brandon dingwell

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  • November 28, 2012 at 6:30 am #39431

    [quote=”billgaino” post=28479]I’m telling you Jm ..they seal everything here. Looks great rikka, :exci did I just get some newboardcodes? :cheers :rofl[/quote]
    no. we only seal when it’s the proper way to do the job. :wak

    November 21, 2012 at 7:10 am #39343

    Ya, the base is really thick. to get it to spray nice you need to over reduce it. at that point its no longer a low voc product so whats the point. i’ve heard of guys around here having delam issues with it as well

    November 21, 2012 at 2:45 am #39335

    Thinking he means this stuff http://alsacorp.com/products/superglow/superglow.htm

    but that soft touch stuff is pretty cool. it’s like a flat paint thats actually soft to the touch but doesnt scratch. I have an old school paper towel dispenser painted with that I had gotten through a panel exchange with another painter. Almost feels like the old school polycast wheels that came on the ford tempos in the 80’s

    November 17, 2012 at 7:48 pm #39289

    Matrx AG40 is mixed 2:1. no flow enhancer. no reducer. only had it die once and that was when we added a little reducer to get around on a complete. no problem bakn it ether

    November 17, 2012 at 7:02 pm #39281

    The push transtar clear big around here, but the ones selln it even tell you to to shy away from motor city.
    we’ve been using matrix ag40. winds up around $25 RTS QT

    November 17, 2012 at 5:57 am #39269

    It is a nice color, just too much of it. needs an accent color. maybe even just keeping the chrome trim would have broken it up some

    November 17, 2012 at 1:12 am #39260

    Well it’s uglier than it was before :p but i guess thats not really your fault :rofl

    November 14, 2012 at 9:36 pm #39202

    All you need is a good 2k clear. your jambing clear is likely lacquer and the cause of the cracking. it will not do this with 2k Urethane clear. no need for any AP.

    November 14, 2012 at 7:50 am #39182

    You should buff the car before you give it back to the customer. If the car isn’t loaded with dirt(it shouldn’t be with that sweat booth set up) you can just level the nibs and buff. No need to sand the whole car

    November 14, 2012 at 7:30 am #39178

    Its probably the clear you are using.

    November 14, 2012 at 3:16 am #39168

    [quote=”lild” post=28233]How did u get the guy to give u the cheesey thumbs up smile. The car looks great.[/quote]
    Wasnt difficult. I was really upset he shaved before hand. He had a real nice set of mutton chops going on before :woohoo:

    November 14, 2012 at 3:14 am #39167

    That is awesome Scott. You certainly do some real nice work

    November 14, 2012 at 3:12 am #39166

    [quote=”billgaino” post=28241]That should stop the chips, but I have a question about why the doo handles are covered in paper? Why not just cover the whole thing with the plastic sheet? Am I missing something? I tape the door quarter seal to keep overspray from getting under plastic. Is that it?[/quote]
    Access to the handles to open the doors and do the jambs at the same time. look at the photo of the drivers side and you will see the front door open

    November 13, 2012 at 5:36 am #39149

    real nice work there. I’ll keep you in mind if I get anyone looking to have some airbrushing done. Still havent figured out exactly where you are yet :unsure:

    November 11, 2012 at 9:53 pm #39103

    Honestly that bedside wasnt terrible. Not sure how your metal skills are, but it probably would have been a better repair to fix it than cut it up like that

Viewing 15 posts - 286 through 300 (of 1,733 total)