Ben Hart
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[quote=”mikevanunen” post=23368]Thanks for that info. I think im gona give the concept a try after this bike. I know its meant for fleets, but for 130 for a gallon kit
its hard to switch because the few peaces I finaly finished are indeed awsome.
If I went base coat clear coat, and had some inperfections in the base, could I sand the base all the way to 3000grit and clear it or would the sand scratches show under the clear?[/quote]if you sand the base, you will need to rebase over it before clearing.
The essential is reasonably priced, but so is the Concept. I am sure you will enjoy the concept.
I used Delfleet Evolution and Essential for a little while. It is a good quality Polyurethane intended for fleet work/larger jobs. It is intended to be very slow for the large jobs. If you are just painting motorcycle parts in a non-bake situation than you are kinda using the wrong product. If you like PPG you may want to switch to the Concept single stage. It is a heck of a lot faster, looks just as good and is much easier to buff after.
If you are dedicated to the Delfleet, then buy some fast activator. Fast activator is needed on just about anything that is smaller than a complete, especially if you aren’t baking it. I wouldn’t buff it at all, it is very difficult, especially on black, but with the right products and patience it can be done.
One other note, you said you are using polyester primer. You should be using a urethane primer surfacer over top of this or at least a urethane or epoxy sealer. It is not usually a great idea to be painting over top of polyester primer.
I will say again, though, consider trying a different product if you are just doing small parts. I can guarantee that you will like the Concepts single stage a lot.
[quote=”bobwires” post=23276][quote=”Ben” post=23271]If you are just doing the exterior and not going too nuts removing parts and trim you can have the job done in 2-3 days if you work hard.
If you are literally just looking for a splash and dash, I would remove all the easy stuff (tail lights, rear bumper, mirrors, belt moulding door handles). Prep the truck from one end to the other for paint, mask it, fix the small dents and spot prime those areas, sand the primed areas the next day and go straight to paint without re-masking. Let it dry overnight and on the 3rd day put it together. Definitely NOT the best way to do the work, but if you are careful you could get a decent looking job out of it like that.
I’m not sure what you mean by the door jambs being an issue?[/quote]
What I’m getting at is I’ve never been any good at spot priming :lol1 I always end up blasting a whole area, and it gets me in trouble. at the edges of the door I’ve got to prime them, and that’s no biggie, but in the jamb if I get a hard line of primer I guess I’ll just have to carefully feather them down and foam tape it for paint. I’m just looking to save time if I take on this job…
Thanks a lot Ben.[/quote]
For the spot priming, just dial the gun down (using lower pressure, fan and fluid dialed in more). For your jambs you can still use the foam tape. If you prime with low pressure you won’t get much in there and the little that may should get covered by the paint just fine, which will be sprayed at full/normal pressure.
Alternately, you can back mask the door edges for your primer…
obviously blending clear isn’t the best way to do a job, but if you are you should not clear up to any edge. It is better to prep the blend area ultra fine (like with a gold scotch brite pad or fine paper like 1500 wet). When you blend you will be masking, but one of the better ways is to throw a piece of paper over the area you are blending, but not let it touch the panel you are spraying (kind of tent it up about 1/8″ off the panel). Keep your clear away from it as only the overspray will be going arounnd there. Make sure to use some blending solvent in your second coat of clear and if necessary shoot a little blending solvent over the blend area.
If you haven’t blended clear before you may not get it right. It takes a lot of practice to do a nice job of it.
If you are just doing the exterior and not going too nuts removing parts and trim you can have the job done in 2-3 days if you work hard.
If you are literally just looking for a splash and dash, I would remove all the easy stuff (tail lights, rear bumper, mirrors, belt moulding door handles). Prep the truck from one end to the other for paint, mask it, fix the small dents and spot prime those areas, sand the primed areas the next day and go straight to paint without re-masking. Let it dry overnight and on the 3rd day put it together. Definitely NOT the best way to do the work, but if you are careful you could get a decent looking job out of it like that.
I’m not sure what you mean by the door jambs being an issue?
[quote=”Red Baron” post=23225][quote=”Ben” post=23used a used Sata NR95 with a 1.5 or 1.6, it would work great as well. ![/quote]
:sick:Sacrilege.[/quote]
Have you never seen a Cadillac with a snow plow? Whats wrong with priming with a NR95 :p
Peel depends. If it is just one smaller area and not too bad it can definately be sanded and polished if there is enough material there. You will want to use a block with your paper and start with a coarser grit. Everyone is different as to how coarse they will start will. Personally I would start with 1200 and work up to at least 2000 before polishing. Use the 1200 to remove the orange peel and the finer grits to refine the 1200 scratches. Just be careful not to burn through, particularly on any edges/bodylines.
Alternately, if you were to reclear it, all you need to do is sand it with 600-800 (dry, or 800-1000 wet) to remove the orange peel, then clear over as needed. If you are clearing, you do not need to sand any finer than that. Again, you want to be careful not to sand through the clear, if you do, you will need to rebase over any burn throughs and blend it out.
I can’t tell you which is the better procedure for you, it all depends on how bad the peel is, what equipment/supplies you have avaliable and what your skill and comfort levels are.
Good luck
Most guns spray primer decent. I would recommend something with about a 1.5 needle/nozzle set if you are spraying typical 2k urethane primer. I wouldn’t spend too much on a primer gun, though. The 3M PPS primer gun is great if you are using the PPS cups. If you can find a used Sata NR95 with a 1.5 or 1.6, it would work great as well. I used a cheap chinese gun with a 1.5 for years. Like I said, most any gun will do, an HVLP is probably the best bet.
If you find something and you aren’t sure, just ask!
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=23218][quote=”Ben” post=23214][quote=”bondomerchant” post=23211][quote=”ding” post=23202][quote=”Ben” post=23197]Looks good Ding. I like that green!
I did notice in the 4th pic, that the front and rear wheels look like they aren’t centred in the wheel wells, is the wheelbase ok, how did the alignment go, or is that front one just turned to the left a bit? I know they aren’t always centred and the tracking spec can be +/- an inch or so, sometimes they are just gay like that…[/quote]
I notice that in the pix too. so i went out this morning and double checked. every thing is good. the wheels were turned some and i think between that and the angle of the pix it looks screwed up. didnt have it aligned yet but surprisingly the steering wheel is centered and it goes down the road straight :dnc[/quote]
ya ive heard that story b4 :lol1 :lol1 just make sure an rotate the shit outta the tires so they all scrub off at the same time :nothingtoad[/quote]So you charge for your alignments and do em your self Bondo…just some string and a tape measure. I can just hear you saying to your self…Set the toe and let it go… :rofl[/quote]
actually i got turntables an gauges for setting em an a freind thats been doing alignments since the early 70s there way more than setting em right than that ….but ya canucks probably figure a toe set is good enuff :p :p :p[/quote]1 dimensional 2wheel alignments are good enough. If you want any better, then you are too picky :lol1
I’ve used the Snap on/John Beam unit before and was also taught with manually with the real old Chief caster/camber heads. Interesting to know and makes it easier to get the suspension close when doing any pulling. Then the alignemnt guy likes you later
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=23215]well im still waiting for that erection that lasts for more than 4 hrs :weights :weights :weights :lol1[/quote]
Are you suggesting it isn’t suppose to? :blush:
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=23211][quote=”ding” post=23202][quote=”Ben” post=23197]Looks good Ding. I like that green!
I did notice in the 4th pic, that the front and rear wheels look like they aren’t centred in the wheel wells, is the wheelbase ok, how did the alignment go, or is that front one just turned to the left a bit? I know they aren’t always centred and the tracking spec can be +/- an inch or so, sometimes they are just gay like that…[/quote]
I notice that in the pix too. so i went out this morning and double checked. every thing is good. the wheels were turned some and i think between that and the angle of the pix it looks screwed up. didnt have it aligned yet but surprisingly the steering wheel is centered and it goes down the road straight :dnc[/quote]
ya ive heard that story b4 :lol1 :lol1 just make sure an rotate the shit outta the tires so they all scrub off at the same time :nothingtoad[/quote]So you charge for your alignments and do em your self Bondo…just some string and a tape measure. I can just hear you saying to your self…Set the toe and let it go… :rofl
man, between all that viagra and hard work you’re looking younger and younger Bondo.
I remember doing all that when I was a kid. First we got wood for ourselves and family, then if there was much good weather and wood left we would sell it to others. Thankfully, never run out by spring.
[quote=”ding” post=23202][quote=”Ben” post=23197]Looks good Ding. I like that green!
I did notice in the 4th pic, that the front and rear wheels look like they aren’t centred in the wheel wells, is the wheelbase ok, how did the alignment go, or is that front one just turned to the left a bit? I know they aren’t always centred and the tracking spec can be +/- an inch or so, sometimes they are just gay like that…[/quote]
I notice that in the pix too. so i went out this morning and double checked. every thing is good. the wheels were turned some and i think between that and the angle of the pix it looks screwed up. didnt have it aligned yet but surprisingly the steering wheel is centered and it goes down the road straight :dnc[/quote]Sounds good.
We get a lot of full size trucks in the shop that look kinda funny like that, set them up for the alignment though and they are good as gold. What are you plans for the truck now, keep it, sell it? I am sure after all this time you’d love to see it go… :whistle:
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=23196][quote=”bobwires” post=23190]is there a way to improve WB toners shelf life?[/quote]
Use them :p but really PPG toners are good for like 3 years, which if your not going through a toner in 3 years you really don’t need a mixing machine. I have a few on my shelf that are odd toners and they have been on past the shelf life and they are fine still.[/quote]
I have found that so long as they don’t freeze and that they are sealed well, they will last quite a while. Most of the Sikkens toners have a shelf life of about 3 years too, IIRC…
Looks good Ding. I like that green!
I did notice in the 4th pic, that the front and rear wheels look like they aren’t centred in the wheel wells, is the wheelbase ok, how did the alignment go, or is that front one just turned to the left a bit? I know they aren’t always centred and the tracking spec can be +/- an inch or so, sometimes they are just gay like that…