Ben Hart
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Clay bar and buy the bottle of the meguires detail spray to go with it. Yes, you can wet sand with 2000 then polish. But if the clay will work, it will be MUCH MUCH easier and less risky than sanding/polishing.
If it is on the glass you can use ultra fine steel wool and/or a razor blade.
I have one. My father used to sell them years ago. I like it, it is very different but has some unique features. As said, you either like it or you don’t.
However, I don’t use it anymore, I still prefer the mainstream brands (Devilbiss, Iwata, & Sata).
and just a FYI, Accuspray was bought out by 3M (not surprisingly).
I agree, don’t be cheap. Having a 1/2 pint left after painting the side of a car with 3 stage is not a huge problem. And as mentioned most don’t go bad quickly.
I know some systems like the SW Ultra 7000 uses an Reactive Reducer which limits the reduced pot life to something like 12 hours though, so that would be understandable, but otherwise, label it and store it for the next job that is the same colour.
Besides, what costs more, 6 ozs of wasted paint, or your time spent mixing the same colour 3 times to prevent waste?
Welcome to the site! Hopefully we can help you out!
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]i say use non sanding epoxy and do a wet on wet job. and i wouldn’t use high dollar ss paint. go with the cheap stuff.[/quote]You want to use a good single stage. Imron is a different animal than a normal SS. It is way tougher. For something like a tub use something nice and you won’t see problems down the road. A quart of white Imron isn’t going to break the bank by any means.
If I wasn’t going to use Imron I would at least pick a SS from a fleet line and not a normal automotive SS.[/quote]
I am not sure how Imron will hold up in a tub, however, it will probably be your best choice of automotive/fleet paints.
I would buy the cheaper Imron 5000 (single stage). It is fairly inexpensive, sprays well and is very durable. As far as an Epoxy goes, use the green chromate rich DTM primer sealer (don’t have the part # off hand, but I can find it if you want). That is probably one of the best products you could use.
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]I hate working on chryslers :chair :chair :chair[/quote]Me too…but they were the only Dealer hiring at the time. On the bright side I am learning lots of little tricks to work on them, like snapping every little piece of junk clip and supping for new ones :silly:
Looks great. You could be a pro in no time!
Sounds like a good plan
[b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]Well, all of a dealers enventory is owned by them. They call the insurance company to make a claim. they sent out a bunch of adjusters to cut checks. The dealer will either have them fixed or sell them as is for a reduced price. No matter what, the dealer makes money. The dealer I work for has a PDR team that fixes most of them.[/quote]We will see what they decide to do, but pretty much just that. They will likely decide to have a big Hail Sale to offload as many as possible, then have PDR performed where feasable and as a last resort the Body Shop will get the leftovers…
You should move up here. You sound like you get…the short end of the stick a lot (to be polite). Most of the shops I’ve been in/know of the painters make the real money and are treated like gods…
[b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]If you are wanting to start completly over…you could try to wipe off the rattle can paint with some thinner. Im sure its not catalized. If you cant wipe it off I would just sand it down with some 600, rebase then clear the whole bumper.[/quote]I agree, that is some good advice. May also save some headaches as the base you apply late could wrinkle the un-catalyzed clear that is on there now.
Looks like you are making good progress. Even your first paint job wasn’t bad at all for someone with little experience.
As far as the sanding goes, I like the hook-it II paper, but for doing something at home I would stick with the wet sanding since it is much cheaper and lasts a lot longer (not to mention the lack of dust).
What grit do you intend on sanding the primer with?
I live in NE Calgary. I work Downtown at Renfrew Chrysler. The majority of the larger hail seemed to be in that area. I am guessing that GSL Chev and Metro Ford probably got it too.
What shop do you work at?
As far as the colour goes there are several variances of that colour. Also, the coluor could be B92P-4. Could also be the person mixing it, may not have done well or may have mixed too small of a batch to be measured accurately. B92-P often can come out a little bluer, and yes this is due to the pearl, so spraying technique can contribute to this. But with using an aersol you have basically no control.
The base coat most definitely can be blended nicely over the old clear. It is a matter of prepping it properly, spraying technique and possibly using basecoat blender.
[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]Yes,autowave and u-tech,we do lots of semis,we even have a delfleet system :cens[/quote]I didn’t know that Autowave used the mixing bank…
I gather you don’t like Delfleet? Is it the essential or Evolution? I found it wasn’t bad at all…but I also like Imron…