Craig
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:p Hope that thing has a big block in it 😆 Fender in a can… 😛
:cheers Looking good Jeremy. That’s the kind of work I like! 🙂
Nice work Ben :clappy …but your camera sucks worse than mine..or you’ve got too much overspray on it :).
Looks pretty sweet!…the new nose is much nicer! :cheers
Any shops close by that can powder coat them for you?
That’s a bit of a mess eh.. Looks like multiple defects there, some blistering, could have pushed it outside before it was fully cured, might have gotten wet, could have trapped some moisture, some contamination during the curing process perhaps. It needs some attention for sure..perhaps a repaint.
[quote=”IROB-Z” post=33875]Will sand be too harsh for the galvanized coating on the floors? I am simply trying to get some surface rust and pitting spots, clean with Acetone and apply the epoxy. You arent the only one I have heard say sandblast is the way to go.[/quote]
If it’s rusty, the galvanizing is gone anyways, any epoxy you apply will probably last for as long as you own the car, unless you are driving in a salt belt zone through the winter.
Your surface will need a ‘tooth’..or be abraded for the epoxy to adhere, some epoxies will work directly over blasted metal…I still like to give it a bit of a scrub with some 80 on a DA just cuz I’m fussy.
What does your tech sheet say for “suitable surfaces” as far as prep required?
[quote=”IROB-Z” post=33870]Yeah I looked at the Sata guns but they are way out of my price range for a 1 time deal. Im about to remove the rear bumper, finish out the undercoating removal and blast it.
Im probably going to use soda instead of sand just because its water soluble.I seriously appreciate all your help on this! Im a 12 year Auto Technican (Mercedes and now GM) but dont know much about Auto Body.[/quote]
I’d do some research on soda blasting, it needs to be neutralized before priming to eliminate any adhesion problems. I understand the ‘water soluble’ characteristic is attractive, however not at the cost of failure.
I’d consider another media ( sand, glass, walnut )…used in combination with mechanically stripping/prepping..have fun!
Photobucket works pretty good.
http://3mcollision.com/products/featured-products/pps These, with the appropriate PPS adapter for the gun.
I can’t comment on the gun as I’m not familiar with it ( I’m a Sata slut ), just follow the tech (TDS) sheet for the primer you are using wrt tip size, pressure etc…could be anywhere from 1.4 – 1.8.
[quote=”hjjackson” post=33857]Thank you for looking.I am trying to get some pics but so far I’m having issues, too much glare I suspect. Any tips on that as well?[/quote]
Do you have a camera with a Macro setting?
Looks real clean..and probably faster now she’s lighter! ;). Spraying ‘vertically’ – 3M PPS cups work well, turning the cup upside down and pulling the trigger will evacuate the air in the ‘liner’, kinda making it a ‘pressure pot’.
[quote=”Iggy” post=33849]what have you ” work” here ? , I’m south of Kladusa , 40 km from Sarajevo . And we do have cars man , We are not Western Europe but we have lots of AMG’s , M3 , M6 , M5 , AM DB’s , Gallardos , 458’………….[/quote]
Let’s just say I had a gun, but it wasn’t a paint gun ;).
…ah where the magic begins ;)…looking good there guys. :cheers
[quote=”Iggy” post=33790]Here is some pictures of my workzz , i’m not taking pictures every day but here is some interesting cars from Bosnia ……
Me and my crew are taking every car and customer very seriously because we are offering a lifetime warranty on paint job . Cars are mainly BMW , Mercedes , Porsche , Audi’s .
When there’s no painting there is a wrapping with 3M’s wrap films or 3M window films…..so there is many work to do every day …..http://www.refinishnetwork.com/photo-gallery/4338-iggy/album?albumid=336%5B/quote%5D
Bosnia!…kewl, I spent over a year in Zagreb/Velika Kledusa ‘working’…real nice cars there for sure.