Ben Hart
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
I agree with what the others have said. Gold is not at all forgiving, and I don’t think you have the easiest paint to spray either.
Can you post some pics?
Looking great as always. Keep up the good work!
Welcome. And as mentioned, ask lots of questions!
[quote=”Wydir” post=17175]fochsml why dont you tell us about your buisness
it may just be me but it sounds like your sizing us up with these questions I dont mind telling you anythingbut lets hear what your doing or trying to do
are you a overseas buisness analyst workin for a company wanting to start a new up and coming bodyshop supply buisness ?
tell you what if you offer a good quality product that works as it should for a few years at a decent price (dosent have to be dirt cheap ) I can bet all would agree that we would buy it[/quote]
Excellent question. I am also curious about what your background and intentions are.
[quote=”jim c” post=17153]yes, you need a tooth greater than 600. 180 atleast. i agree that blasting will be way easier but you dont want to use a coarse media for the reason ryan mentioned. if you use a finer media and on aluminum you keep the psi low, around 30-40 then you can blast and epoxy them. epoxy and single stage will be the most durable finish you can do.[/quote]
I agree. Just check with the epoxy you are using. You may need to clean the aluminum with alumi-prep 33 then etch them first
[quote=”MoCoke” post=17132]that looks like a fun job, glad to see u working on GM’s, much easier to work on IMO compared to chrysler. did u section the rail or anything?[/quote]
The Rail was pretty easy to move (with a tiny bit of heat). The training I did basically said that the front and rear sections of the frame are much softer than the centre. The frames are being built with some similar concepts to unibody.
All the parts are OEM GM parts (a big contributor to the cost of the job). Definitely a good money maker for everyone. Other than dealing with the rad and related junk its a pretty good job indeed. :clappy
Oh, and unlike the Chryslers the door handles actually come out easily! We have gotten a bunch of Saturns (which I have been deprived of elsewhere). Never realized they were so great to work on.
Well, just thought I would give a quick update.
I quit my Job before Christmas and enjoyed a week or so to relax. I explained my issue(s) to my boss and left on very good terms. I accepted a job at a small GM dealer outside the city (Airdrie Motors), I knew the Manager, so it was easy to slide in there. There is 1 other bodyman and a painter. The other bodyman and I get along great and share similar attitudes and work ethics. The shop is small (fits 5-6 cars comfortably). The shop isn’t that busy, but there is just enough work to keep me going. The best thing is that it is really low stress. It has its issues (just like any shop) but I see a lot of potential for this to work well for me. :cheer:
The shop uses Autowave, I look forward to giving it a shot at some point. It better be damn good with all the Pimping that Jayson does for it 😉
Depends on the product, size of job and gun setup.
For typical collision repairs medium activator is usually good, and having the booth around 25 seems to be comfortable. I spray a little on the heavy side, so heat is a very good thing.
[quote=”jim c” post=17117]polyesters are not usually even made by most or even any of the paint companies. its private labeled or made for them by companies like evercoat that specialize in polyester. the price is jacked way up like its something special when it is not. polyester is pretty low on the technology totem pole and cheap to make. no need for those kind of prices.[/quote]
Well said!
That would be like paying $380 for a gallon of lacquer paint…just because it has the pretty Glasurit birdie on the can :whistle:
but we all get stuck paying too much for stuff now and then, I suppose.
I seem to more or less agree with the others.
I like the idea of buying local/supporting local/domestic products and services. But the #1 concern is the product itself, followed by price. All things being equal, I would obviously prefer the domestic stuff, but unfortunately most of the good stuff comes from elsewhere…
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=17071]whats wrong with beer an pretzels:cheers :cheers :cheers[/quote]
Nothings wrong with it, except the exchange rate to pay for strippers and dirty Chinese Food is no longer fair :whistle:
[quote=”ding” post=17056]Grab an estimating guide and read the P-pages. It will really help you understand how estimates are and should be written.The paint time per panel includes not only sanding, cleaning, prepping but also mixing color, putting it in the gun, cleaning the gun, etc. since some things you are only doing once while painting the car ( you dont mix up new color for each panel right?) they are considered overlap operations. Adjacent major panels get .4 deducted and non-adjacent major panels get .2 deducted. Its the same deduction that is taken if you just replaced a fender, door and blended the 1/4.
The real question to ask is why is it ok to deduct time for a blend panel. does it really only take 1/2 the time to prep it, tape it and paint it as a full panel paint would[/quote]Exactly, look up the Mitchell P-Pages (or similar info for whatever estimating system you are using). The time is fair.
Any feathering/priming/blocking etc is additional work. Are you paid for this, or is there a bodyman or prepper doing this portion?
Generally clearcoat is always capped at 2.5 hours (for major panels, any non major panels are added on top). Again, if you read the P-pages you will understand that the time is more than fair for the included operations…unfortunately many of us perfrom un-included operations for no (or minimal) charges.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=17033]Actually Ben carsystem Eurogold is re-packaged rage gold.Upol flyweight gold is European and made in the UK 2 very different products ;)[/quote]
That is interesting. So is the U-Pol actually all that different? Easier sanding? Is the viscosity all that different?
[quote=”zallen89@yahoo.com” post=17040]I have sprayed my own *** and a couple jobs only spraying once every couple of months doesnt give me the confidence to get hired as a painter else were… the painter makes 5 dollars an hour over my pay. I have spoke to the managers they cant do anything as for as a high percentage for me because we have to cover the other kid. I said fire him their response was okay but the day you or the painter call out and there is only one of you in the paint shop that day we are hiring a third person back in here. its a dealership a lot of stupid b.s….at this point as I once herd some one say the grass isnt always greener but at least it is a change of scenery.[/quote]
I have worked in 3 dealers, I understand the BS. If they really want a 3rd person, can they get rid of this guy and higher someone else?
If you do decide to move on, look around a lot and make a good sound decision.
burnt seam sealer usually comes off well with a scraper or wire brush/wheel. Getting the rust off sounds like a PITA.
Can you post some pics?