Ben Hart
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[quote=”Jayson M” post=17024]Some times the resin will settle and separate,if you take the top off and mix it with a coat hanger or screwdriver it will help.Nothing worse than squeezing out some putty and most of it is resin,that can cause the film.IMO the best flowable putty is upol dolphin glaze or liquid gold,the evercoat stuff just seems like it is going downhill.I would rather use marson platinum or USC progold ES for filler and upol for putty.[/quote]
I like the Carsystem Eurogold filler (which is similar, but easier to sand to the 3M gold). I would think the U-Pol filler is similar. As for putties, I like the U-Pol gold and the Casrsystem. Next to them I like the icing. I like really thin flowable putty, so the icing is almost too thick for me.
[quote=”MoCoke” post=17009]for this same reason i like using USC icing because it doesnt leave a sticky residue. it flows great and doesnt pinhole like the other glazes[/quote]
I agree, the icing seems to be one of the best in that regards. On a note, the Pro-Form Flowable Putty (PF-168) seems identical and is a little cheaper.
What paper brand and grit are you using? Generally I keep the old half dull sheets around to take a few quick strokes to remove the waxy residue before putting on a good sheet of paper. I usually start my putty with 120. At work we have a mix of old SIA blue-line and Norton Campaign papers, both seem good (better than the purple 3M hook-it II).
Another option is to start sanding it before it is fully hardened. Just a few quick swipes while it is still a little soft to take off the top layer. Then leave it until it is fully set up. Use old crap paper for this since it will obviously clog it.
I’m interested to hear what others have to say.
There have been a lot of good points made.
I agree with Stone, talk to your boss 1 on 1 and see if you (both) can come to and agreement/understanding. As far as leaving goes, the grass isn’t always greener…every shop has its faults/problems. The key is finding the shop whose problems bother you the least.
As far as pay goes, are you paid the same rate as the painter? Jayson mentioned that the splitting varies depending on how the work is allocated and what you agree to. 50/50 may be fair, or may be weak (for the prepper). Personally, I would prefer to prep and paint it myself. Maybe you and the painter can be accountable for your own jobs (you prep and paint yours, he preps and paints his) and the third guy can go away…or whatever might work for everyone.
To an extent I disagree with Stone about the money. Money is there and can be made in this trade. You have to be skilled, really want it and put yourself in the right place; however, most aren’t so fortunate.
[quote=”Stone” post=16937]I use the basic soldering gun/wood burner type , but I don’t like rod I usally try to steel a little of the bottom or off another old bumper …. seems to work better with an exact material match.
ps. some plastics just won’t weld … they turn to dust as apposed to melting together nice like some plastics. … as for the staple idea bondo and i seem to agree that melting some low gauge stainless mesh or screen into the back side does the same. :rock
welding rocks but for extra support you can always laminate a piece on the back side for extra security/support.
bottom line is, a new bumper cost the same as a 3-4 hour repair, and ain’t been fixed. :kofee[/quote]
Yep. Thermoset plastics cannot be welded, only bonded. Some bumpers have to be repaired due to high cost/lack of availability. But so many are becoming very inexpensive to replace.
Welcome! Be sure to post some pictures and let us know more about your world!
[quote=”sined240″ post=16933]what basecoat was used? ppg dbc 2000? awesome butt match for being a silver, keep up the great work…[/quote]
I think that is what he usually uses, and he seems to have good success with the colours. Definitely a quality product.
[quote=”RatStang” post=16910]Sadly enough as far as I can tell Bondo just keeps redoing the same 4 cars. :lol1[/quote]
Well, that just may be. Afterall, how many Subarus can there actually be around there! :p
Looks like another great job!
Keep up the good work!
[quote=”lild” post=16903]that was my excuse, then they fixed that. we really need a new excuse book. whens the new edition?[/quote]
I though I sent a copy to you…:whistle:
[quote=”MoCoke” post=16893][quote=”RatStang” post=16862]You didn’t even need to go into the Mixing room, Mcoke was probably having eye orgasms from the time he saw your booth actually had lighting. :lol1[/quote]
LOL, why else do they make night vision goggles[/quote]
Not having good lighting is good. It gives you a legit excuse for runs and bad colour matches. With good lighting you have to come up with better excuses
[quote=”NYAuto1″ post=16892]I like the urethane supply company one with the plastic rods. Seems to work well.[/quote]
Thats the one I have used the most
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=16896][quote=”Ben” post=16865][quote=”bondomerchant” post=16860]funny ben ya goober:lol1 :lol1 :lol1 :lol1[/quote]
Well, I’m just wondering what would happen if your avatars were to mate…[/quote]
They did mate, that’s where Jack’s Auto was born.[/quote]
Now we just need some Omni clear to top it all off! :lol1
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=16881]ya know ben i think you might have a good point there:blush: :blush: :blush: i swear those suby 2 tones is all i ever do here gotta nuther one coming in next week green an charcol this will be its 4th deer hit ta boot:wak :wak[/quote]
You know, you should have turned the first one down. There are just certain cars that once you do one, they all start coming to you…or maybe you should put up a “Subaru Authorized Collision Repair” sign on your shop! :clappy
[quote=”Brad Larsen” post=16879][quote=”bondomerchant” post=16440]geez dont ya just use the black drywall screws an black zip ties ya get at lowes[/quote]
That works fine on Black cars, but what about the white ones?[/quote]
I’m not sure what kind of place you work, but out west here, you can get zip ties in every colour so you can hack together every car! :rofl
Love the videos, especially the sound effects in the first one!
Make sure to spank your bodyman for chipping the paint. A little tape and patience makes reassembly much safer! Or else next time you can strip some bolts and loose a bunch of hardware in return :clappy
Looks like you are doing some great work! :cheers