well but he is slow. Trade off I guess.[/quote]
A little slow is ok, beats re-dos and pissed off customers.
The Hutchins is a good solid tool, but it is really heavy, bulky and outdated. I think most people (including myself) would recommend the Dynabrade. I’ve used the 3M a fair bit and it is nice as well. I do own a Chicago Pneumatic and it is a nice tool like the others.
At the end of the day, however, I would bet that the Dynabrade will last longer than the others, and they are easy (and relatively cheap) to service when the time comes.
I’ve seen a lot of nice jobs done by mixing whatever off of the standard mixing banks. You can get some real nice colours when you start playing around with it.
At a previous shop, we did a Custom job on a Dodge Ram using PPGs vibrance line. I did some of the body work, but someone else painted it.
Really, unless you are looking for a special effect colour (and therefore willing to spend the $$$) it is probably better to stick with what you have/know.
Why not have your instructor contact the Sherwin Williams rep and explain to them your situation. Sherwin Williams may give you guys a sample of their product to work with.
Most paint companies/suppliers would probably be willing to help you guys out
[quote=”vidar77″ post=25180]Ben, can I ask why its illegal to do that in Canada? They think it’ll lead to shoddy repairs or something??
.[/quote]
Curbing is illegally selling cars, generally from a person who is not licensed to sell cars. In Canada each province has a Motor Dealer Industry Council that is a 3rd party to dealers and regulated by the Government to ensure that vehicles are safe and of proper title when sold. In most provinces the Motor Dealer council requires all vehicles that are sold through a dealer to have been inspected and to be free of any liens and have a proper title with full disclosure (generally including a report like Carfax).
The whole principal behind the laws here, are to protect the consumer from fraud and other issues. Up here, if there is a lien on a vehicle, the lein can follow the vehicle from one owner to the other. In a private sale, liens should be disclosed but in some circumstances are not and the new owner can (in some instances) be 100% liable for the outstanding lien. If a vehicle has been in an accident over a certain value ($2000 in BC and Alberta), that will show on the vehicle history report. If the vehicle has been written off, the title is changed to salvage, then if it is rebuilt and re certified its title is changed to rebuilt.
So, a dealership must be licenced (as a business, just like any other business). The dealer is to be registered with the Motor Dealers council (to ensure that the dealer is known to the council and follows their code of conduct) and each individual sales person is required to be registered with the Motor dealer council (to show that the sales person follows the same procedures).
It is a lot of bueracracy, and there are still a lot of people that slip through, but in the end, it keeps the reputable business trustworthy.
There have been many vehilces sold privately (through curbers) that have leins, improper odometer reading, improper repairs, illegally importated from other countries, VIN tampering etc and the whole idea is to prevent this.
here is a link to the [url=http://www.amvic.org/main.htm]Alberta Motor Vehicle Industy Council[/url]
I’ve used the AWX a little bit.
Not the best product out there…but it can me made to work. I recommend spraying medium coats, do not apply too wet. Download the tech sheet and familiarize yourself with the specs ahead of time. If you are blending, use the wet bed.
The problems you might face are applying too wet (this stuff will run and mottle easier than other waterbourne base), colour match (although this may not be an issue if you are matching it to itself, or just panel painting.
As far as not having experience with water, do not worry about that part too much. Just familiarize yourself with the tech sheet and what to expect from the water. If you have never sprayed water base before, the most alarming thing may just be how it looks out of the gun. It will look almost a slightly different colour and may look “wetter” and thicker than solvent, and as it dries will look a littly splotchy where there are wet/dry areas. Once the base is flashed off, it will look “normal.” Only other pointer is to make use of the blowers (to help dry the base coat). They can be used between coats and while flashing before clear. If you are blowing, make sure the blower is about 3′ from the panel and blowing in an appropriate direction (to allow for optimal airflow for the booth you are in and how the parts are arranged as well as ensuring they won’t blow dust from anything that may be in the booth.
Lighting can be a problem, but it would have to be pretty bad. Once you have experience with your products you get a good feeling for it…
If you have audatex, I believe the add on for frame dimensions is cheaper through them, then through Mitchell.
I’m not sure where you are at, but in Canada it is illegal to do that. However, you can buy and sell a few cars here and there, but doing it as a business requires being licensed both as a car salesman and as a business.
In any case, there is money to be made if you are smart about what you buy. There is really no definitive answer as to weather you can make good money. You need to know your market, know the cars well and be a good salesman.
One very important thing I would like to mention is liability. Make sure to do things properly, have proper insurance in place etc…