jackcarlson
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ive found if i pull some of the stronger colors out an put em in a separate container i can add em back in an match the faded color i have some lil ez mix cups i put em in when mixing that look like Dixie cups i use hope this helps just try an stay in the formula an u should be fine :stoned
[quote=”protek9543″ post=28511]They even took the time to blend the door on this one.
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wow i didnt think i would ever see that car again :cens :weights :weightslooks nice!! :cheers
wow looks nice 😉
wow i missed that last truck thats really cool 😉
looks really nice !!
thats pretty trick an something ya dont see everyday thanks for posting those 😉
wow now thats a nice truck!!!almost a shame ta use it for work ….but thats the best thing about em nice job on that whole build…only thing i woulda done diff is woulda used the rubber floor mat instead of the carpeted one…but that does look sweet 😉 thanks for posting
wow nick !!! my kid says he dont envy u even in the jambs impressive!! he has done alota those where he used ta work
wow u wernt kidding when ya said that was a nice car…sure nice when ya dont have ta start with a rusted out turd.very nice work jeremy thanks for the pics nice post!!
looks nice…i woulda just caked it up with putty an told em not ta slam the doors on the truck 👿
looks great ding!!feels good when they leave dont it 😉 nice job!!
[quote=”Jayson M” post=28119]If that is working for you Bill you have been pretty lucky.I will say again you would be better off using an epoxy primer for a DTM situation like in your pictures.Try a little experiment with your etch primer,spray some on a test panel and let it sit for a few days.Now take some lacquer thinner and wipe the etch primer and you will find it will all come off.Etch primer is based on lacquer technology and will reflow/rewet when you hit it with solvent from base.Phosphoric acid will not make it harden it just bites into the steel.
A properly mixed urethane sealer or epoxy primer once cured will not be removed with lacquer thinner,very durable when cured and cross linked with your base and clear or single stage urethane.
I agree with the others about taking a paint course from the manufaturer that you are using in your shop,and Ryan is spot in in his explanation.[/quote]
X2 just cuz you got away with once doesnt make it the best way ta do it there are some etches that say ya can top coat but just cuz they say ya can doesnt mean ya should i learned that the hard way almost 20 yrs ago :blush: if ya etch u should always seal even a 1k enamel sealer is better than topcoating the etch directly but 2k sealer is the way ta go in my book anymore…bondo 😉[quote=”Idunnit” post=28107]We only do it if it has a moulding that covers the seam. We grind the bottom of the skin, paint the top, let it dry overnight then panel bond it the next day. We only weld the corners, grind the welds and put a little seam sealer over the weld and touch it up over the seam sealer. We normally do the roof skins the day they come in while the panel beaters are fixing the rest of the stuff. Basically got the vehicle out a day earlier so it didn’t have to be painted in two or sometimes three sessions. Much cleaner jobs as well, not forced to struggle with rigging up something to be able to reach everything on trucks and big suv’s. Easier to buff as well.[/quote]
thats a really good idea!!glad ya shared it 😉[quote=”wjieling” post=28078]I have 3000 in 1.2 as u can see my photo maple leaf edition 😉 and I love it. And I have 3000 hvlp for base. Maybe I just buy a nozzle kit foe my 3000 then buy a tekna.spent same money but get more. Lol[/quote]
sweet i didnt know ya cunucks had ur own special edition satas :blink: