Ben Hart

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Viewing 15 posts - 736 through 750 (of 1,371 total)
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  • August 5, 2011 at 2:34 am #32102

    Depending on the style of door lock hole, you may want to cut it out. If it is stamped from the factory, there is probably a high area around the hole from the metal being stretched in the stamping process. If you weld up to that, you might not be able to get it straight.

    As for the warping, make sure you are using an appropriate welder (with a good shielding gas). Take your time, stitch welding may work good for this. If you try to weld too much at once, you will get too much heat and warp it.

    August 4, 2011 at 3:02 am #32069

    [quote=”lild” post=21612]The new sealers for the envirobase are much better than the ols stuff. 10-15 min,flash.[/quote]

    They are very nice to use, and they lay down VERY flat

    August 3, 2011 at 4:53 am #32051

    [quote=”CHAD DREHER” post=21593]WHICH ONE HAS MORE SPECIAL COLORS, BASF HAS FOOSE AND WHAT DOES PPG HAVE?[/quote]

    Sikkens is a great line. Not sure about cost compared to PPG, I would think PPG may be slightly cheaper. PPG has a low VOC line of custom/special effects colours and uaually has formulas for many hard to find colours

    August 3, 2011 at 4:26 am #32046

    [quote=”ding” post=21581][quote=”Jayson M” post=21580]Basf is not a true waterborne,still solvent toners with a waterborne binder,also has to be mixed on a machine twice a day.Slow to dry,hard to repair,not user friendly.
    Enviro base has good color match,true waterborne, only needs a couple of shakes before you pour,fast drying,easy to use,good metallic control.I would also put money on ppg being less expensive compared to basf.[/quote]
    No Sikkens plug :pcorn:[/quote]

    That PPG base is almost the same as Sikkens, so out of the 2 choices its as close as you can get 😆

    I’ve personally never used 90 line, but I have used envirobase. I would happily recommend PPG, it is a great system that is easy to use. My only complaint is that the EC 700/750 clears are a little finicky and will take some getting use to. But there are other clears available if they don’t suit your fancy.

    August 3, 2011 at 4:21 am #32045

    [quote=”MoCoke” post=21584]lol, yea the duplicolor truck bed coating in aerosol is a life saver. i used it on some headlight bezels, inner door bottoms, inner fenders… you name it :whistle:[/quote]

    I’ve used it for some interesting things, and it gives a great finish…just never thought of doing interior panels.

    Looks great Nex!

    August 3, 2011 at 4:18 am #32044

    [quote=”lild” post=21586]… the bodyman puts 20 coats of primer on in one shot…[/quote]

    wow, your bodymen must be super skilled! :rofl

    August 3, 2011 at 4:16 am #32043

    [quote=”lild” post=21583]the funny thing is you won’t find tri coats on european cars. but in all honestly, after spraying a few, you’ll know how many coats to put on.[/quote]

    They can suck if you let them. But if your ground colour is decent and you have enough room to blend they can be fairly easy. I usually do a let down panel (or series of spray out cards with more mid coat on each progressive card). Generally, however, I find 3 midcoats usually hits the spot. Some paint manufacturers have 2 coat formulas for tri-stage that can work out well. I generally prefer the blendability and control of doing them as a tri-stage, though.

    August 3, 2011 at 1:36 am #32030

    [quote=”smooth” post=21563]in my shop i take on a job and my partner takes on a job, i like doing this because it takes out all the guess work from passing the job from me to him . that way i can follow it all the way to the end with no surprises. i know thats not what all bodyshops do but that the way i like doing it. if their is a mishap we know whos to blame.[/quote]

    I work at a small GM dealer. There is myself and 1 other guy in the shop. We work the same way, doing our own jobs start to finish. Works out great for the both of us, the quality is very good and I can’t remember any comebacks from our work.

    …although we seem to be getting quite a few comebacks from the painter that worked there before me. :chair

    July 25, 2011 at 7:47 am #31886

    just another tip…

    Jayson is right that blocking with too fine of paper(or worn out paper) may make it less straight. I usually finish body work with 80 (filler) or 120 (putty). When I think I am done, I will run a few passes over it with 220…not to get it straighter, but just enough to make it feel smoother. This will make it easier to feel the panel. When feeling the panel, don’t look at it, if you can feel any transitions from paint to metal to filler, you are not done. Feel it at a medium speed, not too slow, not too fast…

    there are a lot of tricks to getting the panel straight, but if you can’t master feeling the panel, they won’t do you any good.

    July 25, 2011 at 7:36 am #31885

    looks good Bondo. I didn’t realize you had spray out cards in the shop, though :p

    July 22, 2011 at 6:08 am #31843

    [quote=”ding” post=21395]ya. that peice is held on by 4 10mm nuts from inside the trunk. take about 5 minutes to change. might cost you $20 at a junk yard. can probably even find it in color. you would spend way more time and money trying to fix it[/quote]

    :agree

    not worth fixing at all.

    July 15, 2011 at 7:14 am #31769

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=21330]I know what I would do……just call them and tell them to come get their “F@#King paint”!!!! :rofl :rofl :rofl Just kidding hope ya get it figured out.[/quote]

    Just don’t threaten to switch to Martin Senour…you want them to take you seriously :p

    July 15, 2011 at 7:11 am #31768

    are you using a body hammer with the studs? You should only be using the slide hammer to get the heavy/deep dents out. To finish the dent you need to pull on the stud and gently work any high areas towards the low areas (where the stud is). Afterwards you can remove the stud and finesse it a little more with the hammer if needed. Looks like you are getting some tits from stretching the metal with the studs.

    keep it up, and keep posting pis of the progress!

    July 14, 2011 at 4:34 pm #31752

    [quote=”autopainter84″ post=21308]ben… what problems or issues have u had with cromax???[/quote]

    The only real issue I have had is colour match, and when I first started using it a little trouble with metallic control. I have seen the cratering once or twice. As far as drying the base, using the blowers is probably a lot more beneficial than trying to bake the base. If anything, I would maybe just turn the heat up (rather than bake) and blow the F*** out of it. The blowers are your friend.

    Being in Vancouver, do you use CMAX for your paint? If you do, they can order in Spies products for you, if you want to try their clears.

    July 14, 2011 at 6:32 am #31734

    [quote=”bondomerchant” post=21299]looking good just remember those outside edges are ur freind ya dont wanna bury an oilcan trust me 😉 :weights :weights :weights[/quote]

    Very, very true!

Viewing 15 posts - 736 through 750 (of 1,371 total)