Ben Hart
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I used to do a lot of striping on heavy trucks (mostly single stage).
Typically paint the main colour (base and clear). After it has dried, lay your stripes out and gently prep the areas with fine paper and very gently prep the edges with a scotch brite pad (making sure not to ruin your masking). The blue fine line tape seems to be durable enough for this…I would use a grey scotch brite on the edges, only moving in line with the tape. Then spray your matte colour for the stripe (matte black single stage perhaps).
If you spray the stripe relatively soon after clearing the main colour, the clear should be fresh enough to allow good adhesion of the second colour (obviously you still need to scuff it very well). Check your tech sheets as per recoat times, you don’t want to go too soon, either.
If anyone has alternate ways I would like to hear them as well.
[quote=”jim c” post=20788]ben, well compared to the sprayable stuff as far as the jobs being cleaner its pretty much the same. the sprayable stuff i was using was evercoat’s tackycoat which stayed slimy on the walls of the booth. that stuff certaintly did work. you would not believe what you would find stuck to the walls after a week. problem with that stuff is its expensive because you have to wash it off and reapply every booth cleaning or 2 weeks. the price adds up where the 3m is just once or twice a year to put it on. as i said too booth cleaning time is cut in half or more. all in all though compared to having nothing on the walls or just a nontacky booth coating…yes there is a difference. you do get cleaner jobs with it. i think it would make a really big difference if it was used on the floor too, i’m just not paying for it. thats the expensive part to do since it will need to be changed often.[/quote]
Interesting…just pressure washed the booth yesterday and reapplied the standard spray coating. Easy enough job, all in all. However, the more I think about it, the more I like the idea of this 3M film. Does the film feel tacky? Is it relatively durable (won’t rip easy if something touches the wall).
We use magnetic stands that attach to the walls for our blowers, so we need the product on the wall to be able to allow us to move the magnetic stands around and not destroy our protection.
[quote=”jim c” post=20775]i use it in my booth on the walls, not the floor. now prior to this i was powerwashing the booth, using paper on the floor and coating the walls with a tacky booth coating. that all worked great. i switched to the 3m stuff and i will say this, its expensive initally but it actually turns out to be sooooo much cheaper in the long run its not funny and it works just as well. now i can clean the booth in a fraction of the time because i dont have to powerwash it, wit for it to dry and apply the booth coating. they tell you it lasts 3 months. i have had mine on my booth walls now for atleast a year. its finally about due to be changed. when i sweep the floor i just take a fairly clean broom and brush the walls off. the stuff thats trapped brushes off fairily easy and your good to go. i still put booth paper down on the floor and that gets changed with the filters. i like the floor to be nice and clean each booth cleaning. to change the 3m stuff on the floor every time would get extremely expensive. i have heard they were comming out with it in wide rolls for the floor. i have still not tried ryan’s carpeting for the floor. i’ve looked around but cant find it wide enough to do my floor. homedepot and lowes here only have it 12ft wide and i dont want to seam it. if i could find it i would be all over that as it seems like it would be just like the dirt trap system.[/quote]
Good review…
Do you find it to actually keep the booth cleaner than the sprayable coating?
I used to do sandblasting at a shop. I have never used soda, however. I believe the issue with adhesion is due to 2 things. The first is that the soda residue has to be completely cleaned off afterwards, and secondly, the soda does not leave much of any abrasion on the metal, so the metal needs to be sanded afterwards (i would think 180 would be pretty good).
I like epoxy myslef, but I wonder if using a good etch to bite into the metal would be better in this instance.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=20760]There isn’t a whole lot to read from. Your best bet would be to attend a color matching course through your paint company.
Some quick advice would be to try and not use the kill color method. It has it’s uses but overall doesn’t work most of the time. It’s always better to remix and leave out the color there is too much of than to kill.
Also if your picking a variant to tint I always go for the one that has a close match in metallic size and brilliance. I would rather pick one that is too yellow or blue and just leave out some of the culprit toner.
Get a toner wall chart also. It will tell you what the toner looks like mixed with a metallic, and either black or white. It will help when tinting to figure out what it will do and the strength of it.
Another tip, it is usually quicker and cheaper to just eat the blend and get the job done. I can knock down and tape of a fender in no time, if I have to adjust the color more than once or twice I have already lost money compared to blending.[/quote]
Listen to Ryan…that is all excellent advice.
When I went to school we had a decent text book for autobody repair, the paint section had some basic info on colour theory. The best info I got was from the school itself.
[quote=”jimmo” post=20670]Id give anything (except time and patience) to be able to do that, awesome work brother![/quote]
me too :whistle:
[quote=”lebanontn” post=20681]im painting in black and yes i can afford. im looking for bragging rights against my brother who claims he knows what he is doing but i dont think he is very good..lol… does the type of paint matter for my job?
he dealt with water based paint and really didnt turn out very well on a z.[/quote]Well…here is an option that may be easier. Black is generally easy to match, you really don’t need to blend it, especially on a tailgate. You may want to try spraying the tailgate in Single Stage rather than base clear. There are fewer steps, it is cheaper and a little easier, imho. And single stage can look just as good as base/clear. UA should be your paint code…
Feather edging (feathering) refers to sanding one or more layers of paint (and undercoats) back to a smooth transition. Improper feathering generally leads to a wavy finish. Once feathered back, several coats of primer (usually 3) are sprayed over top, then blocked flat when dry. This allows the primer to fill in the area that is sanded to become level with the existing paint. These three steps are referred to as “feather, prime and block.” They are some of the most crucial steps in getting any work straight.
You need to figure out what products you are buying before we can tell you the exact steps. There are different products avaliable and although most are similar, there are often different processes required with using them. Tech. Sheets for the product will tell you how to mix it and apply it, how long it takes to dry and recommended grits of sandpaper. We can give you some general guidelines for now, though.
A D.A. sander is probably the best tool for feathering your paint back (although it can be done more slowly with a block, by hand). You can start with any grit you want. I would recommend anything from 80-220. finish with 320 before priming. The primer, once fully dried, can be blocked with 320-400, some people will go coarser to start (180, 220 or 280). I prefer dry sanding most of the time, but wetsanding is an option too. If wetsanding, generally go 1 step finer than you would dry. Once blocked with 400, you can move to 500 and sand the entire tailgate (if you are painting the whole thing either with single stage or base/clear). You can finish finer, if you want (up to 800 is generally good). When sanding, it is best to use the 100 grit rule (avoid moving from one grit to the next by jumping more than 100 grit at a time, or the next avaliable grit…eg, 80, then 120, 220, 320, 400, 500, 600, 800 etc). If you do decide to go base/clear and blend the base you should clear the whole panel. The steps for sanding this are slightly different…
You obviously have a lot of questions, maybe search through the forums and online a bit to see if you can get a clearer vision of the big picture. I believe there are some good videos from this site on youtube.
[quote=”Wydir” post=20668]what I would do is sandout the paint chip and feather edge around it a few inches then use a primer to build up the area start with a small first pass and the second coat go a little further and the third past the second to create a smooth transition
third coat……..———————
second coat…….————
first cost…………….—–sand with 220-320 up to 600 if you so desire rebase the spot gray scuff the rest of the gate and reclear
since there is no dent you should not be using a filler (unless you mean a roll on primer but then you should be using a foam roller not a brush)
Also 1000 grit is kinda over kill well to me anyway I base over 320 most of the time with no problems at all I have gone to 600 thoas for a decent gun check on Sharpe and Devilbiss you can get a starting line set from Devilbiss for under $150.00 for 3 gun set. I have used them before not bad and beats spending 2k for a good set of guns that you will need a big air system to run.[/quote]
That is basically it.
You want to feather that back, otherwise anything you fill it with may sink in and/or possibly have poor adhesion. Feathering back also allows you to remove any oxidization (surface rust) that may have occurred in that area. Any half decent 2k urethane primer will work well for you to hide the repair, just read the label as most require etch primer over the bare metal first.
Not to discourage you from the repair, but from the sounds of it, if you need to buy all the tools, supplies etc to do this job, it will probably be cheaper to have a shop do it for you…unless you are ok spending the money as a learning experience or what not.
What colour are you painting?
you are best off having a regulator at the gun.
If you don’t want to spend a fortune, the sharpe and devilbiss regulators are accurate and fairly inexpensive. I have a bunch of the regular devilbiss regulators and 2 of their digital regulators.
As far as the “fog” goes, an RP spraying wide open around 30 psi will put out a lot of material…without a ton of airflow it will tend to do that. If your paint is spraying/laying down nice, then your regulator may not be off much or at all.
That’s interesting…
There is an aftermarket parts company here that was bought out a little while ago by another after market parts company…one of them/the new company has been distributing DuPont for a few years now, they were bought out by Keystone not all that long ago. So, basically here, Keystone is a DuPont distributor :blink:
Its kinda plain…but tastefully done. Looks great!
[quote=”jim c” post=20539]…cool doesn’t come in a can.[/quote]
There’s the quote of the day 😉
I’ve played around with a few basic techniques with the gun and airbrush. Kind of neat, and some things are relatively easy…but an artist I am definately not.
HOK has/had a series of good videos, don’t know if you can buy them…maybe there are some on youtube. I liked their videos since they use their products and explain how to use them in different ways to get custom finishes, and the videos seemed to give a little troubleshooting advice.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=20525]SwissVax Opaque is made for Matt finishes.[/quote]
Never heard of that…
I have, however, heard of people using black shoe polish (on black of course).
Sandblasting is the way to go.
I am not sure about where you are, but out here there is a place you can take stuff to, to sandblast yourself.
I don’t know that I would attempt it outside/not somewhere that is designated for sandblasting…you need a lot of equipment to do it properly, and somewhere to do it (it is really messy).
Even if you send it somewhere to be blasted, it shouldn’t cost you all that much. It probably wouldn’t take someone more that a few hours to blast the frame.
As far as painting it goes, I would probably do a coat or 2 of really good epoxy, then whatever you want on top (maybe a satin finish single stage black).