brandon dingwell
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- November 28, 2012 at 6:30 am #39431
[quote=”billgaino” post=28479]I’m telling you Jm ..they seal everything here. Looks great rikka, :exci did I just get some newboardcodes? :cheers :rofl[/quote]
no. we only seal when it’s the proper way to do the job. :wakNovember 21, 2012 at 7:10 am #39343Ya, the base is really thick. to get it to spray nice you need to over reduce it. at that point its no longer a low voc product so whats the point. i’ve heard of guys around here having delam issues with it as well
November 21, 2012 at 2:45 am #39335Thinking he means this stuff http://alsacorp.com/products/superglow/superglow.htm
but that soft touch stuff is pretty cool. it’s like a flat paint thats actually soft to the touch but doesnt scratch. I have an old school paper towel dispenser painted with that I had gotten through a panel exchange with another painter. Almost feels like the old school polycast wheels that came on the ford tempos in the 80’s
November 17, 2012 at 7:48 pm #39289Matrx AG40 is mixed 2:1. no flow enhancer. no reducer. only had it die once and that was when we added a little reducer to get around on a complete. no problem bakn it ether
November 17, 2012 at 7:02 pm #39281The push transtar clear big around here, but the ones selln it even tell you to to shy away from motor city.
we’ve been using matrix ag40. winds up around $25 RTS QTNovember 17, 2012 at 5:57 am #39269It is a nice color, just too much of it. needs an accent color. maybe even just keeping the chrome trim would have broken it up some
November 17, 2012 at 1:12 am #39260Well it’s uglier than it was before :p but i guess thats not really your fault :rofl
November 14, 2012 at 9:36 pm #39202All you need is a good 2k clear. your jambing clear is likely lacquer and the cause of the cracking. it will not do this with 2k Urethane clear. no need for any AP.
November 14, 2012 at 7:50 am #39182You should buff the car before you give it back to the customer. If the car isn’t loaded with dirt(it shouldn’t be with that sweat booth set up) you can just level the nibs and buff. No need to sand the whole car
November 14, 2012 at 3:16 am #39168[quote=”lild” post=28233]How did u get the guy to give u the cheesey thumbs up smile. The car looks great.[/quote]
Wasnt difficult. I was really upset he shaved before hand. He had a real nice set of mutton chops going on before :woohoo:November 14, 2012 at 3:12 am #39166[quote=”billgaino” post=28241]That should stop the chips, but I have a question about why the doo handles are covered in paper? Why not just cover the whole thing with the plastic sheet? Am I missing something? I tape the door quarter seal to keep overspray from getting under plastic. Is that it?[/quote]
Access to the handles to open the doors and do the jambs at the same time. look at the photo of the drivers side and you will see the front door openNovember 13, 2012 at 5:36 am #39149real nice work there. I’ll keep you in mind if I get anyone looking to have some airbrushing done. Still havent figured out exactly where you are yet :unsure:
November 11, 2012 at 9:53 pm #39103Honestly that bedside wasnt terrible. Not sure how your metal skills are, but it probably would have been a better repair to fix it than cut it up like that
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