Nelson Hays
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[quote=”Joe@FCAB” post=20229]For as cheap as used booths are right now, I would just buy one and be done w/ it.. I have seen used cross drafts go for 800-1500 in this area, side down drafts w/ heat as cheap as 3500.. When you figure your time and materials to build one it would be hard to beat a used one right now.[/quote]
I hear ya.
Did I mention I’m doing this on the ‘down low?’ I’m not in a location where I can fit a real paintbooth, and since I’m an occasional user for personal use I’m just going to fake it. I have a room which is the size of what I’d like the booth to be, just with higher ceilings. I can put wall mounted lights in there, hose it down with spray mask, and install some high CFM fans and be good enough for the crap I work on.
real minor scratches you can just seal up the plastic and put on a couple layers of HB primer and call it a day. no rigid fillers.
Looks great! or at least, it’s a huge steel building. That’s great in my book.
I’ve got 2 auxiliary tanks mounted about 10′ up on the wall above the compressor. right after that I have a 1″ water trap. It has never bled any water out since I finished this system. I thought it was clogged…. I opened it up and it was full of dust! bone dry.
:rofl
very nice.
all that sanding was by d/a?!? very impressive! what make/model sander? I’m assuming you did the edges and whatnot with a handblock, or you have more balls than I do! :rock
[quote=”Wydir” post=19873]Ok here is an Amp draw from 0PSI to 120PSI then the Comp Unloads, Then I close the unloader and it goes from 120PSI to 150PSI and shuts off total time is around 6 min as you can see at the bottom of the Graph. Again this is an 80 gallon tank
Startup Amps were 53
Running amps loaded was between 24-27 (while loaded Amp draw Raises as Pressure Rises ) <- well duh right lolAll Tests were done with A FLUKE 289 True RMS Multimeter and a FLUKE i400 AC Amp Clamp (Just in case you can't figure out why the side thats for the Amps is actually in Vac, thats how it is get over it)
I still havent done any tool tests as for running time but I will get there.
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/PolarAirAmpDraw.jpg[/IMG][/quote]
They have a feature where the larger motors have variable rpm based on load. Do you know any more about that?
Where the heck did you find 7.711764 as the ‘differential of wrongness?’ I have been looking around to see if I was badly mistaken and In can’t find anything to back this up.
http://www.pdblowers.com/t6-scfm-standard-cfm-vs-acfm-actual-cfm.php
[quote=”Wydir” post=19698]Ok here it is Most compressor’s are NOT rated in CFM but SCFM Now before you all freak out I will explain as this was my issue with my polisher because I didnt pay attention and because the marketing world is a bunch of liars
1 CFM is 7.11764 SCFM
Eaton Correctly states that the compressor output is 19 SCFM @ 100PSI which is 2.66 CFM @ 100psi
so to run my polisher I would need a 10hp compressor rated @ 35 SCFM @ 175PSI just to run my one polisher that has a 4.8 CFM rating or 34 SCFM
so all of us who thought that the sticker and the ads we look at on our compressor States it puts out any number in CFM is Wrong and a Lie all compressors I have looked at online are all rated in SCFM but all the ADs I read say they are in CFM
so we will use bob as example sorry bob
to have a 10 CFM compressor it would be rated as follows 20HP 71CFM @ 100PSI Im sorry if I offended anyone but thats how it is
Heres the True rating of the 10CFM Compressor 1.4 CFM @100PSI again im sorry but facts are facts and thats why the air tools kill the compressors we have because we size our compressors to our air tool needs but they are rated in different ways, we need to have a standard way to rate Compressors as this rating crap has gotten way out of hand and the misuse of the CFM in Place of SCFM is Complete BULLSHEET[/quote]
I really think you got your math screwed up there somewhere… or believed some crap on a forum :rock
Standard Cubic Feet Per Minute is CFM at a slightly varying standard of temperature and humidity. I say slightly varying because different manufacturers pick different numbers like 78degreesF or 80degreesF, at 14.3 or 14.7 atmospheric pressure. It’s only way off if you live way above or below sea lever, have very wet or very dry climate, or very hot or very cold temperatures. SCFM would be a better spec if taken where i live! cold air gets more molecules in the tank!
It’s only off a few percent at best.
oh… just read that you found that out. No we know…
I have a 7″ polisher – and I had to read the fine print as well. It says 15CFM…. AVERAGE. MY CP takes 26 CFM when in use. My little 10 CFM compressor doesn’t have a chance….
I still think that’s a nice compressor, for the money or not, considering the pump and motor and tank are all decent quality with a nice warranty.
I’m not wild about that color either, but you do great work! Very clean
I have heard mixed things about them, but I’d rather have a good pump and motor for cheap and deal with the other crap myself. I always thought one of these would be my dream compressor too!
Epoxy primer is where it’s at! (In my haughty opinion)
I don’t know if you live in the desert, but around here roofs are ALWAYS at least a little rusty due to condensation. To weld off whatever paint finish was there from the factory would make it sooo much worse.
:cheers