Ben Hart
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We use CBP250 for our primer surfacer and sealer. Only had it do that to me once as a surfacer. I think that was a job I hosed the shit on though. Never had any other issues like that with it, it is a good product and sands very, very well.
I’ve painted a lot of bike tanks (mostly solid colour and 2/3 tone jobs, nothing fancy) on OEM tanks. I usually check where the factory painted to when I begin and mask my line there. It is usually just outside of the seal for the gas cap. I’ve personally never seen one of mine have issues, and the bare metal area around the seal never seems to corrode.
Don’t know if I’m just lucky or what, but it has worked well for me.
[quote=”lild” post=23570]so ya’ll saw that huh? ok, lets see here, excuse #1, we left the belt molding on, due to the fact it has a tab made into it, and we tear the paint up putting it back on. #2 there’s a black rail guard that is double sided taped on, and the box sits on that, didn’t want to tear the pad up gettin it off. #3 i like to test my skills so i left the bumper on, plus if i took it off it would have totaled out the truck……
but at least i did take the eblem off, and to make up for the other stuff, i painted the other door molding free of charge. so ha.[/quote]
Do you come up with the excuses before or after the job is done? I like to use a magic 8 ball to make my decisions…should I leave the belt moulding on…”it is decidedly so.” :rofl
[quote=”Jayson M” post=23567]And the box and bumper :chair :rofl :rofl[/quote]I enjyoyed seeind the belt moulding on the rear door and the front cover.
Just a little below you to have the easy stuff taken off :p
Great looking boat now!
Hope he at least takes you out in it for all your effort…
[quote=”Jayson M” post=23531]Wb hardener has been out for about 6 months,the only place I would use it is on a front bumper cover where rock chips are inevitable.You add 5% to your base,mix it then add your WB activator.Can’t see how it will increase your potlife,every time I use it the base is jello the next day.They also say that sprayability doesn’t change but I think it does.Hard to say if this is the fix,I was told not to use it on everything,just areas prone to chipping.You can also use HS+LV hardener if you can’t get the wb hardener.[/quote]
The hardener won’t increase pot life at all, but rather than having a short pot life of hardened base, the base is suppose to be sprayable for up to a couple of days. The last one I activated I kept an eye on and it looked like it may still be sprayable after 3 days. Apparently there was a shortage on the product, so it wasn’t really available until recently. As for sprayability, I have only used it a handful of times. Seems to me that the metallic control is affected slightly, have you noticed that at all?
They never told me not to use it, but they certainly want it used on anything susceptable to chipping. The national rep was at the shop recently and was talking to us about the product and their testing with it. He said that the biggest area they have had issues with the chips peeling, in North America, is here in Alberta.
Thw WB hardener is new. The problem that has been happening is that sometimes when a rock chip occurs, water was able to reabsorb into the base and decrease the adhesion between the base and clear. The resulting problem was that some vehicles were having the clear peel back real nasty after stone chips occurred. And just like any solvent base, you get the same sort of advantages when hardener is added.
The under hood additive works similarly, but it is a different technology. The WB hardener mixes into the base better but allows for a longer pot life (pot life, for some reason, varies by colour, up to several days). I was told that the WB hardener is the hardener that is used in Europe with the waterbased clear.
[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=23466][quote=”Jayson M” post=23465]It’s all good U.P.P. everyones opinion is useful and we all spray different.That’s what makes this site great,it has more guys who spray everday than any other on the net.I have never really been able to love my 3000rp,it is a nice gun,sprays everything really well,but I like my first gen rp and 4000rp better.If you tried a 1.4 in the 4000rp it will handle those clears better,I changed out my 1.3 and it performs like a dream.I have never liked the digital versions of any model RP,I have always used non digital for comfort.[/quote]
Im not opposed to trying the 1.4, thats what my lph is. I just have had poor results using HS+ and Energy pro. It did great with sherwin clears and Pro Air. Im just not a fast hoser type painter. I would say I am medium speed sprayer. The 4000 is a touch slower than the 3000 but I actually liked it. I felt as if I had more control than I do when I use a 3000 rp 1.3.[/quote]
I haven’t used those clears, but as I mentioned before, now that I’ve been using the 4000 for several months, I do indeed like it. The 3000 was a little fast and sloppy for me. I do like the 2000 better than the 3000, though. The 4000 is a hair on the slow side, but I am happy to work at its speed and make it do what I want effortlessly.
Just like Jayson, I have the 1.4 in it using the Superior 250.
That Ford looks nice indeed. Glad to see its still working hard…
So how much glue did you use putting the Honda back together? :p
nice pics, but I’m more interested in that brown Ford with the plow setup…
We had one at the heavy truck shop I worked in. But everything we sprayed was solvent, and a lot of it. Cleaning the pressure pots took a lot of solvent, but the automatic gun washer had an attachment for the pressure pot lines.
There, we bought high grade thinner and recycled it. We used the older stuff for pre cleaning dirty trucks (oil field trucks covered in noxious crude).
The solvent recycler was used about once a week (to do about 15 litres). In todays shop, I agree with Ryan, we use such a small amount of solvent that it wouldn’t be worth it, especially in our shop where space is almost non-existant.
Looks good Bondo!
And that is exactly what Omni is designed for…
What?
Try some other brands and use some blowers. Several of the water base coats can be very fast. I am currently using Autowave in a 25 year old down draft booth, with no modifications. Just a couple inexpensive blowers in there and it works very fast. PPG and DuPont were both fast to use as well. There are a lot of shops out there pushing massive volume with water…
[quote=”seigfredm” post=23381]Hi there,
Still kinda new to the hobby and still learning.
Why is it that both paint stores I went to say do not reduce the clear when I’ve been told by quite a few people that you can actually reduce the clear coat by 10% to help with the orange peel.
If I were to reduce the clear, can I just use any universal reducer? should I just use it on the last coat and does that change the flash time requirement?
I tried the Omni, Matrix and Finish1 brand clearcoat and none of them mention a reducer in the techsheet or maybe I just don’t understand the term used in there.
I’m having better luck with the clearcoat since I used the Astro HTE with 1.3 tip, at least much better compared to my harbor freight gun but I’m still getting a bit of orange peel but I heard reducing clear rally lays down clear flat.Need any info or advice from the refinish gurus or anybody.
Thanks in advance[/quote]
Well…
Follow the tech sheet. That is the best way to mix the products. Some clears require mixing the clear with hardener and reducer. Some just require the hardener. The only difference is that the reducer in some products is already in with the hardener and/or clear. Makes for more simple mixing and less products required to stock. Do not add more of the hardener to the mix, even if it is also the reducer.
As far as adding extra reducer, I don’t recommend this since you are fairly new to this. As professionals, we know what we are doing and know the products we use everyday quite well. Some products spray great as is, others can bennefit from slightly more reducer. More reducer can help when painting large jobs, hot conditions and overall finish with some products. Other products can be worse with more reducer and cause problems. More reducer can also increase the chances of runs.
I suggest sticking to the proper mix for now and hone in on your skills the best you can. Most products can lay down very nice and flat without extra reducer if you do everything else well.
Wow…lol
I am sure that is how some customers feel indeed. Good job on the video.