Ben Hart
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[b]serge wrote:[/b]
[quote]I can get the hinge support and change just that…I have to un-glue the air ducts to get it out…Maybe I should do this however, I have repaired composites that were working way harder than that with good results….especially in boats…That reinforcement hinge part (also does the grill perimeter) is not that beefy…Do you guys regularly change those parts out? I plan to use a little heat to get the glue to soften enough to pry the parts off…is that what you guys do? The Volvo dealer estimated 8 hours to do the replacement…and almost 700 for the part…at 75$ an hour..so I know they do it there…
We’ll see…Its fun to tinker with new stuff….The color of the truck is sort of a bluish purple pearl…we’ll see how much its going to be. I bet the clears are an arm and a leg too…[/quote]
If we were replacing the part we would use the oxy acetelyene torch on the side of the damaged panel to heat the seam just enough to seperate the adhesive. There is a fine line between just enough heat to melt the adhesive and too much, burning the good panel. If you are not confident with the torch you can probably use a good heat gun, but it will be a lot slower.
When you go to rebond it you can use the Pro-Form adhesive instead of the Fusor. The Pro-Form should be cheaper and works well. In fact, the pro-form is a relabeled package of the product that most heavy trucks use at the factory. (you’ll notice its distinct green colour).
If Lethbridge gets it from here than it comes from NAPA/CMAX which is near where I live. I know all the guys in there…Les (the manager of Cmax) is working on finishing switching over all his stuff to the low VOC systems. He should be done with that in the next few months. For the heavy truck/fleet/industrial they are VOC restricted as well, but I am pretty sure they are higher (3.5 VOC). So if he has to drop the 5000/6000 for the Elite, it will happen soon. Les is trying to sell as much of the old stuff while he can though, just to get it used up.
[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]Well our customers always say they want imron…until they realize what it costs,our cost on peterbuilt radiant fire red(forget the code)is almost $300 a litre :wak I’m in Canada too and our supplier has told us nothing about imron changing,I’m pretty sure it falls under industrial so the new automotive law doesn’t apply to us,we can still get 5000/6000.Serge if you are concerned about repairing the hood get a new one,when they are damaged around the hinges it is impossible to keep it from cracking.[/quote]Jayson, what supplier do you use for your DuPont products?
[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]What is the difference between Imron elite and the 5000/6000?Is the elite single pass?I don’t work on big trucks but we paint them on a regular basis,if your color is a metallic I would go with the 6000,solid would be 5000.We used to stock dupont clear but we have been using sikkens clear on imron 6000 for over 7 years with no problems 😛 I can ask the guys at the shop about your questions,they deal with it on a regular basis.
If your doing a metallic imron is easy,put on your first coat,then your cross coat back to back and walk away,then come back in 15minutes and clear it.Don’t tack the base as it stays wet until you clear it and it crosslinks and cures.[/quote]Imron 5000/6000 is their older line. The Elite is very similar but with some improved and updated technologies as well as lower VOCs (although 5000 and 6000 is available in a 3.5 VOC formula). Kind of like chroma base and chroma premiere, basically the same and applies basically the same just one is supposed to be better…
[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Ben wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]i would put the heat to it right after spraying. paint can be funny with dry times. if you let it sit 20 mins. to air dry, should of left it alone.[/quote]This can be true depending on the product and application. Maybe the product you used was too fast and the heat lamp helped it skin over trapping solvents in. A slower activator and/or reducer may help.
Read the tech sheet for your paint as well as the heat lamp.
macioce made a good point. Some infared lamps cure from the bottom up others cure from the outside in. This can greatly affect the way you dry your work.[/quote]
here in canada, I like to freeze dry it :kofee then bake it :pcorn: B)[/quote]
When it is -40 out and the booth barely keeps temps above freezing you get great finishes since the product just flows and flows…the key is getting it outside in the freezing temp to stop the flowing at just the right time :rofl
[b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]i would put the heat to it right after spraying. paint can be funny with dry times. if you let it sit 20 mins. to air dry, should of left it alone.[/quote]This can be true depending on the product and application. Maybe the product you used was too fast and the heat lamp helped it skin over trapping solvents in. A slower activator and/or reducer may help.
Read the tech sheet for your paint as well as the heat lamp.
macioce made a good point. Some infared lamps cure from the bottom up others cure from the outside in. This can greatly affect the way you dry your work.
I used to work on heavy trucks for a while. The SMC repair is easy to do, I liked it a lot. Are you doing a single or double sided repair, or replacing the individual panel? SMC repair is almost identical to fiberglass except you need to use SMC resin not fiberglass resin. SMC resin gives both mechanical and chemical adhesion to the substrate, unlike the fiberglass which basically just gives mechanical adhesion. Also, the SMC resin is activated with the BPO (Benzoyl Peroxide) cream hardener like most body fillers. I would recommend using fiberglass mat, rather than cloth for the repair. If used properly it can give a stronger repair. I prefer the evercoat SMC panel adhesive P/N 994
Imron is very different than automotive base/clears. It is much slower, tends to give more texture (orange peel) and doesn’t flow out much so you will need to make sure you can spray it smooth first.
Once it has dried (after about 2-3 days) you can wetsand and polish it all you want. It does polish well, but does take more effort than automotive clear coat.
As far as removing the Volvo hood, I don’t remember exactly since it has been many years. I am pretty sure the hinges bolt off and aren’t too terribly difficult to do. Can you post some pics, maybe refresh my memory?
Excellent work. I wouldn’t even know how to start something like that.
Isn’t that almost too good for a 94 Astro Van? :silly:
Being an apprentice, do you have any text books or other books? If so, it would be a good idea to brush up on your theory then practice a lot. It can take a while to become proficient at refinishing and achieving consistent quality.
There are the basics, like proper gun setup and basic spraying techniques which will be essential for you to master.
Maybe as an alternate for Dag, instead of digging a hole in the ground for a pit, why not make it a drive up booth. Then it is still a full downdraft and possibly a little easier to build.
I imagine most or all of the vehicles going into it are drivable, so having a little ramp heading into it shouldn’t be an issue.
[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Ben wrote:[/b]
[quote]I pick and file every splice, so there is no need to fill… :rofl[/quote]yah I can mig a patch with no warpage, but when I forge the weld with oxy acetylene, :woohoo:
thats when I seem to get alot of warping :silly: :lol1[/quote]By pick and file, I meant [b]pick[/b] some fiberglass filler and [b]file[/b] it straight with an 8″ grinder 👿
I pick and file every splice, so there is no need to fill… :rofl
I hate working on them a lot. I keep asking myself why I took the job with the Chrysler dealer… :wak
The size is partially dependent on the filter size or type. Obviously a full floor grate helps with even air flow, but having the narrow grate makes it easier when using stands/moving stuff around etc.