Ben Hart
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Its hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like it is through the clear coat (and therefore have to be resprayed).
Painting silver isn’t any more challenging than most colours. A good painter should be able to get a reasonably good match to what is already there.I did notice 2 things in your picture though. 1. it looks like your bumper is lighter than the body. 2. the bumper looks like it has popped out of its retainer.
[quote=”Zarifpour” post=34482]Do you guys know what psi the sata 4000 rp, Hvlp and devilbiss tekna pro/prolite work best at? I want to make my choice based on this.[/quote]
Recommending a psi to answer your question is very difficult. It will vary depending on products/application. For example my Tekna I will use as low as 15psi for an orientation coat and up to 32 for clear. Why exactly do you want to know the psi? All the guns will be similar when spraying the same product, typically with only a few psi difference.
The poly primer would need to be sprayed with 2k primer surfacer (or at least a urethane sealer) before top coating.
Why strip the job, do your body work over the bare metal. Then buy a small quantity of etch primer for any remaining bare metal. You could buy a value brand 2k urethane primer surfacer (like Nason, Omni, Acme etc) and apply that. Block then finish sand the primer and topcoat with an Acrylic Urethane top coat (Single stage). This will be a very durable job and inexpensive if you buy the right stuff.
I just noticed a question earlier about what the real time saver/advantage is.
These cups are somewhat expensive compared to using your aluminum cup and cleaning it. However, for those of us with waterborne base, we aren’t suppose to use aluminum cups (plastic only). And keeping a plastic cup clean and in good condition is much harder than an aluminum cup in my opinion. So for basecoat, the disposable cups are really handy. Then you only have to clean the waterbourne base out of the gun body too.
I know many shops use the aluminum cups for sealer, clear etc, then puny use the disposable ones for base.
I haven’t tried it yet. They kept pushing back the date for our demo…
jimmo, so is your shop completely back to BASF now? What happened to DuPont/Axalta?
What I’ve been told is pretty much way 614paintworx said.
As for Sherwin Williams, they do not supply any exterior coatings on the OEM level. Their OEM paint is strictly used on interior parts. That is SW policy. I was told this is because they didn’t ever want to be liable for issues like Fords peeling trucks from the late 80s/early 90s and GM & Chrysler issues from over the years. I do see their point, but it also sounds like lack of faith in their product.
[quote=”jimmo” post=34297]Whats everyones thoughts on the 3M tackpad? I used it for a while and stopped, can’t remember why.[/quote]
I tried them and didn’t like them. They are expensive, don’t seem to last too long and not tacky enough for me. I found they wouldn’t get some panels clean enough.
If anything, they would be ok for tacking between coats of base/before clear.
I’m still just a big fan of the Uni-rag I guess.
I used Cromax 4+ years ago when first switching to waterbourne. I really liked it at the time, but since then I’ve used a few other brands which has swayed my opinion. I’m not sure that I would want to go back now that I’ve seen what else is out there.
Jimmo gave great advice on the blends. That’s the same method I used with good results. 3 stage and large jobs were sprayed different than conventionally, but it did work. I think using the spectrophotometer is almost a requirement for matching certain colours, but I’ve heard the matching has gotten a lot better since I’ve used it.
Welcome to the site.
Do you have any specific goals in mind for what you are trying to learn? Maybe an old project car you would like to restore?
Welcome to the site from Alberta Canada. I believe there are a few other members here from Florida.
Are you working in a dealer or independent shop? What paint system are you using down there? I can imagine the spraying environment being quite different down there: you must deal with high temperature and humidity.
I’ve used the 3M and SATA. I do think I like the SATA a little better.
However, back around June or so I switched to the new Devilbiss Gunner cups. I’ve demoed the DeKups and the Gunner ones are infinitely superior. Pricing wise the 2 Devilbiss systems are the same (at least in our area). The Gunner cups are easy to use, and remind me of the SATA, bit with 2 main differences. There are no threads on the lid (very tite and well sealed snap fit) and the vent is in the lid (upside down). Because the vent is in the lid, there is a tube on the lid and it has to be bled before spraying (kinda like the 3M). Like all of these disposable cups it is unique in its own way and needs to be used as directed.
I really like the Gunner cups, but do think the SATA may be just a little better, but here we paid 18% less for the Devilbiss. For anyone interested in a quality product at a more competitive price than 3M or SATA I highly recommend doing a demo with the Gunner cups.
As nerve wracking as it can be, I’ve never had an issue with any brand if lube in the shop.
I imagine that so long as everyone is respectful of the products and the painter cleans the panels properly, there shouldn’t be issues.
Thanks for all the nice comments everyone. My camera died a while back, so I’m just using the crappy one on my ipod. I like working on the Asian cars, Jack, but I’m making sure to save all the Subaru’s for you.
NFT5-
Here, Autobody Technician and Automotive Refinisher are 2 separate trades, but apprentices are strongly encouraged to do both (like I did). Automotive Service Technician (Mechanic) is a separate trade from body. Here you have to be licenced to perform any of these tasks. However, there is some overlap in training. As a Body Tech, we have training and are allowed to perform some mechanical repairs that are collision related (suspension steering, brakes, a/c, exhaust, wheel alignments, airbags, and basic R&I of most components). However, many body techs/shops will sublet repairs to a mechanic.As a rough example of the current training, about 1/2 of a body techs apprenticeship is sheet metal repair (welding, body filler, metal working, minor panel replacement, prepping etc), 1/4 is frame/structural repair and major panel replacement, and 1/4 is mechanical.
I wonder if Smooth can recommend a fast Nexa clear. I’m familiar with the PPG branded low voc clears, but appearantly the Nexa ones are much nicer. The clear coat is the weak link in the PPG low voc system, in my opinion.
As far as saying there are no low VOC clear as fast and nice looking as the DC2000, I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised if you get a chance to try some.
One thing that I see a huge concern is using the 1 k primer. Waterbourne just doesn’t stick to 1k lacquer and acrylic primers. It will eventually all peel off. There are a lot of fast low voc 2k urethane primers. One of ours is pre flexed, DTM and air dry in about 20-30 minutes ( and in the full lifetime warranty). I know you don’t want to spend the $ on the 2k, but with waterbourne it is not an option at all.
Your silvers and golds should do well over 600 grit (and a grey scuff pad). When I used PPG water, there were no issues with scratches showing or sinking in later. Maybe this has more to do with spraying over fresh 1k primer.
Waterbourne can be very fast, but a lot of things can slow it down (temperature, humidity, heavy/improper application, poor airflow, poor prep work).
PPG has one of the best waterbourne systems out there. There are quite a few of us on here who have previously/currently use it and may be able to help you some more.
What clears are you using?