brandon dingwell

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Viewing 15 posts - 346 through 360 (of 1,733 total)
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  • August 24, 2012 at 9:49 pm #38043

    [quote=”s2kprem” post=27217]how have they worked out for you? have people been calling after putting them up[/quote]

    They sure have :whistle:

    August 24, 2012 at 5:52 am #38033

    you can do all the texturing with a normal or touchup gun. The veining would be a little easier with a airbrush. The Iwata ecplises are pretty inexpensive and are pretty decent for general airbrush work. Check out http://www.coastairbrush.com/products.asp?cat=32
    and craig fraisers books are pretty good guide for some of that stuff. they are at the bottom of the page http://www.coastairbrush.com/products.asp?cat=324

    August 24, 2012 at 5:46 am #38031

    did you do sprayouts to verify match or are you just stick checking the color

    August 23, 2012 at 4:26 pm #38012

    [quote=”skz71″ post=27185]yes it is a hvlp gun you think presure way to hi go back to 30/35[/quote]
    30 is what it calls for
    http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraygundepot/docs/A8.pdf

    August 23, 2012 at 5:50 am #38002

    What devillbis gun are you using that requires 45psi at the gun?

    August 22, 2012 at 5:47 am #37984

    I kinda liked the caddy convert. :cheer:

    August 21, 2012 at 11:56 pm #37974

    yes. 1.3 will be fine for your topcoats

    August 21, 2012 at 9:08 pm #37967

    1.3 tip is a little small for a high build primer. 1.8 is about average for a primer gun. if you cant get another gun/tip then you will certainly need to reduce it with the correct reducer. you will also likely need more coat to get the build you need out of it

    August 21, 2012 at 5:32 pm #37964

    I find it hard to believe your Jobbers dont carry a 2k sealer :huh: Nason has a few different ones. Sealers is required to provide proper adhesion to the substrate. Top coats are not designed to go over raw materials (plastic, metal, etc) Also sealer helps provide the appropriate film build for the whole paint system. to little film build over bare substrates can cause paint failure.
    In one post you say you use nason SS in another you say you use Chromabase all the time. Which one is it. I Know for a fact Dupont does not recommend base coat or single stage to go directly over A/P without a primer/sealer. Check out there TDS sometime. It’s always good to read them.

    http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/dr/ChromaSystem/K-15902_PlasRepair.pdf

    http://pc.dupont.com/

    August 20, 2012 at 11:10 pm #37959

    I just prep and tape the vehicle properly. No issues here

    August 20, 2012 at 6:07 am #37946

    Depends on the bumper. Primed plastic is prepped differently than raw plastic. Raw gets cleaned and scuffed, adhesion promoter then sealer the base and clear. Primed gets sanded them sealer then base and clear. I would stay away from bulldog and use tha ap from your paint system

    August 19, 2012 at 5:21 am #37939

    Clear the whole panel or roll the tape off the body line below the stripe. It isn’t that complicated. Of the stripe was fpnna wrinkle and fall off, all these guys wouldn’t be telling you to do it

    August 17, 2012 at 5:51 pm #37922

    Pretty sure Alsa corp has a candy black. Not sure who else does

    August 17, 2012 at 3:50 am #37901

    [quote=”bondomerchant” post=27087]look at the backside of the hood the sik basturd even cut an polished that 2[/quote]
    Did he start with 400

    August 17, 2012 at 1:11 am #37893

    You could also just mix some black tint into your clear base coat and use that. Then clear coat

Viewing 15 posts - 346 through 360 (of 1,733 total)