brandon dingwell

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Viewing 15 posts - 931 through 945 (of 1,733 total)
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  • January 13, 2011 at 6:59 am #27104

    Grab an estimating guide and read the P-pages. It will really help you understand how estimates are and should be written.The paint time per panel includes not only sanding, cleaning, prepping but also mixing color, putting it in the gun, cleaning the gun, etc. since some things you are only doing once while painting the car ( you dont mix up new color for each panel right?) they are considered overlap operations. Adjacent major panels get .4 deducted and non-adjacent major panels get .2 deducted. Its the same deduction that is taken if you just replaced a fender, door and blended the 1/4.
    The real question to ask is why is it ok to deduct time for a blend panel. does it really only take 1/2 the time to prep it, tape it and paint it as a full panel paint would

    January 13, 2011 at 6:14 am #27101

    only easy way to do that Mo is to hire a $10hr and let him have at it :whistle:
    but really wire wheels and a dynazip are about the best way for all the nooks and crannies. da and mini da for the spots you can get at with those. maybe a spot blaster for the little corners you can get at with anything else

    January 12, 2011 at 3:25 am #27055

    if there are 2 preppers for 1 painter and the shop is flat rate then both preppers hours need to come out of the paint time. the shop shouldnt pay one prepper out of their pocket and the other prepper from the paint time on the estimate. Really if any time is being taken from the painter for the prepper the painter should have a say in it. if he thinks one of the preppers is slacking he should take that up with the boss. if one prepper and one painter can handle all the work than the other prepper should go

    January 11, 2011 at 2:02 am #27022

    [quote=”TheDoctor” post=16972]Congratulations, you are moving along quite nicely…it’s one thing to buy one, it’s something totally different to build your own. Enjoy the fruits of your labor.[/quote]
    and something completely diff. to gut to the studs and redo it. would have been a lot easier to start from scratch :blush:

    January 10, 2011 at 4:48 pm #27000

    Thanks guys. Been a long road and still got more to go. but with the rock up it seems like its getting a lot closer, Hopefully we’ll be able to get in there in the spring

    January 10, 2011 at 6:20 am #26976

    good looking job nex :clappy :clappy

    January 7, 2011 at 4:54 pm #26912

    looks good.
    but why didnt you mix the flake in clear base

    January 7, 2011 at 2:37 am #26878

    Ryans right
    If you dont have a good company to install and service the booth you want then you’ll have major problems. Talk to other shops in your area and see who they use and get some feedback from them about the quality of the install and the follow up services. I never met a shop owner that wasnt willing to let you know about being unhappy with someones service

    January 6, 2011 at 8:40 am #26857

    i cant complain about my garmat. had it for 5 years with no problems. of course i have just a little over 1100 hours on it so ita maybe 6 months to a year in a big production shop. the biggest thing with a booth is the quailty of the construction for the cabin and the components that they use to build it. you can use anyone’s electronics to control it. i can get any of the mechanical components should they fail right through Grainger. makes it easy to repair if i need to by myself.
    A buddy of mine worked at a nissan dealer. they put in a futurecure booth. nice big booth with great lighting. a lot less expensive than mine, but the gaps in the panels looked a lot like that olds i repaired a few years back. you could through a dead cat through them. no amount of silicone was gonna fix that.

    January 3, 2011 at 6:38 am #26770

    about time you let one of the girls have a beer 😛

    December 30, 2010 at 7:54 pm #26608

    [quote=”Ben” post=16594]I’ve used a few Garmat 3000s. Very expensive (well over 100k). The booth is well lit, excellent air flow, consistent pressure, heats quickly/well, not bad at reaching temp for bake cycle. I would gladly use one again. If it were my money, however, I think I would look for a more cost efficient alternative.[/quote]
    about 60k installed with fire suppression 😉

    December 30, 2010 at 4:52 pm #26604

    [quote=”bobwires” post=16589]the car you linked to there looks REALLY clean! not my favorite style of car, but to each his own. I really don’t like much of anything from the 80’s. The music, the hair, the sweaters. I’m thankful I wasn’t around for most of them :lol1[/quote]
    The 80’s Rocked :rock :rock :rock dont know what you were missing.
    Of course that car looks kinda like a chevy celebrity Not quite the level of a Luv but close :rofl :rofl :rofl
    Like the others said Macioce. guide coat and lots of blocking by hand

    December 30, 2010 at 4:48 pm #26603

    [quote=”lild” post=16580]if you ever watch the show with foose, you’ll notice that put a coat of bondo on new replaced panels to get it straight as can be. also another thing to consider, is the clear. if your guns isn’t set right, it could put the clear on a little heavy. giveing a ripple effect.[/quote]
    Thats when you need that SPI urethane wave reducer :rofl :rofl :rofl

    December 30, 2010 at 4:45 pm #26602

    Truck came out great Lild
    And there is no way Jay that I would have a sticker like that in my truck :whistle:

    December 29, 2010 at 2:38 am #26542

    Didnt ODG used to paint those southern comfort trucks :rofl :rofl :rofl

Viewing 15 posts - 931 through 945 (of 1,733 total)