Robert
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Got her all put back together…it’s going to feel great having shop space again!
hey ryan, its got a dohc zc (stock civic si motor in Japan) with a garrett t3 .42/.63 turbo and 60mm exhaust all the way back. Cheap eBay radiator, Innovative front crossmember and traction bars, innovative urethane motor mounts, stock ECU chipped for turboEDIT, PLX-AFR wideband o2 sensor for tuning. Thats all i can think of right now. I hope you like it 🙂
[IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff170/zchatch_photos/100_0077.jpg[/IMG]I told him to try a citrus solvent on it or just stip the paint. The glue has always came off when I removed it too, must be different kind of stuff
[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote]So Jr,
Getting a bit of demand for some exterior details lately, all black cars 5-10 years old and just wondering what you are using product wise.
Most all the stuff I do is on fresh work. So we generally play it on the safe side when it comes to products.
I know you worked in a detail shop for years. and you know what works good yet isn’t too expensive.I have a similar setup to Bondo as far as fresh work.
Such as:
3M Superduty rubbing compound.[b]use with a wool pad[/b]
3M Perfect it II Rubbing compound.[b]step up to an aggresive black or medium yellow pad[/b]
3M Finesse it.[b]I don’t use it[/b]
3M Machine glaze.[b]use a black 3m pad[/b]What do you like to use as far as waxes, swirl removers, pads, clay bars, cleaners?[b]For wax I use a malco product called Diamond Crystal. It is just a great carnuba wax. I recommend using it like a compound with a medium/light cut pad to help remove swirls. 3m swirl remover is just great. I also like Seal-b from malco, basically the same thing. For the clay bar, well just use it after you wash the car before you dry it off, because it is going to put swirls in your clear. I dip it in soapy water. Cleaners…hmmm…well depends on what you need cleaned. Aluminum wheels, chrome wheels, etc. Just let me know and I will try my best to help you[/b]
What do you guys use to remove small imperfections? Such as Abrasives, Trizac, abralon. (colorsanding)[b]touch up paint[/b]
What do you apply your products with.[b]listed below[/b]
Tips? Tricks? Procedures.[b]The way I think when I take on a black car, start out with the wool pad at 1000 or so rpm and be generous with the compound. Then once your done (10 mins per panel or so) step it out to the medium cut pad and compound, increase the buffing speed and use a little less compound. After that use a medium/light cut pad with carnuba wax to hide/erase swirl marks, use a good speed like 13-1400 rpm. Then step out to the final pad for glazing and basically glaze over the wax you put on, with a high speed but don’t use too much glaze, just a few drops per panel. Then machine or hand wax over the glaze with the same stuff you buffed with earlier. Allow to dry and wipe off with a soft terry cloth or microfiber towel.[/b]
Typical price for an overall?[b]75 for interior, 100 for exterior (more for black of course) I usually spend around 4 hours total to do both, but if the paint needs lots of buffing charge the customer 30 bucks more for your work[/b]
You know, the works.
Thanks
Richard[/quote][b]A2brb wrote:[/b]
[quote]Do you want pictures of the Engine setup or Specs or Both?[/quote]
both[b]A2brb wrote:[/b]
[quote]Ha Ha..Yes, The VW/Audi group is not always looked at in a postive light…But, I have much respect for any car that is being restored.I hope to build/restore a 66′ or 67′ Chevy Nova some day. But for now, It’s Big Turbos and Euro for me.
Thanks for letting me back on the site :rofl[/quote]
Car looks great man. You should post up your engine set up too 😉
[b]Doright wrote:[/b]
[quote]Hey Jack what two steps did I use to do it?I was just curious if any one used the whole system and how good it really was when used as a complete system as I am impresses with the results with just useing the two steps I did well 3 if you include the wool pad.[/quote]
I’m not Jack but on light colors like silver and white you only have to do 2 steps. Darker colors and reds I pretty much always do the 3 step[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]bondo jr wrote:[/b]
[quote]This is why I don’t put chinese stuff on my car lol. Cant go wrong with the OEM[/quote]
ya sure your my son:blink: :blink: :blink: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:[/quote]
Okay says the guy with the cheesy chinese pro street style mirrors on his old dart 😛 😆 😆 The only chinese part on my car is the front bumper because I knew I was gonna hack the shit out of it for the intercooler[b]kennelly16 wrote:[/b]
[quote]50% water and 50% alcohol? what type? and how about putting on window frame applicase brutal hard to get no air bubbles even if you sand them flat but thankfully if something looks too tricky we got a sticker guycool vids good idea overkill but better safe than sorry im gonna give that a go sometime(heat gun)[/quote]
Sorry I wasn’t clear on the stuff…It is half denatured alcohol and half water. What kinda window frame you talking about?[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]well well well looks like jr is barking like a big dog now:cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: it dont take me 3 times as long i just dont hide as much with the swirl remover:P 😛 :P[/quote]
Sure, boss 😛[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]bondo jr wrote:[/b]
[quote]
Don’t be afraid of foam pads! A good black foam can out cut a wool pad but make sure its got PLENTY of compound, because the foam pads get so hot if they start to dry out; then you start burning through! I am with bondo on this though, his meguiars is worlds ahead of 3m sandpaper (for wetsanding at the least). I usually go from 1000-1500 and finish out with meguiars 2000[/quote]
A black foam pad? have you been watching ODG videos with the black foam pad and super duty :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:[/quote]lol
I did use the 3M system for quite a while, i’m onto the presta stuff nowadays. We still have the 3M system as another guy here uses it (the totally wrong way btw…takes him 3 times as long) I still use it from time to time, usually on parts with alot of turns as I find the foam a lot less likely to burn an edge.
This is how I would typically polish with it:
Finish with 3000 trizact discs
white waffle pad w/ extra cut
white wafflepad w/ rubbing compound
black wafflepad w/ swirl removeron higher end jobs or darker finishes I would also use the blue pad with the ultrafina. I’ve heard some professional detailers / polishers say that they would finish using the ultrafina regardless of what system they were using.[/quote]
You go straight from the rubbing compound to the swirl remover?[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]Some guys are just really good at those decals, i still always have someone else apply them. Theirs one guy at our shop we all get to do the decals that’s really good at lining them up.[/quote]
I used to be that guy and I HATED doing it…We had a vinyl cutting machine at work and people wanted us to do some of the stupidest crap man, I swear ONLY here in this small town would somebody pay us money to make and install a sticker that says “Leon is cool”WTF who would do that lol. I don’t think I could even keep a straight face if I asked for something like that lol
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]bondo jr wrote:[/b]
[quote]
Don’t be afraid of foam pads! A good black foam can out cut a wool pad but make sure its got PLENTY of compound, because the foam pads get so hot if they start to dry out; then you start burning through! I am with bondo on this though, his meguiars is worlds ahead of 3m sandpaper (for wetsanding at the least). I usually go from 1000-1500 and finish out with meguiars 2000[/quote]
A black foam pad? have you been watching ODG videos with the black foam pad and super duty :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:[/quote]
Heh…no not that black foam pad ding… I did see that video though and can’t say I was too impressed 😆 The black foam I use is 1 step more agressive than the yellow foam. But I don’t use 3m pads much so I guess I should have told you I was using the Malco/Ardex buffing system instead!This is why I don’t put chinese stuff on my car lol. Cant go wrong with the OEM
Looks like you got your work cut out for you man, but good luck on the project. Definately a step in the right direction by replacing the chinese junk with stock. I think alot of people underestimate the quality/durability of stock parts when they are in perfect running condition. Guys around here think a “hot” 350 means it actually runs on 8 cylinders. lol
