Nelson Hays

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Viewing 15 posts - 406 through 420 (of 441 total)
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  • May 30, 2010 at 10:25 am #21671

    Soldering copper is not legal for air lines. They must be brazed, which is even easier than solder. Sweating pipe is standard for water, which, in the event of a fire, will just douse the flames. An air line will fan the flames and be a major problem. Get the oxy/acet torch out and a couple of brazing sticks and do a couple of test runs. You don’t even have to clean up the joints when you braze.

    May 30, 2010 at 3:39 am #21662

    I didn’t reread this thread, but you said they are black iron lines? black iron always has oil in the lines out of the factory when they cut and thread the ends. I ran brake cleaner through the lines several times with a rag on a string and I still had problems. I had to bypass a couple of the legs and it was ok. in my new shop I’m currently running copper pipe.

    I’d check that out, if you haven’t already.

    May 28, 2010 at 3:09 am #21628

    TCPGlobal has been good to me. quick shipping, good rates to Alaska, great selection of great products. I’ve never used their paint, but all the other stuff you could possibly need in the autobody business.

    May 25, 2010 at 9:54 am #21568

    evercoat makes the sticky booth paint, and it’s water-soluble. just hose the walls down and the dust and overspray go with them

    May 24, 2010 at 11:57 am #21548

    what do you use to wash cars there? any spray waxes? most contain silicones, and tiny bits left hanging in the shop air can be a nuisance.

    May 24, 2010 at 11:54 am #21547

    Has anybody coated the walls with hairspray? I heard of some old painter that cranked out some sweet paint jobs by hosing down the walls with a couple cans of cheap hairspray, then wetting the floor. evidently the hairspray’s static charge attracts dust

    May 14, 2010 at 6:34 pm #21245

    I’ve used lots of the duramix and automix products, and they are a way bigger pain than duraglass. if you can get the duraglass to stick and stay it’s a way easier job. I hope you never hit a curb!

    nice work as always Brian.

    May 8, 2010 at 7:29 am #21093

    sweet! that’s the place

    does a good stud gun kit’s slide hammer have an attachment to hook on to that thing? like a carabiner or something? or do you have to have a special one, or rig something up?

    May 8, 2010 at 7:22 am #21092

    [b]Easy wrote:[/b]
    [quote]Are they the same as 78 79 Barts?[/quote]

    before ’81 was Gen1, 82-87 was Gen2, I have the latter.

    May 7, 2010 at 11:00 am #21076

    where do you get this tool?

    [img]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s151/jackcarlson1965/021-6.jpg[/img]

    May 6, 2010 at 8:38 am #21047

    [b]jim c wrote:[/b]
    [quote]that stuff says it builds at 10mils per coat!! :exci[/quote]

    Holy CRAP! that’s awesome! literally sprayable finishing putty.

    May 6, 2010 at 8:37 am #21046

    lame. Brat’s are where it’s at.

    May 5, 2010 at 6:34 am #21025

    not much luck so far on that site, except for the real common stuff like fenders…

    I’m told by a friend that there are lots of these old subaru’s in eastern Washington. Anybody out in that area? or Oregon?

    May 3, 2010 at 6:41 am #21009

    thanks for the lead

    May 2, 2010 at 5:57 am #20994

    That is impressive! That would take me a week. No joke. 8 hours of work, but I’d have been so pissed after 2 that I’d have pulled it outside and swore for a few days.

Viewing 15 posts - 406 through 420 (of 441 total)