Han Kim
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The primers and clears i use are flexible. But if you’re not sure, it’s a good idea to add it. Makes possible future
repairs easier going.I use SEM Super Flex when needed.
Thanks Ryan!
I’ve made lots of progress. Just not financially. Too busy working in the shop, rather than on the shop… 🙂
Thanks fellas!
Kent,
Try reducing the Euro 2020 4:1:1.5 or 4:1:2 and maybe just 4:1 for one coat deals. The 2K i reduce around 20%
With base, it comes down to the person mixing it regardless of brand. Hope you find a good source as i have.
I no longer do enough volume to justify getting a system in. Well, i do now, but last year was so traumatic,
i’m holding off. I’ve been scared straight! But i digress…Get these wool pads. I’ve tried so many and thought they’re all more or less the same. Wrong…
Majority of the jobs this year has been more meaty and customer pay. Last year was terrible, guess they were
waiting for their cars to get more banged up.These wool pads are seriously good: http://micro-surface.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=58&zenid=1cf5753cdea025004610da6f4eb75f10
But you’ll want a foamed backing plate: http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-solo-easy-buff-w66-rotary-backing-plate-6-inch.html
Not married so i giggle alone. Sometimes at my own paint job.
Ok, i’ll get box of those. Gloves come in handy for final prep and when detailing.
If you like Cupran special, then you’ll love 3M Paint Buster hand cleaner.
Some will ALWAYS want something for nothing and it doesn’t matter what you say. They’ve made up their minds
long before they ever saw you. Basically, don’t sweat it; it’s part of the game. It’s difficult to let someone think your
a rip off, but let it be and move on. Be good to the customers you already have.When i sense these types of individuals – and they can be easy spot – my standard reply is the same.
What i say (slight variations too):
This is what i do for a living. I don’t advertise. It’s strictly word of mouth. I’m not the cheapest nor the fastest.
I charge what i charge and i stand behind my work. Please, get as many estimates as you can, but remember,
you get what you pay for.It’s my nice way of saying F*** off. And i’m done in minutes.
Come up with something similar for yourself to say. Don’t bother explaining every detail or how good your work is.
I’m glad a Maaco opened up less than 500 feet from me. I just point to them and send the fudgers there.
The Transtar Nomix seems pretty good. Good coverage. But they should come out
with a color chip book with all the variants. That would help tremendously but probably
too big of an investment for them. Also, by trying to guess at the best variant, more
product is used; more profit…Shelf life for the toners are about a year. But they’re fairly cheap. A standard setup
runs about 4g’s (with software). Not sure on the number of toners (80?).It’s still fairly new to the market. About 3 years now. I’ll try to get more inside info…
What low VOC bases are available for you?
I’ve used Limco Supreme low VOC stuff. It’s extremely cheap ($15/pt.) and not very good.
BUT, I’ve gotten away with it for many jobs.Since the areas are somewhat isolated, he just didn’t clean the surface well enough.
Ha! That looks pretty damn good. And probably more durable than just staining.
Welcome aboard!
Congrats poppa!
The amber cast is actually there for UV protection in low end clears. Gues it really does work!
I had lots of issues too as it’s too noticable. But all my clears are clear now…I agree that prep and application is likely the biggest factor in durability.
Maybe with the high-end clears, after the cut n’ buff, there wasn’t
enough build for protection. And cheaper clears might last longer
because a cut n’ buff isn’t done at all, or very little. Too many factors…