Ben Hart
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looks great. I don’t think they even bother sanding the Taxis here… :lol1
Welome to the site. And as far as being afraid of it, don’t be. Everyone has their preference of products and good and bad can be said for all.
I’ve used the Cromax with excellent success. The only weakness I found was some colour matches. The product covers, sprays and blends well. I also found that it dried quickly and was fairly easy to sand imperfections (such as dust nibs).
Earlier in the post someone mentioned the Sherwin Williams waterborne as a far superior product, where as I feel the opposite and cannot get the SW product to work for me at all. Give it a good honest shot and I am sure you will have success.
You say the colour is slightly yellow?
The paint itself may be a decent match. Sometimes the colour becomes a little darker/yellower once you clear it. The reason is that many clear coats are actually slightly yellow due to additives such as UV protection, and with the high solids clear coats (and a painter who is generous with the product) you can get a lot of clear on there. With any clear, the more you have on the darker it will get since the light has to pass through more clear, reflect off the base pass through the clear again before it is seen by the eye.
[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote]:hij:gophers – 22. cal (great for jammin)
:squirrels, groundbirds, and even bear – 22. cal/ 20 gauge over under (nice overall gun)
:deer – savage 110 (good for bigger jobs)
:ducks – Remington 870 (nice wide pattern and works with water born)
:whistle:
All round favorite – crossbow :pcorn: (really quiet for night shooting) 😉
[b]I want a double barrel paint gun[/b] :stoned[/quote]
…but could you handle a double barrel paint gun, it has a lot of kick when you pull the trigger. :lol1
[b]BondoKing wrote:[/b]
[quote]I gotta get me one of these RP’s.. I have a complete 69 Camero coming this weekend or next.. Perhaps Bondo should order himself one of these guns for this job and see what all the fuss is about..I dont use a regulator on my Iwata, but I know I spray with allot more pressure than what it calls for .. I never felt it atomized like it should at the recommended setting when I used regulators and always bumped the pressure up :stoned[/quote]
I usually use a regulator and for clears and some ss I often use a little more pressure too. Just because the gun is compliant, doesn’t mean I have to be…besides an extra 5 or 10 PSI doesn’t hurt if it makes the product lay down smoother! :lol1
When I used DuPont, that is what I did with everything. I didn’t have/use urethane sealer. I used the DTM epoxy primer sealer. I knew it was excellent for burn throughs (especially to bare metal) gave great adhesion and (compared to traditional epoxies) was fairly fast.
I would recommend epoxy (and so does the paint rep), afterall it won’t hurt. However, like everyone else, I usually have applied polyester or 2k Urethane over the bare fiberglass.
I think the idea with the epoxy is that the fiberglass needs to be sealed since the fibers will “wick up” water/moisture and hold onto it very easily, eventually causing the glass to rot. And way back when, the primers (lacquer) were not adequate enough for this task. So if you use a good 2k product it will do an excellent job adhering to the glass as well as blocking out moisture.
What type of gun, what pressure are you spraying with? Does it do that with all materials (base, clear, primers, etc)? Are you using the coarse or fine filter/caps?
The newer liners are a little thicker than the older ones, I believe, and so it may take a little more pressure to create the vacuum need to pull the product through. But it shouldn’t make it difficult to spray…
So…how about that weather, eh? :S
There was a similar post on this topic about a month ago. It had some good info in it too
That is an excellent question!
The difference is the chemistry. They both have different binders (resins) that make up the base of the paint. The other parts of the paint (the pigmentation and the solvents) are not that different and in some product line, identical.
[b]Acrylic Enamel[/b] is an older technology where Acrylic Urethane is a little more modern, although both have been around for a long time.
Older Enamels cured through a process of oxidization. Basically, there would be no hardener/activator added. You reduce the product, spray it, then as air reacts with the binder in the paint they combine and change the chemical composition to become hard and durable. Even thought they have no activator they are considered a convertible coating (a product that changes chemically as it dries, and cannot be changed back). Acrylic Enamals are very similar but usually have a catalyst that helps to speed up the process as older enamels took a long time to fully cure. Acrylic Enamel catalyst is different from the hardener/activator used with urethanes. Some acrylic enamels, such as the Omni AE allow the option to use the catalyst or not use it.
[b]Acrylic Urethane[/b] became a new technology probably somewhere in the 1970s. Most all products today (basecoats, clear coats and industrial polyurethanes) are based on this technology. Urethane binders are divided into two parts: you have the base (resin in the paint) and the activator/hardener. When you mix the two together you start a chemical cross linking that makes a super hard/durable product that can be stronger and last longer than Enamel. Basically the resin contains a chemical called hydroxyl and the hardener contains isocyanide. The two chemicals are what combine to create a Polymer, through Polymerization which creates the strength of the paints. Polymers are also the base of all plastics. So technically urethane paints are a thin coat of hard durable plastic once cured.
So what does this mean for you? Urethane is probably a better choice for the long term. An advantage to the urethane, as well, is that as you spray it, the (clear) resin tends to come up to the surface quickly basically leaving a super thin clear coating over top of your pigment (similar to having a thin layer of clear coat). Most quality paints have some UV protection added to the resin, thus, the thin layer on top prevents UV degradation of the pigments and the paint much better than enamels, which is even more important when spraying metallic colours.
Basically what I would summarize with is that urethane is a newer technology that is generally more durable than enamel and therefore is likely a better choice. Many inexpensive paint lines (such as Limco, Omni and Nason) offer both AE and AU paints at similar prices, so if you have the choice go for the urethane even if it slightly more expensive. But as with anything, always compare apples to apples. A super inexpensive urethane may not be better than the worlds best acrylic enamel where there is some phenomenal price difference due to the quality of the products used to make the paints. However, you are unlikely to find much for quality acrylic enamels anymore and I am sure that in the next few years most paint manufacturers will completely stop making acrylic enamel paints.
Hope this might clear things up, and best of luck!
[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]Like it has been said before it really depends what kind of clear you are using,HS=more pressure,MS=less pressure.But I wouldn’t want to use anything under 28psi,[b]I think too many people think that paint has to “flow out”to look right when that is just not the case.If you have proper atomization,technique you can make clear look however you want.When you have to depend on “flow”you are adding another variable that can bite you in the ***.[/b]I really don’t think that the sata wastes material compared to other guns,and if it did just bill the customer 😉 Seriously it uses less than my devilbiss plus and sata jet90,and it is equivalent to my old rp.[/quote]Well said. I have a certain gun that can lay clear down with as nice as an RP, but I need to spray it at 40-55psi (depending on the product) and some HS products do require the “flow technique” since the older design of the gun does not allow the product to atomize as much as necessary. The gun was designed for medium sold and low solid products…
Also, in order for the HS products to flow, it needs to be “hosed” on. It is always better if you have proper atomization then you can control how much product you want to put on rather than how much product you need to put on. With that said, would anyone dare to blend a gold hood with waterborne base using an old JGA-502 when you could use a properly equiped SATA Jet 3000?
I have and have used the odd few here and there, some of which I have never seen elsewhere.
I believe he is leaving (some) of them to me in his will, but I am not sure if I would ever actually want to use them.
It is always an experience spending time with him and watching his hand skills!
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]need a lot more specifics and maybe a picture of your patch[/quote]Exactly.
Can you post a picture?
It is usually easier (for a beginner) to paint the whole thing rather than blend it. If it is solid black, you probably won’t have much of an issue with matching the colour, even if you paint it with single stage (non clear coat) paint.This is a very interesting thread…