Ben Hart
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[quote=”ding” post=16352][quote=”Matrix Paint Systems” post=16351]People crack me up sometimes. Show me any paint line you can mix prime and have it hit 90% of the time. I just painted a tri-coat Buick and it had count em 26 variants. If ya can’t tint stay out of the booth.(By the way prime was blend able for that color) Not saying Matrix is the best out there. But don’t knock it till ya try it. By the way I should have thought about my screen name more before I set up my account I can care less if ya use Matrix or not. If ya wanna have less profits by all means buy from one of the big guys. They work great also.[/quote]
I just charge for what I use with an appropriate markup. doesnt matter what paint line it is ;)[/quote]If you can do that, then the best paint line is the line you find most convenient to work with. I like them all, they all have strong points (and weaknesses). :cheers
[quote=”Joe@FCAB” post=16363]Nice video. I would work on your gun control. Dont use the gun like a spray can, you can leave the air pressure going and close the fluid off. Should have a 2 step trigger, not familiar with that gun. Make nice long strokes with the gun, not short fast bursts, more likely to have problems with metallics flowing out, even in small repairs. Try to use your whole arm to move the gun not your wrist. Looking good otherwise.. It all takes time.. Your on your way though!![/quote]
Exactly. Trigger the gun (always keep the trigger pulled so that air is moving without paint, then pull slightly to allow the paint to come out during your passes, this allows better control and more even paint spray). I wouldn’t bother blending something like that, it won’t make a big difference, especially if you have the same colour. Long even strokes (spray like you are a robot) it will be much quicker and much more even. If you were spraying a really difficult colour with the technique you had (like a gold or transparent colours, pearls, etc) your uneven strokes would show up as darker and lighter areas, maybe even tiger stripes (which can be hard to fix).
The clearing should also be done in long even strokes. Because the pieces you are painting are small and you have a productioin clear that isn;t too fast, you are getting away with your mistakes. I think if you were to paint a larger job, use a super fast clear, use a lesser quality paint gun or low quality (hard to spray) paint you would run into some bigger issues.
I hope that this helps. Overall, for someone with no technical training you are doing very well. I think with some work and practice you could be very skilled.
Just 1 last note, make sure to change those 3M charcoal filters regularly and keep them somewhere safe when not in use (like in a Ziploc bag).
Nice video, keep up the good work and keep asking questions! :clappy
Underpaid Painter,
here is the Tech Sheet for the Autoclear III. If you guys still have all the products for it, why don’t you give it a shot on 1 of your jobs?
[url=http://www.globalsafetynet.com/akzonobel/pdfs/akzo_220_english.pdf]Autoclear III[/url] :cheersTry it out, and let us know how it goes!
[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=16336]Jayson and Ryan, Its Colorbuild Plus that we are using, I sprayed some stuff today and better luck with the base going down. Also, I mixed my clear using a 50-50 mix of fast and slow hardner and used medium reducer at 10% It looked alot better. Im just hoping it will look as good tomorrow. I know this is going to sound crazy but there is no heat on this booth. They use a propane heater to heat it and after its painted it goes back in. As soon as the heater goes in they shut the booth off. Could lack of air movement and the heat on this clear cause the die back? This stuff is all new to me, Im used to spraying in a 6yr old downdraft spaybake.[/quote]
As far as I know, yes, that could cause die-back. I would play with the hardeners (depending on job size) and let it dry at room temp…even if that means leaving the booth run till its out of dust, then shutting it down and opening the doors to get heat in from the shop (can’t say I would be too comfortable with propane heaters). What is the temp. in there? What is your bosses view on the die back (do they accept the jobs like that there, or want them redone)? If you wind up having issues are they willing to let you try a different clear?
I worked with a similar booth for a while and when it was -40 out you couldn’t get any shop heat into the booth. Generally if it was below freezing outside it was very hard to paint and took a long time for it to flash/dry. Hard not to run it in those conditions. We were using Dupont there and I had 3 clears with a variety of reducers, activators and some accelerator just to make it work. Die back wasn’t usually too big of an issue, however, but there was a noticeable (to us professionals) difference in gloss/depth depending on the particular conditions.
First off, I have never done this…
But in theory it should work. A clear basecoat with a little toner would be better for depth than just basecoat blender, I think. You are using PPG aren’t you? The only issues I see are playing with it to get the right effect, adhesion and extended flash times.
You can’t get it ordered from elsewhere? What sort of a colour are you trying to mix.
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=16327]dammit ben there ya go asking those tough questions again……cant ya see he is painting an acura an not a run of the mill honda u macco boys are really starting ta drag the rest of us down hehehee[/quote]
I heard rumors that you wanted to convert your shop to a Maaco franchise…”Bondo’s Maaco Hut” I can just picture it now :rofl
Honestly though, you could probably buy a high quality single stage for the same price (or less) than what low end base/clear costs. Maybe its just me, or that fact that I was originally taught with S.S., but I am just a big fan of it, especially when doing a complete (where you aren’t matching a colour).
[quote=”93foxcoupe” post=16320]how can you guys work in such enviroment?!?! i get paranoid when i see a few trash around! i always try to keep my area spotless! i seriously feel closed in when theres trash everywhere!!! maybe something is wrong with me…:unsure:[/quote]
I get the same way…I start getting stressed if the area is messy. I usually clean as I go so a mess doesn’t accumulate.
The first shop I worked at was a complete disaster with $hit everywhere. The bulk of the work was highway tractors and heavy equipment, so lots of masking materials (and no one there seemed to know how to use a garbage can). You could barely move around the shop with all the junk around. The shop was at least 13000 sq ft. There was a huge yard out back with sand everywhere (from sandblasting), some places up to 2′ deep, masking paper lining the fences and old truck cabs and other parts scattered everywhere.
After the new owner took over, things turned around. After nearly 2 years the place looked almost spotless. Its a nice clean organized shop now. Can’t even begin to fathom the number of trips to the dump we made…
[quote=”Canuck” post=16229]Yes, I’m strong with the Princess. I sanded them out and shot the base. Turned out great. I just put on the first coat of pearl – it’s freaking amazing. I also owe you guys big time on the paint volume call. I had to dip into the second pint of base – boy am I glad I had that. OK – time to get back in there and shoot the next coat.[/quote]
WTF??? No time to post pics between coats 😛
Good luck, I am sure you will do great! :rock
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