Tyler Fuller
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
My problem is definitely that I can paint, want to paint, but don’t have the opportunity…yet…
I consider myself a near-pro at wetsanding/cutting/buffing/polishing, and I’ve turned some pretty horrible paintjobs into beautiful cars…
So why not paint it myself and make it look perfect?
So I want to paint… First step realized!
12 step program? haha
Sikkens…eh? I’m pretty sure you’re meaning “Sika”?
I’m pretty sure you are…
He is correct, the windshield pinchweld primer is far superior to anything you have. It is designed to work between metal and urethane, preferably no paint.
Therefore, best adhesion would be no paint, or at least scuffed paint…
So unless you’re sanding the pinchwelds well after painting, best to just mask them and leave them!
I have personally seen OE installations fail due to bad paint adhesion… And even more after-market paint failures…
Urethane bonded to paint only has the strength of paint.
Urethane bonded to metal has the strength of metal. Almost.
Notice online they have a hard time showing you the duty-cycle of anything other than the $2000+ compressors? haha
Speedaire 7.5hp $2199 25cfm @ 175psi… with 80% duty cycle… now turn that down to 100 psi with a long copper line… and you have a higher duty-cycle.. That can run long enough to paint an entire car.
This is a nice compressor IMHO:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_158284_158284
For the price, that is a good compressor…
Ok good luck!
“Wax” needs to be used by the CUSTOMER 6-8 weeks after delivery. 90 days optimally.
Until then final polishing is fine, maybe a glaze on top of final polishing if you really want to make it sparkle…
Definitely don’t need wax in a bodyshop. Glazes are fine.. Meguiars #7 I think is body-shop safe!