Ben Hart
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[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]sorry, i was mainly speaking on the exterior body panels, somewhere that will be painted and seen. wasn’t really thinking of floor pans, stuff like that.[/quote]Thats why I wanted to clarify…I was talking in general and figured you were talking about exterior panels only :cheers
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]Anything i have ever seen that has been done with adhesive on the middle of a panel has ghosted. You dont want to lap weld either. Always butt weld the panels in. Lap welds will come back to haunt you as well. They are a no no.[/quote]Maybe just to clarify, there are different methods for repairing different areas. Some area should never be butted. Some should always be lapped (like floor pans). Each part of the car has a specific procedure to follow (as taught with I-Car) and most manufacturers have specific procedures which over ride any industry standards.
However, when doing a rust repair, it is subjective to many variables…
All I can say is take your time with the R&I, some things are built cheaply. The door handles are a bit of a PITA to remove.
Nice pics. Jasper is a very beautiful place. Last time I was out there was a year ago for a wedding.
Looks like you had a great time.
As far as welding, the type of shielding gas you use can make a big difference. Also, how are you joining the metal when you weld, are you lapping it, recessed lap or using an insert? I hope you weren’t trying to butt it.
And with the panel bonding, the product can come as a urethane, epoxy or occasionally acrylic. Look closely at what you buy and read the tech sheets. Some of them do not allow body filler to be applied on top unless there is a layer of epoxy primer between (like with the urethane Norton speed grip). YOu will need the patch to be larger than the repair area so there is sufficient overlap to allow adhesion (typically about 1/2″ around the panel).
Exactly. Panel bonding is designed to bond non-structual components only. So a rust patch is the perfect application. But as with anything, it needs to be done as per the manufacturers directions.
May be easiest to do it as a semi-down draft instead of a full down draft.
If you had thinner, you could have over reduced it and applied several lighter coats from your gun (allowing necessary flash times between coats).
[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote]The only time I would suggest rivets is if you’re using panel bond adhesive…
Just riveting a piece of metal is creating a sandwiched area for moisture to accumulate.I have never once in all the old garbage I have worked on seen an “Old school” Rivet job not fail.
If you don’t trust your welding skill. Then use panel adhesive.[/quote]
Panel bond it! :cheer:
Adhesive turns my crank…and is excellent at preventing rust. If you need metal for a patch, you can always cut a (good) old piece from whatever you have laying around. And the nice thing with that is that the back side of the panel may already coated with E-Coat.
knock it down quick and finish with 600 or finer, then instead of polishing, lightly blow in a little clear over-reduced with blending solvent. Then just quickly polish the face when done.
[b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote]Good work!Hope you charging enough moola![/quote]
Exactly :clappy
Do like Stone said. Once you get started, use a trim panel tool or something similar on the top side to put a little pressure exactly where the tabs are and that can help when squeezing the bottom.
I find these are usually fairly easy to get off with out snapping them. Good luck
[b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]Well here is a quick run down. I Use SW clear, use 3m 1500 da dry to nib and cut any peel or dieback or what ever the case may be. Then I follow up with 3000 trizact. Then use 3m 06085 compound with a white foam pad. Then go to a black pad and use the machine polish, forget the PN. Finally, use ultrafina if needed. My problem is the car will look great until it gets back from clean up and I can still see some hazyness and da swirls that I didn’t see before. Also I just think that 3m is messy, it just flings dry compound all over. everything will be covered in compound dust. You almost need to wash the car between compound and machine glaze.[/quote]That is what I usually do and I often have the same issue (especially on blacks). It seems like the machine glaze almost coats and fills the problems but washes off afterward. With the machine glaze freshly applied it always looks great.
I found that using the 1500 and trizac 3000 is kind of a double edged sword. It is fast, but it picks up everything and leaves swirl marks that are a :cens to get rid of.
If I can, I prefer to wet sand, particularly on black vehicles and horizontal surfaces. Some of the older products are better like the Perfect It II, III and to some extent the 3000. The new stuff doesn’t float my boat and tends to be flingy and hard to clean up.
Earlier this year I tried [url=http://www.farecla.com/]farecla[/url] Their product is cheaper than 3M, cuts well without leaving swirl marks, is super efficient (a little goes a long way) and the little bit of splatter cleans up ridiculously easily. The product I used was the G6. Cuts 1500 grit like nothing and leaves a finish that doesn’t need any final glazes or polishes. As far as I am concerned this is by far hands down the best I have ever used 😉
Spray mask. Alcohol based, washes off easy protects extremely well. You should have a good wash bay, however.
[img]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs139.ash2/40284_471353395032_723495032_6711121_4771371_n.jpg[/img]
The last couple shops I have been at aren’t still in the stone ages like the rest of you :silly: , so we use paper around the areas spraying and spray mask the rest of the vehicle. Works much better than paper or plastic.
However, I have done it every way imaginable (to me). I like spraying up to the plastic since it is quick and easy to mask, inexpensive and great when doing several random areas (ie: front left fender and rt rear quarter). But if needing to do more than just base/clear (like when you need to seal and two-tone) I don’t like this as it allows the chance for the product to dry and lose adhesion on the plastic and get crap in the paint. Also, I tend to clear pretty heavy so I like having at least a few inches of paper around the area I am painting to ensure that the clear wont run from the masking product onto the panel, and that has happened to me more than once :cens
I have used the 3M and Norton plastic, both are poly coated/paintable (on the 1 side) and work well.