Jason
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It varies from product to product. The best i’ve found is the alsa range although pricey. The problem is, it just doesn’t last. 3-4 months down the line is just looks like really faded silver basecoat and has no gloss what so ever. Its been a few years since i’ve used it so may have changed.
The alsa do a whole range, first product it essentially is a black straight gloss. This is then left to cure so all the solvent has evaporated. The chrome effect is then applied straight over the black without any preparation. You apply it until you achieve the desired effect, then apply an intermittent sealer coat, then clear coat.
Hi mate.
Just thought i’d report back with some results from my guns. The 1.3 Base setup is absolutely fantastic! It lays base like nothing i’ve ever used before. So flat and even, i’m finding 7/10 jobs don’t even need to be drop coated which is improving time and finish when laying the clear afterwards. I’d highly recommend it as an upgrade. Blending of coarse metallics is effortless with a quick ‘flick’ at the end of each pass sufficient enough to make the blend invisible. I’ve also noticed a much improved colour matching, particulary on bumpers which are always a pain when painting edge to edge. (4 Turns out on fluid, 1/4 turn in from wide open on fan) Just incase you still have that demo gun.The 1.3HD Clear i’m not finding so great at the moment. I can’t exactly say whats wrong with it i’m just really struggling to get it dialled in for when I want to really glass up a pannel. I find this alot worse when using 6659 Nexa express clear at 3:1 when compared with other clears mixed at 2:1 (Standox VOC easy clear, VOC Premium clear, Max Meyer 0300 clear, Mipa HS Clear) Tried all of the above clears and still achieving less than desireable results when I really want to glass something up so its definately gun setup/application related. The only way I can currently describe the difference between the 1.3HD and the regular 1.3, is that you instantly notice the extra fluid available to you, yet it doesn’t seem to lay down as nice. However with the 1.3 I felt a little starved for fluid and large jobs were a bit of a chore.
Any idea’s from anybody here? I’m currently using 3.5 turns out on fluid. 1/4 turn in from wide open on fan.
I’ll report back with some results of both guns later in the week Andy. I only received them Friday afternoon and had a respray on a mini to do in Straight Gloss so haven’t put any paint through either. I’ve not tried the base version either.
I went for the 1.3 HD setup as I was still finding the 1.3 a bit slow for the larger jobs. If I don’t like it i’ll swap back to the 1.3 as I was getting nice results with it, albeit a bit slower than i’m used to.Just a quick update for anyone who may search this topic in the future.
I received my new pair of WS400 Supernova’s today and the fluid tip is clearly stamped with the setup on both guns. 1.3HD and 1.3 Respectively. Must have just been the demo version that didn’t have the parts marked.
I’d consider the WS400 Supernova as well. It really is a great bit of kit. I’ve had one on demo for a fortnight and received a pair of my own today!
Are you basing straight over the old bumper? If so and you having no joy i’d be enclined to wet on wet prime the bumper so as to start fresh from a colour perspective.
One trick i was told for helping match bumpers it to give it a really good clean with n anti static cleaner. Apparently the static in the bumpers can cause the various particles to float about whilst the base it still wet. This could give the appearance of it being lighter.
Without seeing the car, and seeing how far out it is. You could try, putting the base on a bit wetter, drop the temperature by a few degrees. Also tacking off the basecoat between coats to remove any flakes that are stood up. All these can make it darker but really depends how far out it is.
Sounds like too much material then. Dial the fluid control in a bit and see if that helps. What gun are you using? Have you got the correct setup?
What temperature are you spraying at? How long is your flash off in between coats? When i say extend past the edge, I just mean never stop a pass at the edge of a pannel. No matter which way you do it. I personally have long enough arms to do two doors in one pass with a slight side shuffle. Everyone has their own technique though, no right or wrong way.
What clear coat are you using?
I had a feeling that was what you’d be referring too. Just wanted to clarify before I barrelled in with some advice! 😛
That can be caused by a number of things.
First thing i’d make sure it that when you complete each pass of the door you extend right past the edge of the door. You don’t want to stop each pass on the edge as this can lead to a build up
Secondly, You may just be applying too much material. Try dialling the fluid in a little and see if that helps.
Third, what temp are you spraying at? Also how long is your flash off period at the temperature? If all the solvent hasn’t escaped before your second coat this could contribute to this. Edges are particularly susceptible.
Are you baking the jobs? If so how quick do you turn the oven onto bake after applying the last coat of clear?
Can you elaborate a bit further? ‘Champagning’ isn’t a term i’ve ever come across before? It’s highly likely your referring to something I can help with, just using an unfamiliar term lol
I can get Abralon’s to last an age with a bit of moisture (Not wet). I find they clog real quick when wet. I Use a plant spray bottle with a mix of 4-1 with water and water based degreaser. A few light squirts on the abralon and away you go. I find the slight soapiness of the water based degreaser keeps the pad real clean.
I used one 2000 pad today for a Mondeo Bonnet, two wings and two doors. Still cutting great come the end..
Cool did see that site but it is fairly pricey in general compared to prices I can get. Nice to know I wont have to worry about servicing parts any time soon though :dnc
Thanks again for all the help. Much appreciated. The info about for iwata seems scarce at very best. I cant understand why more people don’t know about them as they really are a fantastic gun!
Think i’ll get my order in over the next week for a Base/Clear pair! :rock
I think I may just have to wing it and place an order for a Base gun aswell. My PPG rep seems to think he can get a pair for £500 for me. All part of a deal because we have just had a new install of two complete schemes. :dnc Seems too good to turn down.
Thats interesting info to know about the HOK/Debeer tech guy. I can see why he was impressed though, so easy to use. I was achieving excellent finishes almost instantly. After 3 days/18 Jobs i’ve got i’d say 96% dialled in. Few more days and it’ll be perfect I think.
Have you had to order any spares Andy? What are prices like? Can you get them quickly when needed? Not many places stock the guns round this part.
[quote=”Andy T” post=22009]Pretty sure that’ll be the 1.3 Jason.
Are you getting close in with it? I spray at 4″ or less from the panel, with a fast or very fast arm speed. Others that spray at a more conventional distance narrow down the extremely wide fan, which will give you the feel of more fluid output.[/quote]
Can I just say a big thanks for the tip Andy. I would never have thought I needed to be that close, if I did that with my pro it’d be all over the floor before I finished my second pass lol!
Been trying it today, getting in really close to the pannel and it works like an absolute charm! It would have taken me weeks to figure that out! I’m now back to my regular fast arm speed and enjoying using it 10x more! Really is an amazing gun! I’ve only had to do one bit of polishing all day, everything else has been mint straight from the gun. It lays down that ever so slight factory peel effect lovely but can easily be turned into glass like finish with minor adjustment Really liking it.Thanks for all the pointers and info people, its been a massive help. Really helped get the most out of the gun whilst I have it on loan!
Has anyone tried the Base version? Whats it like for laying down those troublesome metallics like EZR (Pug/Cit) or 1C0 (Toyota)?
To be honest i’ve only had it since yesterday morning, so i’ve no where near dialled it in to its optimum performance. However I already like it so much my GTI Pro doesn’t get a look in. Its centre heavy spray pattern was causing me all sorts of grief with boil on the Max Meyer clear in particular.
The thing that got me today was I had to paint a full side of a Hilux and being used to using the GTI pro my strokes along the car are very very quick. With the WS-400 I found myself moving much much slower and as such finding tad more peel than i’m used to. Again not a fair test with 2 days use compares with 2 years on the GTI and it was by no means a bad finish.
I didn’t have the gun as close as 4″ though, I was closer than with my GTI but i’d say about 5-6″ away from pannel. I’ll have more chance to play tomorrow so will try getting a bit closer to the pannel.
Its been absolutely fine for all the smaller jobs i’ve done (Strokes still much slower but no noticeable quality loss when compared with the Pro) I’m just wondering if a 1.4 Fluid Tip would more suit my style. May just give me that little more speed I desire with the ability to dial the fluid control in a bit for the smaller jobs? I can get a wicked deal on a pair for base & clear but its still alot of money so I want to get it right for the clear gun in particular.