Rob M

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  • November 4, 2013 at 4:20 am #45290

    Okay, add oribital sander, 80 grit. $120
    1 gallon DTM epoxy $290.00
    1 50 gallon Air compressor (have it)
    Eastwood Concours HVLP Primer/Base Gun 1.2-1.8 $200
    Respirator $50.00
    Sand Blaster 100lb $185
    Media $30
    and 3M PPS stuff… Not sure which size and filter??

    I am sold on the Dupont stuff so I don’t mind paying for it. I will be painting the undercarriage when it’s said and done. Not necessarily a show car (as I like to drive it and not be concerned about losing a show for having a little fun) but… I do want it to be nice. So probably black or body color. Especially if the good stuff comes out green.

    As far as blasting goes, I keep hearing “Black Beauty” and “Starblast” …. which is the good stuff?

    November 4, 2013 at 4:01 am #45288

    Thanks for the warm welcoms guys… it’s not easy admitting you dont know what your doing!

    The car will be going back the same color. Most people repaint in a more popular color but I like the maroon and it changes shade and color depending on the light… So why not keep it? The gold stripe and wheels, probably not staying unless I find some nice black wheels that dont have a polished lip or dish to clash it. Putting wheels on is a huge decision making process for me. :wak

    Cromax. Sounds like a cool job your dad had. I would have followed his footsteps if I were you. I’ve had many thirdgens as well. The only thing that kept me from owning more were the Fox Bodies I owned in between.

    Here is something similar to what I am looking to accomplish.

    November 4, 2013 at 2:09 am #45285

    DuPont™ 2510S™/2540S™/2570S™/2580CR™/2590S™ Epoxy
    DTM

    Surface Preparation
     Clean painted surfaces thoroughly with mild detergent and water.
     For substrates other than plastic or fiberglass, clean surfaces with Prep-Sol® 3919S™.
     For rigid plastic or fiberglass, wipe with Plas-Stick® 2319S™ or 2320S™.
     For flexible fascia, refer to the DuPont Plastics Refinishing System
    1. To Use Epoxy DTM Primer/Sealer as a Precoat:
    Finish sanding with P320 grit paper or finer.
    Final cleaning should be done with DuPont™ Final Klean™ 3901S™ or DuPont™ Final Klean™ 3909S™.
    2. To Use Epoxy DTM Primer/Sealer as a non-sanding primer:
    o For application to OEM replacement parts, sand with P320 grit or finer.
    o For application direct to steel, sand with P80 grit followed by P180 grit or finer.
    o For application to aluminum, galvanized or stainless, clean with DuPont™ Final Klean™ 3901S™ or DuPont Final Klean™ 3909S™ or sand with P320 grit.
    o For OEM and painted surfaces, featheredge with P320 grit or finer.
    o Remove sanding sludge with DuPont™ Final Klean™ 3901S™ or DuPont™ Final Klean™ 3909S™.
    Tips For Success
     Wipe cleaned surface with clean white rag on finger tip. If white rag turns gray, surface is not clean.
     For difficult to clean substrates, use appropriate surface preparation agent. (E.g. for aluminum, use DuPont™ 225S™ and for ferrous metals use DuPont™ 5717S™.)
    Gun Setups*
    Compliant
    Siphon Feed: 1.6 mm – 1.8 mm
    Gravity Feed: 1.4 mm – 1.6 mm
    HVLP
    Siphon Feed: 1.5 mm – 1.8 mm
    Gravity Feed: 1.4 mm – 1.6 mm
    Air Pressure*
    Compliant
    Siphon Feed: 30 – 45 psi @ the gun.
    Gravity Feed: 30 – 40 psi @ the gun.
    Pressure Feed 1.2 mm fluid tip, 35-40 psi @ the gun (fluid flow-14-16 oz/minute)
    HVLP
    Siphon Feed: 8-10 psi @ the gun cap
    Gravity Feed: 8-10 psi @ the gun cap
    *The listed setups cover the usual range for various application equipment.

    November 4, 2013 at 1:40 am #45282

    Will sand be too harsh for the galvanized coating on the floors? I am simply trying to get some surface rust and pitting spots, clean with Acetone and apply the epoxy. You arent the only one I have heard say sandblast is the way to go.

    November 4, 2013 at 1:13 am #45269

    Yeah I looked at the Sata guns but they are way out of my price range for a 1 time deal. Im about to remove the rear bumper, finish out the undercoating removal and blast it.
    Im probably going to use soda instead of sand just because its water soluble.

    I seriously appreciate all your help on this! Im a 12 year Auto Technican (Mercedes and now GM) but dont know much about Auto Body.

    November 3, 2013 at 10:38 pm #45263

    So one of these:
    http://www.eastwood.com/ew-concours-primer-base-gun-1-2and1-8-tips-2-cups.html
    with one of these:
    http://www.ellsworth.com/3m-pps-16121-high-output-mini-pressure-cup/?gclid=CKLomYegyboCFc9i7AoddzUAsQ
    will keep the gun siphoning and not cause any cavitation?

    November 3, 2013 at 8:16 pm #45257

    Heres where Im at right now…

    The above pictures do not have rust. It’s leftover grease from the undercoating. I am going to wash it down with Acetone and then apply a sealer.
    The thing is… My trusted painter told me to use a DTM epoxy on the galvanized metal… and at nearly $300 bucks for a gallon…It’s expensive! So how do you “spray” the car with a HVLP gun when your working on your back??

    November 3, 2013 at 8:09 pm #45252

    What ive used to get this crap off:

    The tool is a Ryobi multi tool with nylon d cup brush and nylon wheel. It does a nice job when used with autozone engine degreaser and assorted scrapers.

    November 3, 2013 at 8:02 pm #45247

    YES, thats my GF helping me remove the rear end, gas tank and suspension AND** SCRAPE the undercoating.

    The undercoating: