Nelson Hays
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painted dashes are a bad idea……
I’m an interior guy, and I CRINGE whenever I get asked to do it…..
No matter the product, no matter the finish, it will look like balls within 6 months, a little longer on a trailer queen.
Wrap it in vinyl and call it a day.
Nice Nex
Had to giggle at that armor all. Nice trick!
Have you ever sprayed really dry from a primer gun to get the texture? I’ve had good success spraying some fairly think urethane primer, as well as canned bedliner from my 2.3.
[quote=”Ben” post=26871]The type of plastic really doesn’t matter, just weather or not you need adhesion promoter. Take a razor blade to a hidden edge and scrape off a very tiny sliver of plastic and put it in water. If it floats, use adhesion promoter, if it sinks, you won’t need the promoter.
Prep and paint as usual…[/quote]
that is a very cool trick!
I generally use AP regardless, when it’s an unknown plastic. I work with ABS, PVC, Acrylic, and UMWH on a regular basis, and occasionally bond to PP and PO in factory interior panels – the stupid factory plastics require AP about 99% of the time….. It took me about a year of little projects before I really got comfortable bonding and spraying all the really gay ones.
You guys really use cups still? I thought the whole world switched to PPS or similar? I went disposable and never looked back.
I’ve gotta say, I LOVE the assilex fine paper (more like cloth) from Eagle abrasives. It’s so flexible it makes the edges a dream by sanding dry.
I’m really happy with everything I have tried from them.
I always bomb through it with 220 or so on a DA to scuff it up for filler. then work over the little dimples and whatnot with red scotchbrite.
I would much rather have epoxy on bare metal than filler.
Find any Keystone cans? :rofl
sweet
It’s not very durable, long-term. Plus, I’m not sure if it’s UV stable. It might fail just from sitting outside.
:rock
i prefer Parker hose over the eaton
Prevost fittings are wicked! :rock
I ran a $600 80 gal compressor for 5 years. I’d recommend you run multiple (free, scrapped) tanks to drop the water, instead of a high-dollar water trap. No issues for me in that regard.
I wish I would have bought a nice gun sooner. I heard a few guys saying they ‘could paint a car with any gun,’ but I disagree. Maybe back in the day, when paint was easier to shoot. Not anymore. I had a terrible time with my ghetto gun, and the little tiny fan didn’t help any either.
I opted for an Iwata LVLP, which is a SLOOOOW gun, and I did that deliberately. I didn’t want a super fast Sata, leaving me even more runs in the clear, and I didn’t want to reach the limit of my cheap compressor. Maybe this was wise, maybe not.
I just bought the 3m accuspray primer gun, and I am REALLY looking forward to using it. I think this primer gun, and a good gun from sata or iwata and you’re set.
I shoot solvent only, simply because I can’t even get water-based anything in my little old-school town.
Take time to setup a nice mixing/cleaning station. I really regret not doing this earlier. I have had a lot of supplies covered in dust, or end up digging in a bin for something while I’m rushing to get something finished. It sucks.
BUY LIGHTS! I screwed up my first complete royally due to not having enough room around the car, and not having enough light. I spent many an hour sanding runs out of that bastard….
Good luck, and keep us posted.
why would epoxy fail? that stuff sticks to everything if it’s sanded up good.
shwing! :rock
Why exactly is it not recommended we use an ultrasonic cleaner on the guns individual pieces? seems like that would do a pretty good job.