Dennis Lambert
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I haven’t used the sata cups but I prefer the dkups over the 3m ones . They have a better way of connecting their lids to their adaptor .Much more secure imo. You can get the fitting out of your sata gun with a bolt and spacer they provide and it doesn’t damage your gun. Also the outer cups are easier to clean since they don’t have a bottom. The only thing I don’t like about them is that the liners don’t stand up for temporary storage as well as the 3m. That being said I am currently using the 3m cups because I just switched jobs and work along side another painter who dosen’t do change very well.
Just by looking at the pic the substrate looks kinda too shiny to be sanded. If it is a new replacement panel the e-coat might have been lightly scuffed and base applied directly over it which is not recommended.
[quote=”cdykstra81″ post=36476]Diambert are you also doing it on aftermarket parts?[/quote]
Yes. It may not be recomended as far as axalta but I have never had a problem with capa certified parts which is all we use. Not sure if I woud try this on the cheap (quality) parts.I do this all the time cutting in new parts with standox and axalta sealers. Standox guarantees this as long as you clean the panels with their antistatic cleaner and a scotchbrite pad. Sounds like scuffing but it doesn’t leave any sand scratches to speak of. They just want the surface to be really clean. I have done this on the outside of parts on ocassion but not much because the e coat is hardly ever blemish free or smooth enough . I usually dont use a suff pad when doing this on jambs. The only thing I’ve found is the sealer doesn’t always adhere to factory seam sealer like around hoods and doors so I always scuff the seam sealer with a red pad. I know all of this may draw criticism from some folks but it has worked fine for me for many years. :cheer:
I try to keep atleast one eye open while blending. Lol . But seriously as mentioned earlier in the post it’s very important to have the right flake and flop in your color so its really nice to have a spray-card before you start blending. This may sound weird but something I’ve started doing is to first
get coverage then put down blending clear from the edge of the base to just about the edge of the panel with another gun and imediately blend into it then I jack the pressure up to around 29 psi and go over the previous coat holding the gun back a little putting sort of a mist coat (but not a dry coat ) almost imediately over the last. This has been working well for me. BTW , I spray standox solvent.I have the ws 400 evo with the hd 1.3 tip . In my opinion this is an excelent clear gun. I also have an lph 400 with a 1.4 and an orange cap. It does a nice job also but I like the supernova better particuarly for hs clears. I would sugest that you demo any gun before you buy it . These guns may or may not do well for your spray style.
:woohoo: :rofl Wow!! :exci
Looks good. :rock :rock
We use a product from ez mix called mould prep. Its not cheap but works great. You use it in a soaking tray and submerge the mouldings in it for about a day or so and the tape usually wipes right off. There are some mouldings they sugest not soaking in it it but you can do most of them.
Welcome aboard. Good luck! :welc
I sprayed the saddle bag yesterday. :rock Everything went well. That ColorRite paint did alright. Kinda strange that you add 2k reducer to it . Two coats base, two coats candy produced a really good match. 😛
[quote=”jim c” post=35383]well good luck with it. be sure to have something with the original color on it in the booth while you are spraying. cant match a candy without having something for a side by side comparison since every coat gets darker and darker.[/quote
Thanks. That’s a problem since all I have is the saddle bag. I left part of it unsanded so I can make a let down test panel with different amounts of candy. Then I’ll sand the rest of it and try to keep my pressure, distance, overlap, the same and hope for the best. 😛I would feel better if it was ppg but the Harley shop wanted to supply the color. This is the first job I’ve done for them. They said it could lead to a lot more if it looks nice. Not really sure if it will be a good thing or not. :unsure:
It’s a candy color :woohoo: Guess I’ll make a spray card like I do with 3 stage pearls. I’ve sprayed candies before but never had to actually match anything with them. This should be fun. 😆
You may be alright with that. I spray standox mostly. The sealer I use is 3:1:30% so I almost always use a medium hardner and fast reducer. This works well for me. You may want to experiment with it and see what gives you the best results. Also with sealer I have seen guys pile it on to hide stuff. That causes die-back due to the surface skimming over and solvents trying to come out later.
