Nelson Hays
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but you obviously haven’t been picking up norton paper there…..
seems like between them and TCPglobal, they have pretty much everything I have ever needed.
from what I hear from the old guys, the old siphon feed high pressure guns sprayed lacquer way easy, but it took lots more material and poked visible holes in the ozone layer. HVLP is harder to spray, but more environmentally sound and uses less material.
I got an LVLP gun from Iwata. LPH400 is very common, and not HV. It’s slow, but sprays real nice. I thought it would be a nice gun for a beginning painter getting serious.
the big 3 places I go to for autobody stuff don’t carry much norton…. tcpglobal, eastwood, and autobodytoolmart. anybody have a jobber in my general area that can get me some stuff?
bondo – you’re in WA right?
this is very good stuff. thanks all
I go through TONS of 80 grit PSA discs on my fiberglass stuff. my poor hutchins orbital really gets a workout some days. I’ve always used stickit paper because it’s cheap, and is supposed to cut flatter.
I have a few backing pads that are hookit II, and there’s nothing I can do about it…. argh. I’ll have to buy a couple more regular hookit
is there a good online place that sells norton paper? seems like the main websites I go to don’t carry much of it, if any.
hey what about uv primer? no solvents in that to screw things up. but is it an effective sealer?
I’ve heard that Norton is consistently less $ than 3m. so is the Norton ‘hookit’ the same as hookit I or II from 3m?
I don’t know why you’re having issues with 2000. I denib with 600, then 1200, then 2000 and polish and never have had a scratch problem that wasn’t from failure to thoroughly sand on one of the grits.
are you using an aggressive enough polish? you’ve got to hit it with a pretty mean compound after the 2000, and work up from there. I generally go through a heavy cutting round, then a light cut, and depending on the color go up from there. I make sure I’m washing and drying areas to test as I go because I’ve had little jobs where I thought I was done with a particular stage and when I was ‘finished’ I realized I had more work to do to get rid of scratches of a particular grit.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=15375]I use Sikkens Autowave and very rarely have a problem with colormatch from audi to yugo :stoned[/quote]
:clappy
how do you do it Jason? Those Daggum Yugo’s are always giving me problems :rofl
clear base coat? never even heard of that. I sanded up for a blend with 600 grit. another time I scuffed with a gray scotch brite and scuffing gel.
[quote=”Ben” post=15323]With painting over the old paint and the grey primer, a value-shaded sealer would have helped tremendously.[/quote]
I got a gallon of martin senour sealer a couple years ago when I was starting my first paint job, but it’s pretty dark gray. almost black. Do you have to have some special sealer ‘base’ that you add black tint to to get the right value?
looks good to me. I know what you mean about crappy coverage. My first paint job was a dark silver, and after 4 coats of base it still wasn’t hiding when I pulled it outside…
[quote=”Nexson” post=15284]I fill a mixing quart sized container up half way with thinner, and then break down my gun to the fullest, let it soak with thinner and then blow it out. This works because I do it every single time so i dont need to scrub out any paint. No build it.
I have the time to break the gun down.[/quote]
if you get a chance, pick up a cheapo infrasonic cleaner – like they sell for cleaning jewelery. I’ve seen them work, and plan on getting one myself, and let me tell you – whatever parts you thought didn’t have a build on them, do. the gun I saw was meticulously brush-cleaned every time, and the owner through the nozzle and needle in the thing and the water was murky when it was done.
I used to do pretty much exactly what you do, but I’ve never bothered to blow thing dry. after I learned about that cleaner I started brushing carefully.
[quote=”MoCoke” post=15287]when ur done spraying, use one of these bottles to squirt thinner into the fluid passage and around the gun, then dismantle it and with a brush clean every part and reassemble. they save lots of thinner, so youll only use up a few ounces of thinner to clean your gun. and get a workbench!
http://www.tcpglobal.com/images/devdpc-8.jpg%5B/quote%5D
sounds good to me
alright, how about some more specific questions.
How many of you guys use gun cleaners? would a super cheapo HF gun cleaner be good for me to pick up for an initial wash before I break down the gun?
Is there a filter system on a gun cleaner that will save you much on the thinner? I mean does it really get the thinner clean? or do you have to clean them in fresh thinner even after using a good gun cleaner?
I use devilbiss disposable bags, becuase they’re cheaper than DeKups, and seem to work fine.
I have a stainless bowl I use for my initial cleaning. I dump out the leftovers and drop all the parts in there, slosh them around, brush a little, then put them in a clean cup of thinner. I percolate some thinner in the gun before I do the final wash. After they’re 100% clean I put the gun back together and shoot a couple oz of thinner through it. I only use this procedure on my nice gun, since the old ghetto guns I have are only for primer, and a quick clean seems to be fine. if they sputter I clean them up thoroughly.
– is there anything about my procedure that sounds dumb?
if the gun is very clean and still gets bubbles back up through the cup, what does that mean? I have 2 old cheap guns that do this. don’t spray well – no problems with spray pattern, just sprays about 2 seconds, then stops, then picks right back up. Like the pressure is building up in the cup or something.
with an inline heater?
