Matthew Smith
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NO I always include the sand and buff since i get trash like I do.. If I could keep it clean I would not sweat buffing it, but you already know the gig there :blink:
The engine bay is only going to get 1 coat of clear.. and trust me I know first hand thats more than the factory does 😉 ..
Jambs are getting 2 coats
Exterior is getting 3 coats ( only to ensure enough mils after the buff )
have ran the idea thru my head of 1 coating the jambs,. but I have never done that.. well I have never 1 coated anything but then again Im not doing a muscle car either 😛
Wonder what ole Bondo would do :exci :rofl
Something to think about Jim since you do collision work bro.. Maybe u should be looking into the groundcoats a little more ole buddy.. Could make blends allot easier 😉
Looks fantastic ding.. and by the way, the threads dont get old brother!!! They are the fuel that runs a site bro.. keep em coming
Car is prepped.. but Im too tired to set here and post up pictures… maybe in the morning I will take the time.. Engine bay was pretty dang easy to clean up.. Man this thing has kicked my butt this week.. Long long hours, but the pay off will be nice;)
Until the next time..
Oh yeah, I forgot also going to dye the top on this for him now.. for a little extra :woohoo:
Han why would i need to spray the yellow 2k over the whole thing then?? If I am going to use white base as my “sealer” then there is no reason for the added build or solvents right???
I of course will 2k the bodywork spots but the rest of the body is sanded with 320 and ready for sealer or paint
After sleeping on it I think I have a cheaper game plan.. I will just mix up some pure white base that I keep a gallon of here at all times.. Shoot a couple coats of that on to give me a white base to spray my yellow over.. Then i will let the base set overnight before I clear it.. that way it can gas off properly or set it in the sun after I shoot the color to let it gas..
Im just almost positive that my sealer wont cover in 1 coat over the lazer red so I would build allot of solvent with 2 coats of it anyways
Jimmo if I were sealing it all with the same yellow it would not matter right?? I mean if every panel has the same color yellow then it will all be the same right??
Im with Han here.. Detailing is a whole nother can of worms.. I make do with my set up, however it would not be ideal for a detailer by any stretch..
Just like paint products, their products are continually changing as well and I just cant keep up..
Plus all of you probably know that 3M is buying up everyone.. well most everyone.. Now the famous Presta I hear is under them along with Marhyde, Marson, Bondo corp etc etc etc etc
Did I mention I hate 3m’s prices 😛
everyone is always scared to use an aggressive grit for a re clear.. Cracks me up.. dont be afraid. Embrace change boys.. Flow coats are not collision oriented so let me an my ole buddy Jim lead you down the dark side 😛 Let the force be your guide
Update.. Yesterday I still did not get done what I wanted to again, but there are some things that cant be ignored even when I am on a deadline.. I cut grass and watched the kids for a couple hours, that kept me from getting to the jambs and under the hood..
This morning I am watching 2 of my kids while momma takes another to the doctor for a checkup :unsure:So anyways,. some progress was made yesterday
First I had to repair the smc damaged hood.. and of course once I started grinding on the spots that were damaged I went right thru it :cens :cens .. I shouted at Bondo early in the morning and he agreed that the best fix was resin and matte. Finding it turned out to be a chore.. I finally found a jobber with Evercoat panel adhesive/filler.. One of the guys who does tech work for them assured me I could use this as resin and also use cloth/matte along with it, so I did.. sanded great and did a fantastic job as far as I can tell
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4836.jpg[/IMG]
Holes were filled with matte also, then I had pre cut the matte I was going to lay over the whole edge to give it more strength and hope to prevent mapping
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4837.jpg[/IMG]
Filler/resin was spread over area, then matte laid down, then more f/r..
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4840.jpg[/IMG]
It was blocked down pretty straight and cloth was getting sanded out here and there.. this is pic before more f/r was added..
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4845.jpg[/IMG]
Now the second smear of this f/r..
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4850.jpg[/IMG]
This will get blocked down with 80 grit again and then as long as we are good it will get G2’d along with the rest of the hood.. I will not spread regular filler over this or glaze as I have had a bad bad experience with smc and stuff jut peeling or bubbling up a few months down the road even when i used supposedly compatible products :blush:
Then my favorite thing.. The owner tells me how straight the car is and how it does not need any bodywork.. I just smiled when he said that, as I already knew it would need work,. They always do
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4854.jpg[/IMG]
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Well thats all folks.. It will be noon before I can get on this since my wife is gone yet again.. The joys of parenthood 😉 😛
Scuff and shoot it, like the old timer told you :whistle:
thats slick work Dinger.. However I have come to expect that from you rich guys with pimp booths 😛 and a back yard full of parts :rofl j/k
Looks sweet I have to admit..
Han when I first moved in here from my old house where I had a shop, I tried hanging plastic all around including the door and put fans at the bottom of the door for exhaust.. Air was sucked in over top the plastic.. It gave a cleaner work, but still ended up with some trash.. I know the intake air was not super clean but it was best I could do in crunched time then
I am looking to keep from buffing… On collision work, I will buzz over it with a P1200 3M finishing disk and then buff from there.. Its faster than hand sanding with 2000 in my opinion and it buffs out easier than that too…
Normally I just clean out the garage floor, wipe down the walls a day or two before along with the cabinets.. No way I am going to pull everything out all the time for paint work,.. Just cant justify that, as I have allot of cabinets and counters that are all secured down to have places to put stuff..
Its a dirty environment, I just want to get away from buffing the collision stuff is all.. since this is yellow and every spec will show up especially once you start laying the clear, I was thinking maybe I could pull a makeshift booth off and keep everything clean for one job.. Tear it down and not use the gig again until I was doing an all over clear job :wak
a few more
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4817.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4824.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4825.jpg[/IMG]
Then a couple rough variations of how the hood could be when its finished.. The stripe will be done in paint and not a decal.. Took me forever to get that dang thing off with a heat gun and razor blade :S
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4819.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4814.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4820.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4821.jpg[/IMG]
I wanted to get it all sanded and the exterior dings repaired, but I ran out of time, which is normal around here..
Han, I think the only way I can reduce the clear and get away without buffing would be to make a makeshift pressurized booth.. I think I could do this fairly easy, however I dont know if the cost and time to make it and get it right would be better than just sanding and buffing..
I was thinking of using something like PVC, as i know somewhere on the net I have seen this done, but then I got to thinking how is it going to keep from rolling around since the pipe is round..
[b]
I dunno what do all of you guys think?? [/b]I dont mind spending the extra for the tubing since its going to be re used over and over again.. the plastic and filters will be the only expendable parts of the “booth”..
Update, I spent one day on the car now so far.. Probably around 9 hours give or take a bit including eating twice and a little time with my family..
I was able to get the exterior sanded I would say to 95%… there are edges, nooks and crannies that need scuffing etc.. but for the most part it is ready for the bodywork/dings to be fixed before prime..[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4815.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd258/BondoKing/96%20Stang%20Convertable/100_4828.jpg[/IMG]
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