Ben Hart
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[quote=”Brad Larsen” post=14545]paintwerks, you might try cutting the adhesive loose before reworking the bodywork. It may level itself out and simple need regluing.[/quote]
I think I would try that first. I seem to recall others doing the same thing, successfully.
Nice video.
Looks like a good size shop, lots of space and equipment. I like the spraybake booth…
How many bodymen do you have? Also, I didn’t notice your pulling equipment (I think I did see a tool board though).
[quote=”MoCoke” post=14514]think i found your problem :stoned , i dont think poly primer is intended to be baked. i looked at several different manufacturers and none of them suggest anything about baking or force drying.[/quote]
We use the same Carsystem Poly primer. We never bake it, only air dry it (at least over night or longer).
Of course, after it is sanded and painted, the vehicle does get baked.
I think I have a couple scrap ones sitting somewhere, I think I might play with them dry.
I agree Bondo, painting them is better. It looks good, is easier to repair and lasts longer…not to mention saving the ridiculous cost of the garbage.
But being in a dealership, I can’t get away with that.
As far as I understand, they are basically the same systems. Just that the chemistry behind the Global is supposed to be slightly better. That is…the Global products may be slightly more durable/more resiliant/last slightly longer. PPG gives a lifetime warranty on the Global, I think Deltron may be 5 years
I know most of the products are compatible with each other (this is from the PPG rep)
[quote=”MoCoke” post=14509]at first i was thinking that you over baked (like too long or too soon), but now i think u may have blocked wrong. id take it back to steel and do it again. too much polyester spray or filler will cause cracks in the finish with a little help from the sun since its in direct constant exposure.[/quote]
My first thought was from the baking as well…
I know roofs can be a pain. Not sure how I would suggest repairing it without being able to see/feel it. :unsure:
Good luck though
[quote=”lild” post=14494]you can try a 50/50 water and alchol with a few drops of soap in it. the alcohol helps the water dry out.
but we have the same problem as you. some go on better dry, some wet. and some we have to buy new again.
sometimes, we make ours, by useing sem’s trim black. it’s a nice oem look. as for the edge’s i find it best to wait for the decal to dry completely, then i use my fingers and press and wrap. no water, it’s easier when the edge’s are dry.[/quote]
I’ve tried with the iso-alcohol and its does speed it up. I have also tried to let the tape dry before folding over the edges (the tough part with that is patience).
The worst thing is they usually pay 0.2 to R&R the tape…and it often takes up tp 0.5 just to remove the tape and old adhesive…let alone installing the new ones.
I filled in for the painter a few weeks ago. I think I did about 80 hours for the week @ 25/hr.
That is much less than our painter…but I don’t paint on a regular basis.
[quote=”Jbracing” post=14468]I’m just trying to get a few different opInions on want to use. I’ve got a 1.4 but I’m probably going to need a 1.8 or so to spray the poly. He’s been doing body work for more than 35 years and does exceptional work. He told me to do some research so that’s why I’m on here. I’m only looking to get a few years out of the car before I either sell it or chop it into another stock car for me. Never hurts to have a backup car.[/quote]
If you are spraying poly, I would go bigger than a 1.8 (maybe even a 2 or 2.5). Also, poly is not supposed to be sprayed over paint, so you will need the panels to be completely stripped. Spray it only over bare metal and body filler. If you use it read the can. Some may require an etch or epoxy first although most wont.
Although poly is cheaper than a good 2k Urethane, I would just go with the urethane. It is easier to spray, builds well and will give you a good foundation for your top coat.
I usually only use poly on high end jobs or large repairs on flat panels that need to be incredibly, perfectly straight.
[quote=”bobwires” post=14470]is there really a reason to go with a top dollar light? seems like UV lamps (grow lights/reptile lights) could work….. hmm
how do the rattle cans spray? I mentioned the stuff to the local shop and the owner was very intrigued, but I didn’t know if it was worth the investment or not.
how high of production do you need to be doing to merit a uv setup? what does a good lamp cost?[/quote]
The spray cans spray perfectly fine. The product builds well and from everything I’ve done 1-3 coats will suffice.
I wouldn’t experiment with lamps too much, I am sure there is only a certain spectrum that will cure the primer.
The better lamps have nice stands which make it easy to use.
How much production merits the cost? That depends on the size of jobs and preference. I would never spend the cost for doing it at home or on a small production scale. But if I owned a collision shop of any size I would buy one when ever I could afford it 😆
I have used UV primer in several shops. The PPG product is excellent. Very expensive, and so is the lamp. Only really use it on small jobs where speed is a huge factor. Most are sold in aerosol cans for the convenience/speed of small repairs.
Water primer has very limited use and is generally hard to come by since few places use it.
All in all 2k urethane is the best all around primer and is very cost effective. Many products are available, and can be very inexpensive in the cheaper brands.
Well, most urethane primers will require an etch or DTM epoxy to be applied over the bare metal areas for proper adhesion and corrosion resistance.
Do you have any particular brands of products available from your local jobber?
You will likely need a little etch primer and a gallon of 2k urethane. There are many, many brands and a huge range in cost as well. Will you be priming over any flexible plastic (such as bumpers)?
Several years ago I painted the calipers on my bike and they held up great. I eventually sold it but am sure they are still good.
I painted them with base/clear and probably used epoxy as a primer/sealer.
We use Envirobase.
As Brad said, it has good coverage, sprays well and the colour match is good (much better than DuPont). If you have some experience painting and some knowledge of waterborne you will do fine. Everyone I know that uses waterborne wouldn’t go back to solvent.
What are you using now Nitro?
[b]ashabieberman wrote:[/b]
[quote]Thankyou,very detailed info.The car is a Hatchback,so i think that means there is a break from the c pillar to the roof? :unsure: would this make things easier for the painter?[/quote]Have you talked to the person who is painting the car? I am sure if you have a qualified professional doing the work that they will be able to answer your questions as well.
Although it is always good to do your homework and understand the process first.
Good luck 😉