Ben Hart
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
I would look at the toners for the paint system you use and see how that colour sits and shifts (face and side tone).
red will either shift to orange or to violet. You should look for the toner that is closest to the centre of red and either just spray that toner (if it looks ok) or use a paint formula that tends to mostly utilize that toner. However, you need to think of the other 2 dimesions as well (value and chroma) to ensure the colour is bright/intense enough (saturation/chroma) and light enough (value, how black or white the colour is).
A colour chart or colour wheel for your paint system will help a lot. Your jobber should be able to hook you up with one, or at least show you one.
I use an 8″ grinder to remove paint. On the rare occassion that I use fiberglass filler, I will use it to start knocking it down before blocking.
I use a 6″ DA sander for feathering paint edges and finish sanding (with an interface pad).
Otherwise, I only use blocks for body work. I personally don’t use air boards or 8″ DA sanders.
[quote=”ding” post=14780]Damn I’m impressed. Didnt Know you knew how to take out taillights and door handles :rofl :rofl :rofl
But dont tell me you still painted the cover on the shop floor :blink:
Even used that blue tape on the back window molding :clappy :clappy :clappy[/quote]You took the words right out of my mouth.
However, the photos he didn’t show us are the ones where he based over bare metal and filler. (that fancy tape is expensive, so you need to cut the costs somewhere) 😛
Looks great Bondo, keep up the good work! :clappy
If you are using Mitchell, look where the parts price is while you are writing the estimate. If there is a little black square by the parts price, it means that the part is available with special pricing from the dealer.
GMs program is called Goodwrench Service Merchandising Parts Program
[quote=”lild” post=14786]i will have to mention this to the office help. we have to put on what ever the insurance comp. tells us to put on. i have noticed lately that state farm is useing a lot of keystone remans.[/quote]
If you price out an OEM and a reman/aftermarket and can get close with the OEM, most (including State Farm) and happy to go with the OEM.
Just a note about the price matching…every manufacturer has their own Policies. I know that with Chrysler it is called the Crash Parts Program and it includes most common parts such as bumpers, hoods and lights. With Chrysler, not all dealers participate in the program. If you want to learn more, you need to talk to the parts manager or their commercial parts sales rep. And at least with Toyota, many of their bumpers are so cheap to begin with (I guess not priming them saves them a lot of money :wak )
Working at the Chrysler dealer, I have only once dealt with an aftermarket bumper for a Chrysler, never a reman (since we can basically always match the price).
where are you located?
Can you post some pics on here for us?
Maybe my eyes are bad or something…but I don’t see any solvent pop. 1 or 2 of the epics look to have fish eyes to me, though. (which would be caused by contamination).
[quote=”zallen89@yahoo.com” post=14709]Sorry to change the subject..just browsing through and seem as though a lot of you guys use water…We are using Dupont Chromax Pro water. Any of you guys have dirt problems in the base coat? We mix it and then strain it through 4 strainers total 2(125 micron) and 2(190 micron) and still have dirt when spraying it. O yea and on top of that the PPS cup has a 125 micron strainer built in. Some jobs you have to lay the clear on so heavy as to just bury the dirt and well don’t really like to do that.[/quote]
I used to use Cromax Pro. I find it is the same as all water products, in regards to getting crap in it.
Other than the obvious, I don’t have any solution
Welcome to the site!
So where is it that you work?
If you are filling anything you should cover it with a good 2k urethane primer, sprayed as per the TDS for that product. It should be blocked/sanded after curing or drying overnight.
If you are talking about wet on wet primer then it is referred to as sealer. Sealer is used to put a barrier coat between incompatible materials, sometimes give a little corrossion protection and increase adhesion. And in some cases can be used to help in hiding if the correct value shade is mixed. Sealer will fill in minor imperfections such as coarser sand scratches (like 400). Sealer is usually sprayed as 1-2 medium-medium wet coats. As always, refer to the proper TDS for the product.
[quote=”lild” post=14634][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=14633][quote=”timbo” post=14631]here I was thinking high solids would be thicker and low voc the opposite…. :blink:[/quote]
Solid content has nothing to do with viscosity. Low voc doesn’t mean high solids either.[/quote]ok, now i’m confused.:huh: :lol1[/quote]
viscosity is defined as “resistance to flow” or someting along those lines. So even water can have high viscosity (at low temperatures when it is half frozen slush).
And so the VOC can low, even in liquidy substances such as reducer, water, acetone etc.
[quote=”ADSSYSTEMS” post=14594]maybe you can check our web site on waterborne drying systems ***link removed***
thanks[/quote]
Is that the only thing you have to say on this forum…just pimping your product? :huh:
Sounds like you are liking the omni, and looks like it is working great for you!
Keep up the good work
You didn’t smoke any cigars inside it did you?
Looks great. What paint did you use?
I think after that, I was ready to throw the next bumper across the shop. I don’t mind prepping unless it is stupidly shaped bumpers with lots of grooves. Had I only been painting I would have been much more relaxed.
I didn’t complain when I got my paycheque though.